700 firing pin assembly

CodyB

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 28, 2013
Messages
169
Location
Great Basin
I recently replaced the firing pin and bolt shroud on an older 700 that had the J-lock with the PTG assembly. Since replacing I have noticed the cock on open is noticeably more heavy now when opening the bolt. Previously I could run the bolt with just a few fingers when the rifle was on bags, now I need to have one hand holding the rifle and the other operating the bolt. This is first time I have switched firing assemblies so not sure I did something incorrect on installation or if this is normal for the PTG assemblies.
 
OP
C

CodyB

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 28, 2013
Messages
169
Location
Great Basin
I did not think the headspace would change just by changing the firing pin assembly. Not sure if it matters but the much heavier bolt lift occurs on both an empty chamber and when there is a fired or unfired cartridge.
 

16Bore

WKR
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
3,018
Stronger spring and new metal against old. And no, the headspace isn’t going to change when you replace a shroud and firing pin.
 

LaHunter

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2013
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1,422
Location
N.E. LA
I think that bolt lift may be normal with PTG. I have a M700 receiver with the whole PTG bolt / firing pin assembly and the bolt lift on an empty chamber seems to take a little more effort. FWIW, my rifle was built by a reputable gun builder.
 
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CodyB

Lil-Rokslider
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May 28, 2013
Messages
169
Location
Great Basin
Is there a way to determine if the spring length is incorrect or binding? I’m guessing the issue would be a spring that is too long?
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2018
Messages
207
Location
North Pole, Alaska
It is 100 percent normal when replacing with a PT&G or any other aftermarket fire control system for the Rem 700’s. I’ve replaced at least 2 dozen using PT&G or Tubb Speed lock and they ALL have noticeable increased bolt lift requirement
 

Timnterra

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
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187
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Black Hills South Dakota
No one has mentioned it yet but you should grease the cocking piece threads and ramp on the bolt body. This will save wear and decrease perceived cocking effort.

This is the stuff I use for that and it works well and makes a noticeable difference.
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2017
Messages
1,938
Location
Oklahoma
Im looking at doing this to my 2004 700 lss 30/06 mountain rifle and noticed gre tan offers two.
Also doni need to buy a tool?
Option 1-New! GTR Fluted Steel Firing Pin Assembly, Satin Black. We have the advantage of working on rifles every day, and knowing how to improve firing pin components, including how to manufacture them with the machines at our control. Made by Gre'-Tan in house, with newly installed Swiss CNC's. Not by just copying a blueprint or OEM part, for someone that just wants to sell you something. You already have that in the rifle you purchased.
First is the aluminum Bolt Shroud. This is made with 7075-T6. Again made in house on our Swiss CNC's. We have bolts from the 1940's to present and were able to adjust the threads, bushing collar and height of the shroud flats to give the best fit in the industry. On average, we are .010 larger in the areas to take out the sloppy fit. We have a better fit of the cocking piece and firing pin to the shroud. Then we have them Type III hard coat anodized. All to give the most durable and consistent firing pin travel, shot to shot.
Second is the Fluted Steel Firing Pin. Made from pre-hardened 4140 steel. Again made in house with newly installed Swiss CNC's. Unlike cheaper pins that are constructed from two joined parts, my pin is crafted from a single piece of steel, resulting in a more durable, fail-safe design. The weight saving flutes shortens the lock time. The tip contour has the tradition fracture point removed and a radius machined to prevent the tip breaking off. Additionally, the spring fit to the shank is the best on the market, resulting in zero rub on the inside of the bolt body. There are two reasons for the spiral flutes. First is to identify if you purchased a GTR, not a counterfeit knock off. The second is that the flutes are milled in the direction of the spring as it uncoils during release. As a final process, we surface burnish the pins in ceramic media to give a slick surface and to edge radius/de-burr from fluting. This allows the pin to slide with lower friction within the bolt shroud and spring. The x-pin hole is chamfered to help in assembly.


Option 2-GTR's NEW GEN II Lite steel Firing Pin Assembly; Satin Black. Comes with our Chrome Silica Spring. Featuring our new Thread Assembly System that prevents the uncontrolled discharge of the firearm. Our thread assembly joins in front of the spring collar. Along with a Radius Tip contour design so you can NOW Dry fire practice and set triggers with our pin. Others having the joint under the spring, the thinned shank wall can break and cause a uncontrolled discharge. We have the advantage of working on rifles every day, and knowing how to manufacture firing pin components, including how to improve them with the machines at our control. Made by Gre'-Tan in house, with newly installed Swiss CNC's. Not by just copying a blueprint or OEM part for someone that just wants to sell you something. You already have that in your rifle.
The new pin, now made with 7075-T6 Aluminum, Shank & Preheat treated 4140 Steel tip. This newly designed coupling of the tip and shank will not have an uncontrolled discharge because of the joint failing. Other tip contour designs have a fracture point. Ours has a radius machined to prevent the tip from breaking off. This is now the safest, strongest, most reliable and has the fastest lock time on the market. The shank has the best spring fit and a centering radius at the front collar to center the spring, and does not snake, keeping it from rubbing on the inside of the bolt body. The spring has a smaller outside diameter than the front collar. The x-pin hole is chamfered to help in assembly.
With GTR's new Aluminum Bolt Shroud, the bolt shroud is made with 7075-T6. Again, made in house on our Swiss CNC's. We have bolts from the 1940's to present and were able to adjust the threads, bushing collar and height of the shroud flats to give the best fit in the industry. On average, we are .010 larger in the areas to take out the sloppy fit. We have the best fit of the cocking piece and firing pin to the shroud. Then we have them Type III hard coat anodized. All to give the most durable and consistent firing pin travel shot to shot.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2019
Messages
644
Location
Jennings Lodge, Oregon
Coopsdaddy - either one is fine. One is just a little lighter weight then the other. You don't need a tool but it sure makes it easier:) I ended up buying one of the tools for not much money, but I also changed out several just with a using a shoe string to pull the firing spring back enough to twist it to where you can unscrew the whole thing.
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2017
Messages
1,938
Location
Oklahoma
This was gregs response.
The fluted steel assembly if you're shooting from solid shooting
positions and you really don't take running shots.
If you do a lot of off hand or do take running shoots, the Lite steel
is the one you want.
So for all around i guess the lite would be better?
I also noticed david tubb has one as well?
 
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