Have some questions on stock geometry for building a 6 UM (recoil to be on par with a 6.5 Creedmoor shooting heavies). Rifle to be used from the prone shooting position predominately and never shot from a bench - field use only in the mountains hunting.
I have a relatively lightweight 300 win (cooper model 92) with a traditional shape sporter stock that I'm currently shooting from the prone position - the bottom of the rear of the stock (toe, I'll call it) has a pretty decent slope to it. If I change between modest preload and a very relaxed preload, I typically see around 1 moa shift in vertical at 100 yards.
I have another rifle (RPR) and the stock toe has no slope to it. I find that when shooting prone, minor crosshair elevation adjustment tweaks are difficult, seemingly due to the lack of slope. As I think about it more, it might be because I was using a leather rear bag and heavy sand during much of this time of frustration - difficult to squeeze to tweak elevation. I was fussing with the bipod height constantly and it's far from ideal for hunting situations, where time and stealth are of the essence. I have since swapped out the flat bottom factory stock to a magpul PRS light, which has a modest toe slope - probably along the lines of an EH1, or similar.
Hopefully that conveys my experiences and sets up my questions. I want a stock that will eliminate the vertical shifting I'm seeing with my 300 as much as possible (caused by sloped stock movement on the rear bag), but also still be practical for quick vertical adjustments in the field. I guess it boils down to are you able to easily make elevation tweaks to rifles with flat stock toe slopes and what rear bag would you use to do it? Keep in mind that the rear bag shouldn't be a boat anchor, as it will be carried hundreds of miles through the mountains over it's lifetime.
I'm also seeing new style stocks with "reversed" cheek combs, like the McMillan Mountain Tracker LR and Rokstock. For these stocks, the cheek comb is higher in the rear than in the front and they generally have a very flat toe slope. I think I'd like the flatter toe slope, but having the cheek comb reversed or not level seems odd to me. Thoughts on this? I don't feel like I've ever had issues with a stock punching me in the face under recoil with any gun.
Stocks I'm considering: MDT HNT26 chassis, adjustable McMillan ELR Hunter, McMillan Mountain Tracker LR, Manners EH1, Manners pro hunter adjustable folder, Manners long range hunter, etc. The folding option would come in handy at times, but don't absolutely need it. The folder HNT26 seems to weigh as much as some of the traditional stock models, or only saves a couple ounces - don't know if I would like its geometry as much as a traditional stock. I definitely think the short toe length of the HNT26 could be a pain for rear bag placement. Thoughts?
I suppose any of these options would work. Trying to make it as foolproof as possible for me and kids shooting the rifle. Ultimately I don't have a strong preference shooting my Model 92 or the RPR prone. Standing, I'd probably prefer the Model 92 for quick shots. Sometimes typing all this stuff up helps me come up with answers myself, as I'm forced to think through it all. How is the HNT26 shooting freehand? My RPR is a boat anchor and I've never attempted to shoot it freehand - trainer rifle or truck gun.
I have an NX8 4-32x50 that will live on the rifle. Think I need an adjustable cheek riser?
I appreciate any help. Thanks!
I have a relatively lightweight 300 win (cooper model 92) with a traditional shape sporter stock that I'm currently shooting from the prone position - the bottom of the rear of the stock (toe, I'll call it) has a pretty decent slope to it. If I change between modest preload and a very relaxed preload, I typically see around 1 moa shift in vertical at 100 yards.
I have another rifle (RPR) and the stock toe has no slope to it. I find that when shooting prone, minor crosshair elevation adjustment tweaks are difficult, seemingly due to the lack of slope. As I think about it more, it might be because I was using a leather rear bag and heavy sand during much of this time of frustration - difficult to squeeze to tweak elevation. I was fussing with the bipod height constantly and it's far from ideal for hunting situations, where time and stealth are of the essence. I have since swapped out the flat bottom factory stock to a magpul PRS light, which has a modest toe slope - probably along the lines of an EH1, or similar.
Hopefully that conveys my experiences and sets up my questions. I want a stock that will eliminate the vertical shifting I'm seeing with my 300 as much as possible (caused by sloped stock movement on the rear bag), but also still be practical for quick vertical adjustments in the field. I guess it boils down to are you able to easily make elevation tweaks to rifles with flat stock toe slopes and what rear bag would you use to do it? Keep in mind that the rear bag shouldn't be a boat anchor, as it will be carried hundreds of miles through the mountains over it's lifetime.
I'm also seeing new style stocks with "reversed" cheek combs, like the McMillan Mountain Tracker LR and Rokstock. For these stocks, the cheek comb is higher in the rear than in the front and they generally have a very flat toe slope. I think I'd like the flatter toe slope, but having the cheek comb reversed or not level seems odd to me. Thoughts on this? I don't feel like I've ever had issues with a stock punching me in the face under recoil with any gun.
Stocks I'm considering: MDT HNT26 chassis, adjustable McMillan ELR Hunter, McMillan Mountain Tracker LR, Manners EH1, Manners pro hunter adjustable folder, Manners long range hunter, etc. The folding option would come in handy at times, but don't absolutely need it. The folder HNT26 seems to weigh as much as some of the traditional stock models, or only saves a couple ounces - don't know if I would like its geometry as much as a traditional stock. I definitely think the short toe length of the HNT26 could be a pain for rear bag placement. Thoughts?
I suppose any of these options would work. Trying to make it as foolproof as possible for me and kids shooting the rifle. Ultimately I don't have a strong preference shooting my Model 92 or the RPR prone. Standing, I'd probably prefer the Model 92 for quick shots. Sometimes typing all this stuff up helps me come up with answers myself, as I'm forced to think through it all. How is the HNT26 shooting freehand? My RPR is a boat anchor and I've never attempted to shoot it freehand - trainer rifle or truck gun.
I have an NX8 4-32x50 that will live on the rifle. Think I need an adjustable cheek riser?
I appreciate any help. Thanks!
