Shot some 3 fletch IW vanes and 4 fletch max stealths with field points and broadheads at 60 yards last night and marked every shot. Then I overlaid the groups onto a clean target to separate out the IW and max stealth vanes. Shot 6 arrows 5x each (minus one or 2 apparently) and shot largely round robin with arrow numbers.
The basis for this is that I was consistently hitting left with BH and wanted to figure out if it was an arrow issue, fletching issue (I had generally considered the 2 fletchings to hit together when shot as part of a 3-4 shot group), or something different. What it appears is that overall the FP do hit pretty close and that at closer ranges I couldn't really separate the 2 effectively in any smaller group size. Plotted out the 4 fletch hit a bit lower at 60 (the difference is less at 50) and the 3 fletch hit a hair high and left.
FP Group
BH Group
4 Fletch overlaid
3 Fletch overlaid
Group sizes
At a glance there's really not much difference. It appears that each 3 fletch arrow grouped better with itself with the BH (there's almost 3 distinct groups for arrows 3, 4, & 5) and it appears that the 4 fletch group a hair better as a whole. The differences are small and while this is a decent number of shots it still probably borders on statistically insignificant so I'm hesitant to take too much away from it other than deciding which way I want to adjust my sight and rolling on.
I could call a few fliers in the groups but didn't cull any shots from the groups. For the latter half of this I was running to the target and then walking back to my bow (I did 4.5 miles walking/running over the evening through this sampling...) and I finished up a few minutes after sunset.
The one item that I did find interesting is with both fletchings the BH groups appear to be narrower horizontally but taller vertically. I'm guessing I make slightly more effort to center my housing in the peep with BH but am really not sure otherwise. Again with a sight adjustment I think either of these is a reasonable group for elk hunting where I really don't want to take a 60 yard shot anyways.
That depends on which vanes you're using for your 3-fletch and 4-fletch. If you choose the right vanes, your 4-fletch should shoot as good as your 3-fletch and vice versa. I shoot high profile 2" QS Speed Hunter vanes in a 3-fletch, and I shoot lower profile Q2i Fusion Xii 2.1" vanes in a four fletch. They both shoot very well and impact very similarly out to 80 yards. However, the lower profile Fusion Xii 2.1" vanes in a 3-fletch are much less forgiving and/or consistent with BH's than in a 4-fletch.Just wondering if anybody can tell substantial difference between arrows having 4 vanes vs 3? Seems like the 4 vanes are becoming more and more popular. Thanks!
Until you throw on BH's. Then it's easy to see the difference in flight, accuracy, and consistency between different vanes and how they're set up.None of us can shoot well enough for 3 or 4 fletch to make a difference in arrow flight.
Until you throw on BH's. Then it's easy to see the difference in flight, accuracy, and consistency between different vanes and how they're set up.
If you don't think vanes make a difference, then you haven't tried many different vanes. BH's make a difference, and using enough vane for enough drag to overcome the BH blades steering on the front of an arrow make a difference. You can/could see this easily by picking a specific BH and shooting it without vanes at all. Then put two vanes on and see what happens, then three, then four. At some point you'll have enough drag/vane to overcome the BH. Depending on which vanes you chose, that may be 3 vanes or it may be 4. Heck, some guys use 6 little tiny vanes to get the correct steering. I've never tried that, but I've tried four tiny vanes that were not enough with BH's. Choosing the right vanes and configuration is part of the arrow tuning process, regardless how well the bow is tuned. But the bow tune can change depending on what you're doing to the arrow as well.If you are seeing a significant difference between the two, it’s more likely that you need to spend more time on tuning the bow. Properly tuned, 3 vane, 4 vane, broadhead or field point should not make much difference at all
I generally agree with this. For me personally, I tried multiple different 4 fletch configurations and still do some with my 3 fletch. My hope was that 4 really small fletches actually would steer the same as my 3 fletch for a smaller cross sectional profile in the wind for out west. They didn't.. So I had to up the size a bit to something like what you've got. There seems to be a minimum height needed for broadheads. Iron Will's testing showed similar and so did DCA. Something like greater than .5" height and longer than 2". I shoot a 3 fletch 2.8" x .5" or 4 fletch 2-2.5" >.4".If you don't think vanes make a difference, then you haven't tried many different vanes. BH's make a difference, and using enough vane for enough drag to overcome the BH blades steering on the front of an arrow make a difference. You can/could see this easily by picking a specific BH and shooting it without vanes at all. Then put two vanes on and see what happens, then three, then four. At some point you'll have enough drag/vane to overcome the BH. Depending on which vanes you chose, that may be 3 vanes or it may be 4. Heck, some guys use 6 little tiny vanes to get the correct steering. I've never tried that, but I've tried four tiny vanes that were not enough with BH's. Choosing the right vanes and configuration is part of the arrow tuning process, regardless how well the bow is tuned. But the bow tune can change depending on what you're doing to the arrow as well.
"Properly tuned"......bare shafts should all stack together. But put a BH on those bare shafts and see what happens.
I generally agree with this. For me personally, I tried multiple different 4 fletch configurations and still do some with my 3 fletch. My hope was that 4 really small fletches actually would steer the same as my 3 fletch for a smaller cross sectional profile in the wind for out west. They didn't.. So I had to up the size a bit to something like what you've got. There seems to be a minimum height needed for broadheads. Iron Will's testing showed similar and so did DCA. Something like greater than .5" height and longer than 2". I shoot a 3 fletch 2.8" x .5" or 4 fletch 2-2.5" >.4".
For me personally, with many different broadhead configurations, 294 fps and out past 50 yards - I just can't say that 4 fletch had a substantial improvement. I shoot broadheads about every day at 50yds year round. That said, I screw a big unforgiving unvented TOA Solid XL on to tune with. Then I hunt with smaller profile heads. Once I've got that XL S flying at 50 I can't tell the difference in vanes as long as that minimum is met.
Now what has not been mentioned - which I think it the biggest gain for 4 fletch - is that you gain sight clearance for long range shots. This is why I typically have a 4 fletch around with a mechanical out west. For when that animal bounds off after I shot it and stops at 95 yds looking back at me. At that stage I think the most ethical thing to do is put another broadhead in it.
6 fletch makes no sense to me. One of these days I'll test 5 fletch in a small vane configuration as it would have a smaller side profile.