300 WM Live Load Development Thread

brn2hnt

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Feb 27, 2012
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394
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Treasure Valley, ID
Really like the live-hunt style threads, and thought I would go along with a live load development thread to chronicle load workup for my new 300 win mag by Hells Canyon Armory.

I am looking to built an accurate, precise load, but lack many tools commonly used by top reloaders (namely annealers and bushing dies) in the hopes that it might help someone searching for the same. Outside of the powder scale, virtually all of my equipment was a budget purchase, and so I think represents a pretty good “entry level” setup. I’ll lay out the objective, context, and what I have to work with, as if you don’t know where you’re headed, it is impossible to make an informed decision, and the context and givens help shed light on WHY certain decisions are made, your needs may be different, and thus would necessitate a different decision, but the logic behind why the decision was made would still be applicable.

Objective:
Accurate, reliable, and consistent hunting round that will deliver over 2,000 ft/lbs KE past 6” wind drift (4mph) range at 6,000 ft elevation.

Context:
Recently received my custom build 300 WM from Mike at Hells Canyon Armory, and want to document the load workup. Rifle is throated for 215 bergers, 26” barrel, 1 in 9.5” twist, with 4 port MBM brake. Primary functions will be elk, mule deer, and black bear. Roughly 50% elk, 40% deer, 10% other. Hunting elevations ranging from 5,000’ to 10,000’. Must perform well from 0-800 yds on game, as shots in typical terrain are usually under 200 or over 450.

Givens:
  • Chargemaster Scale
  • Lyman tumbler (corn cob)
  • RCBS single stage press
  • RCBS FL 300 WM Dies
  • Hornady Comparator adapter for calipers
  • Universal Decapping Die
  • Cheap Primer pocket cleaner
  • Cheap Case trimmer
  • RCBS Case lube and pad
  • RCBS Hand Priming tool
  • Chrony Alpha Chronograph
  • Federal Brass* (not required, but do have ~100 cases existing)
  • Federal 215M Primers
  • H1000 powder


Brass prep:

I had a bunch of fired 300wm brass from a pair of existing rifles, so I tumbled to clean, and full length re-sized to space off the belt to make sure they would fit, not knowing the dimensions of this new chamber. Trimmed all cases to within SAAMI spec and to square off the necks, the chamfered inside and out. Cleaned all primer pockets, then tumbled one last time for good measure.

After the final tumbling, I primed with Federal 215M primers, as there’s tons of recipes that use them, and I have nearly 1,000 of them.

For a starting load workup, I scoured the interwebs, finding lots of preferred loads from 74-77 grains of H1000 and the 215 bergers. I started with 73.5 grains, working up to 77.5 grains in .5gr increments. This was nine charges with 5 rounds each simply because I figured I would run into pressure by 77.5 grains and because I only had one 50 round case and 45 pieces of brass ready. Additionally, many other reloaders pointing to “typical” preferred charges being under 77.5 grains, I saw no need to work up higher.

Went to the range yesterday to test out all 9 charges. (100 yd range, shooting off cheapo harris bipod and rear bag) Fired one round from each charge to test for pressure signs first, however, even at 77.5 grains I never saw any signs of pressure. This is likely due to the extremely long COAL increasing case volume thus decreasing pressure. Needless to say, always work up from well below max loads.

After verifying safe pressures, I shot 9 4 shot groups and recorded velocities from my chronograph and measured group sizes. I got 2 great (for me) groups out of the 9 charges, One at ⅜” and one a ½”.

I will be testing these further, as the velocity data throughout the shooting session has seriously shattered any faith I have in the chrony. WIthin the 4 shots of the ½” group, my ES was over 250!

95127194_239238057395086_8732453018609385472_n.jpg

So, going forward, the plan is to test 6 new charges, the tight group charges an .2gr+/- for each of them. Shoot for groups again, even with the chrony’s questionable results, then shoot at much longer distance to verify true velocity.
 
Joined
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Boston Ma
Grab a magneetospeed sporter I heard they are 20% off their website right now. The bushing and competition dies are nice but the RCBS will do everything you need, cam over the sizing die a bit and it’ll bump the shoulder back. Maybe add Sinclair expander mandrel with and run it after you size. Group like that looks good, keep that run it over a good chrono and have fun man, that’s an awesome gun
 
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brn2hnt

WKR
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
394
Location
Treasure Valley, ID
Grab a magneetospeed sporter I heard they are 20% off their website right now. The bushing and competition dies are nice but the RCBS will do everything you need, cam over the sizing die a bit and it’ll bump the shoulder back. Maybe add Sinclair expander mandrel with and run it after you size. Group like that looks good, keep that run it over a good chrono and have fun man, that’s an awesome gun

Yeah, after firing brass in the rifle I'm loading for I just knock the shoulders back .002-.003".

Checked their site, looks full price to me, but didn't realize the sporter was as cheap as it is. May end up with one of those sooner rather than later. Really like the idea of not having to rig up a different contraption each time to make sure the chrony is lined up just so.
 

Wapiti1

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Sep 18, 2017
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Indiana
Any signs of that Federal brass being soft? I've had a couple of recent batches of it that were terrible. Primers actually fell out on the second loading with loads that were well under max pressure. Curious if you see the same thing.

Jeremy
 
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
9,527
I wouldn’t size it to head space off the belt just because it’s a different gun. Take one piece of brass and size it as if it was for the same gun it was previously fired in. If it chambers in new barrel with out resistance you can do the same with the rest of the brass. If it is tight, resize it in small increments until it chambers easily and then size the rest accordingly.

No reason to overwork brass if it isn’t necessary.
 
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brn2hnt

WKR
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
394
Location
Treasure Valley, ID
I wouldn’t size it to head space off the belt just because it’s a different gun. Take one piece of brass and size it as if it was for the same gun it was previously fired in. If it chambers in new barrel with out resistance you can do the same with the rest of the brass. If it is tight, resize it in small increments until it chambers easily and then size the rest accordingly.

No reason to overwork brass if it isn’t necessary.


About half of the pieces wouldn't fit at all. I kept trying different measurements, trimmed, and eventually landed on just resizing the whole way.
 
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brn2hnt

WKR
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
394
Location
Treasure Valley, ID
Any signs of that Federal brass being soft? I've had a couple of recent batches of it that were terrible. Primers actually fell out on the second loading with loads that were well under max pressure. Curious if you see the same thing.

Jeremy

*Knocks on wood*..... Not yet.

Though the primer pockets must be Yuge... I've never had primer pockets where seating a primer took my little hand priming tool all the way to the bottom.
 
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