300 win mag factory Load for elk / moose

[GKPrice]

Umm....Sciroccos, ELDx, Interbonds, Accubonds & CoreLokts are all cup & core, they're just bonded.

the BONDED part changes it .... (you know that)

 

[GKPrice]

Are you serious? C&C bullets have had a long go to be perfected. I've had more disappointments with the magical mono's and one a
Accubond than any of the cup and cores I've shot.

some details would help with your position ....

 

[belly-deep]

some details would help with your position ....

Proof is in the pudding.

 

[GKPrice]

just so all of you guys understand what I'm discussing here, Nosler etips (one of the best bullets on elk I've seen in action) and GMX are NOT "all copper" but are actually gilding metal that has been specifically engineered for expansion characteristics and lesser barrel fouling, they flat work and won't poison our kids and grandkids - Also, I don't believe the LRX is ALL copper, aren't they an alloy with some tungsten in them somewhere ? calling "cup and core" and "bonded" cup & core bullets "the same" is sort a like INCORRECT since the process of manufacturing each is like completely different, THAT'S THE POINT (if bonded wasn't a really good improvement nobody would do it) Each type has some sort of place in the scheme of things and it appears to me that when you get out beyond 500 yards or so (might be closer or further, who knows) is when the bullet's terminal characteristics start really mattering so I suppose this might make it a "long range" discussion - All I know is that 500 yards and closer, as long as I shoot well (that's ON ME) and I have dead animals to take care of using .30/180 Accubonds (I think, can't remember for sure, been eating lead for so long) from a good '06 - most all other experiences really aren't relevant comments to add - Now, it's my belief, living in Oregon (aka California North) and knowing a few staffers in the ODFW who've said they are studying NON lead bullets quirtly here, that we may be having that gift shoved down our throats so many of us might want to think about alternatives even while we're shooting our "whatever we shoot" at game - I could care less about the rude and ignorant "tin hat" comments because I'm old enough AND smart enough to understand what can happen - Rather than argue who's is better or not and why, maybe paying heed to all experiences would be more productive, that's why I keep good notes (and the main reason I even joined this forum in the first place) just a thought and I'll prob have a case of "red ass" for it but who cares ......

 

[Ryan Avery]

I pulled the trigger on a 300 win mag and now I am looking for some factory load options for elk and moose. Shots are going to be 400 yards and under. Nothing too exotic. I am not long range shooter or much of a rifle guy. Just want to find a good, reliable and reasonably available load that I can zero and shoot on a pretty limited basis. 20-40 rounds a year of practice and 1-2 in hunting if I get lucky.

Under 400 yards pretty much all big game bullets will work. I would buy the cheap ones and practice more. I've seen piles of elk killed with Coreloks and Nolser BT with good shot placement, We've lost elk from poor shot placement with Premium bullets. So personally, I would put more stock in practice over bullets type.

 

[robtattoo]

Under 400 yards pretty much all big game bullets will work. I would buy the cheap ones and practice more. I've seen piles of elk killed with Coreloks and Nolser BT with good shot placement, We've lost elk from poor shot placement with Premium bullets. So personally, I would put more stock in practice over bullets type.

But...but...Premium...gilding...solid...mono...GAAAAAAAARGH!!!!

 

[Desk Jockey]

Under 400 yards pretty much all big game bullets will work. I would buy the cheap ones and practice more. I've seen piles of elk killed with Coreloks and Nolser BT with good shot placement, We've lost elk from poor shot placement with Premium bullets. So personally, I would put more stock in practice over bullets type.

Fair point. What kind of groups are respectable at 400 with factory ammo? Putting this Gun together and getting it zeroed is my winter / spring project.

I am not a precision shooter guy so am looking for in the vitals pie plate type performance. I feel like I want to be within 5-6 inches at 400 under field conditions. So I want to try for tighter groups on the range.

 

[Beastmode]

Fair point. What kind of groups are respectable at 400 with factory ammo? Putting this Gun together and getting it zeroed is my winter / spring project.

I am not a precision shooter guy so am looking for in the vitals pie plate type performance. I feel like I want to be within 5-6 inches at 400 under field conditions. So I want to try for tighter groups on the range.

I would strive for under 4 inches. I would hope this is doable for you but 1 moa groups at that distance is sometimes difficult to obtain with a factory gun with factory ammo.

Some guys think that if they shoot a 1 moa group they should shoot that group at all distances. This isn't really the case unfortunately. There are a ton of variables that can come in to play. In my opinion these variables really show every 100 yards after 100 yards.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[mcseal2]

I reload and like that I can practice with 180gr Ballistic tips, and hunt with the 180gr Accubond. They will shoot into the same group from my rifle at 600yds with the same handload. I have killed plenty of game with the BT before the AB came out, but had a few times I wasn't happy with the penetration. I feel a 180gr bullet from a 300WM should exit a whitetail broadside or quartering no matter what it hits, and I didn't always get that with the BT. I did always get the deer, it wasn't a bullet failure just a bullet that was a bit to fragile in my opinion. I went to the Accubond as soon as it was invented and have nothing bad to say about it. It opens fast for quick energy transfer and the ones I have recovered have always had a good mushroom. They penetrated a lot of critter also if I recovered them. I like them.

No more volume than you are talking about shooting, I'd spend try the Nosler loadings with the 180gr Accubond or one of the other companies that load that bullet first. If a box of ammo costs an extra $30 and your only shooting a couple boxes a year, that's not that big an expense compared to the other parts of a hunting trip. I'll be taking a 300WM with 180gr Accubonds for elk next fall if I draw, and for moose in 2018.

 

[bbrown]

Always shot the Federal Premium 180gr Nosler Partitions in my 300 WM with good results but after good experiences with Underwood ammo in my 10mm I decided to give these a run and they shoot very well for me. Quality ammo that seems to be loaded a bit hotter than the other similar factory ammo I have tried and is usually a bit cheaper too. Sign up for the email list and they run free shipping deals pretty often if you spend $100+. Order 3-4 boxes and you will be set for a while.

300 Winchester Magnum 180 Grain Nosler AccuBond Spitzer Box of 20 - Underwood Ammo

If I ever burn through the stash of Nosler trophy grade I have for my .308 I will prolly switch over to Underwood for that as well.