.270 upgrade

[35WhelenAI]

A 1-10 twist and load 210 TSX bullets. Hunt anything in North America.
I’ve got a 700 in .270 so I’ve given this some thought.

 

[JFK]

Send it to Hart and have them rebarrel it in a 1:8 or 1:9 twist in 270. If it’s worked for you for the last decade it will continue to work and it’s got some history. No way in hell I’d get rid of a rifle like that.

 

[2five7]

7 Rem Mag is the logical cartridge based on what you are wanting. Provides a bump in power, will handle bullets in the 160-180 class, less recoil than the .300 magnums.

 

[Rifles And More]

If you go factory just get a 30-06 since you don't reload. Better yet, see what is in stock at the local and let that be your guide. Despite what we nit-pick about around here, it's not rocket surgery to get a solid factory rifle and go forth...

1700.00 is a bit steep for a rebarrel - you could do it on the cheap. It's been outlined above.

 

[darmento]

Send it to Hart and have them rebarrel it in a 1:8 or 1:9 twist in 270. If it’s worked for you for the last decade it will continue to work and it’s got some history. No way in hell I’d get rid of a rifle like that.

I am assuming Hart is a gunsmith. Do you have their phone number or what state they are in? Thx

 

[BAKPAKR]

I am assuming Hart is a gunsmith. Do you have their phone number or what state they are in? Thx

Their website address is https://www.hartbarrels.com/Default.asp. I just about sent a Remington 700 to them to have made into a 280 AI but then I found that Benchmark Barrels had the Remington 700 KS contour I wanted programmed in.

 

[wildwilderness]

You can send it to McGowans for a rebarrel as well for less than a new factory rifle.

https://mcgowenbarrel.com/

Or you just keep it as is, and buy a Tikka T3x in 30-06 and get more versatility

 

[Tack Driver]

I think a lot of the guys here really know their stuff, but aren’t picking up on your desire to avoid magnum-esque recoil. .280AI would be top of my list- in fact I’ll be starting a build as soon as funds allow. It’s a neat cartridge. I’ve spend several dozen hours researching, and for general hunting use 50-450 yards+ on game from pronghorn to elk the only things that compete with its manageable recoil, availability, high BC, and field capability in my mind are 7mm-08, 30-06, and the new 6.8 western. I’d personally wait a beat on the 6.8- these Gun companies have a nasty habit of dropping new cartridges, regardless of their Ballistic effectiveness, in just a couple years. If that were to happen you’d be stuck with minimal factory loads and the need to reload.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MeatMissile]

How many rounds do you have down the barrel? A 270 should have a useful life of 3k to 5k rounds if it’s not a belt-fed crew served machine gun.

I’d take the rifle apart and see if the stock has any signs of warpage. Sometimes wood (assuming it’s wood) can compress over time in the action area and you might have a pinched magazine box, or some other culprit related to bedding. Maybe relieve pressure on the barrel by floating the barrel. Also check to make sure the stock is well sealed from moisture before reassembly. Maybe it’s a good time to install some pillars and bed the action. A new stock can be a nice facelift as well.

Next, I’d remove the scope bases and clean it up. Check the screw holes to make sure the threads aren’t stripped. Look into your scope mounts to see if an upgrade might be in order. I use Talley fixed bases with reversible front, and low Talley screw-lock rings. I also use Warne Maxima rings and bases.

Inspect the crown for any dings or burrs. Then I’d clean the barrel down to bare steel and apply Dyna-Tel Bore Coat. You can have the exterior refinished as well. I have a few rifles that are cerakoted, which helps with the nasty weather on the west coast where I live.

Then, modernize your load. Powders like Reloader 26 can push 150gr bullets at 3000fps. That’s easily capable of elk at 400 and deer at 500+.

I bet there is some life left in that rifle.

 

[bonepoint]

This will allow you to shoot heavier, higher BC bullets out of the .270 Win and actually add a lot more horsepower to it. I have 3 loads that I use right now, 156gr Hammer Hunter@3200fps, 170EOL@3075fps and 175TGK@ 2925fps. The 156HH is crazy accurate sub 1/2 MOA at 300 and holds pretty good at 500. You also have the 150ABLR, 150AB, 170BT (new but ladder out to 3000fps), 140BD2 which is crazy BC plus more out there to choose from.

Those velocities are out of a 270 WIN?!

 

[darmento]

How many rounds do you have down the barrel? A 270 should have a useful life of 3k to 5k rounds if it’s not a belt-fed crew served machine gun.

I’d take the rifle apart and see if the stock has any signs of warpage. Sometimes wood (assuming it’s wood) can compress over time in the action area and you might have a pinched magazine box, or some other culprit related to bedding. Maybe relieve pressure on the barrel by floating the barrel. Also check to make sure the stock is well sealed from moisture before reassembly. Maybe it’s a good time to install some pillars and bed the action. A new stock can be a nice facelift as well.

Next, I’d remove the scope bases and clean it up. Check the screw holes to make sure the threads aren’t stripped. Look into your scope mounts to see if an upgrade might be in order. I use Talley fixed bases with reversible front, and low Talley screw-lock rings. I also use Warne Maxima rings and bases.

Inspect the crown for any dings or burrs. Then I’d clean the barrel down to bare steel and apply Dyna-Tel Bore Coat. You can have the exterior refinished as well. I have a few rifles that are cerakoted, which helps with the nasty weather on the west coast where I live.

Then, modernize your load. Powders like Reloader 26 can push 150gr bullets at 3000fps. That’s easily capable of elk at 400 and deer at 500+.

I bet there is some life left in that rifle.

Thanks for your input. Here is the deal regarding the inside of the barrel. I purchased a bore scope for the first time ever, and ran it down the barrel very slowly. Even though I had just finished the cleaning the gun with the proscribed process of using Montana Xtreme copper remover, followed by Butches Bore shine, etc. the barrel showed smudges or metal residue on the rifling, and some very mild pitting. I am guessing that somehow the barrel got some moisture in it in my basement, and the moisture damaged the metal somehow.

I am just guessing that once a barrel gets mild pitting or imperfections, it is no longer any good for long range hunting. I will reclean the gun, this time using the copper remover and letting it sit in the barrel for more than 15 minutes, and see if I can get some of the dark smudges and copper-looking residue out of the barrel. Maybe that will help. Thanks again for your input!!! I appreciate it.

 

[black dawg]

The best shooting rifle I have has a slightly pitted bore that fouls easily and is difficult to get clean. Happens to be a 270.....

Have used the 140 ballistic tip with really good results out to 500.

 

[darmento]

Thanks for the insight. Maybe my fixation on having a pristine barrel is a mistake. One question for you.... What do you find is the best way to clean your gun? I did all this research and bought Montana Extreme Copper Remover, Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner, Butch's Bore Shine, and even after leaving the copper remover in there for 15 minutes and then running a LOT of patches with Butch's through there, and then using the Montana Bore Conditioner, the inside of the barrel still had these dark "spots" in it. Maybe I just need to repeat this process numerous times.... Just curious about what process you use.....

 

[wildwilderness]

Thanks for your input. Here is the deal regarding the inside of the barrel. I purchased a bore scope for the first time ever, and ran it down the barrel very slowly. Even though I had just finished the cleaning the gun with the proscribed process of using Montana Xtreme copper remover, followed by Butches Bore shine, etc. the barrel showed smudges or metal residue on the rifling, and some very mild pitting. I am guessing that somehow the barrel got some moisture in it in my basement, and the moisture damaged the metal somehow.

I am just guessing that once a barrel gets mild pitting or imperfections, it is no longer any good for long range hunting. I will reclean the gun, this time using the copper remover and letting it sit in the barrel for more than 15 minutes, and see if I can get some of the dark smudges and copper-looking residue out of the barrel. Maybe that will help. Thanks again for your input!!! I appreciate it.

The only criteria for long range shooting is how well the rifle actually shoots, and your expected application.

If you want to hit a 10” plate at 1000 yds it should be grouping at less the 1” at 100.

Most rifles are better than the shooters . And the correct ammo is just as important as the rifle itself.

So what are your current groups?

 

[homers]

How's the current one shoot?

 

[black dawg]

Thanks for the insight. Maybe my fixation on having a pristine barrel is a mistake. One question for you.... What do you find is the best way to clean your gun? I did all this research and bought Montana Extreme Copper Remover, Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner, Butch's Bore Shine, and even after leaving the copper remover in there for 15 minutes and then running a LOT of patches with Butch's through there, and then using the Montana Bore Conditioner, the inside of the barrel still had these dark "spots" in it. Maybe I just need to repeat this process numerous times.... Just curious about what process you use.....

If it is actually fouled to the point that it has to be cleaned, any of the good copper cleaners work ok. IF it is fouled enough to need cleaning, you will want to alternate cleaners (copper...carbon) until clean and it can take awhile to actually get it all out. If you dont get it all out, groups can be inconsistent until several rounds are through.

I have found things to be more consistent if I just dont clean.....and have not for about 4 years now.

 

[Maverick1]

Lots of involved options being thrown around out here. As someone else noted, people here know their stuff.

A mirror finish on the inside of a barrel does not guarantee accuracy. As the poster noted above, it can be the opposite.

@darmento - how does the current rifle shoot? Given your stated shooting distance and game, have you thought about another 270? 270 Tikka (or similar) would accomplish what you desire, at likely a lower price point and just as accurate for your needs. Sometimes simpler is better.

 

[bigbuckdj]

I don’t know 1/10th of what all these guys know, but I am considering rebarreling my old 270wsm with a faster twist rate to take advantage of all these new fancy heavy for caliber bullets. It seems like all these new calibers aren’t doing much different, they are just being built with modern bullet technology in mind.

That being said, with rebarrel cost, you’ll probably be in it as much as a new tikka and it may or may not shoot just as well as the new tikka.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[B23]

Also, carbon deposits can sometimes 'look" like pitting and it will trick you into thinking your barrel is pitted when it's really just carbon. Carbon can be some of the hardest shit to get out of a barrel.

 

[B23]

If you'll always be shooting factory ammo you would probably be money ahead and likely shoot just as well with something like a off the shelf Tikka in 270 Win or whatever other cartridge you decide on.