243 Reloading Setup

[cjdewese]

Hey Guys, I have a buddy that has all of the reloading tools and said I am more than welcome to borrow anything I would need including any powder he currently has or any primers that he has as well. I am at the end of my factory ammo and would like to just bite the bullet and go down the rabbit hole of trying to find THE bullet I will shoot out of this gun moving forward and start to get into reloading some at the same time.

So here is where I am at and wanting to do.

1st of all, I need to purchase the 243/6MM dies, any suggestions on that front. I don't mind spending a little more or a lot more even if it truly will make a difference. I see 2 and 3 piece die sets along with individual components. What would you guys recommend for someone getting started.

As for components, I have some once shot factory brass from Winchester, Barnes and a few others that I can use but was thinking of just getting some new brass to start fresh. I have settled on the 95 grain LRX partitions from Barnes instead of the 80g TTSX. I picked the 1/8 tikka to be able to shoot some of the longer heavier copper bullets and the 95g LRX seems to be a good place to start. So I think I am settled there.

By buddy has 3-4 different types of powders, (not sure what all he has at the moment) I am sure I can find something there that will work, but any suggestions are nice as I can pick up some to add to the reloading components at his place.

I was looking at new Brass, I see Lapua as being recommended most, but those take large rifle primers and those seem to be tough to find right now. My buddy only has small rifle primers and it looks like Peterson offers some 243 brass in small primers. My question is, would you guys recommend getting Lapua brass and looking for large primers, or do you think the Peterson 243 is a good alternative with good life in the brass?

Last question, anyone have any info on where to get large primers. I have checked a few different sites and everything is out of stock right now.

Thanks for any input, trying to figure it all out has been a challenge but a fun one.

 

[drew23]

My only real input (I shoot a 1:10 with 85gr Sierra Game Kings) is on the brass front.

I bought Peterson SRP brass and it's been good so far. I bought the last box of 243 Win SRP they had and ended up buying a 100 count bag of 260 Rem SRP. I've mainly used the 260 Rem SRP so far and it's been great. 1 step sizing for me to 243 Win.

I think they planned to run more 243 this year and, they may have already ran it. It seems like quality brass to me.

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[Shootinsurveyor]

Dont mix and match brass. Get a fresh bag of 50 or 100 of whatever and run it. I ran Winchester in my 243 and it worked fine. I have since stepped up to Lapua brass in other cartridges and it is just better all the way around. You should be able to find some decent LRP. If you are looking to make really good ammo, you need to look at the best as the price per round isn't going to be make or break by a component cost. you have to shoot it all several reloads to get into any savings. I would get some H4350, good bullets, good brass, match primers and load up somewhere around 39grs and see what velocity and accuracy you get.

 

[Cubby]

I think often people get mixed up on all the hype of great brass, for me I've shot lots of the hornady brass and it worked great for me but I don't hotrod any of my rifles just mild reloads to get the job done. I'm getting 5-6 reloads on the same brass. I'm willing to bet that a good amount of reloaders out there can't shoot well enough to tell the difference in brass IMO. If you already have winchester just sort out 50-100 pieces and go to town.

 

[cjdewese]

I think often people get mixed up on all the hype of great brass, for me I've shot lots of the hornady brass and it worked great for me but I don't hotrod any of my rifles just mild reloads to get the job done. I'm getting 5-6 reloads on the same brass. I'm willing to bet that a good amount of reloaders out there can't shoot well enough to tell the difference in brass IMO. If you already have winchester just sort out 50-100 pieces and go to town.

This was kind of where I was leaning at with the brass at least to get a better understanding of the reloading process while I am doing it. Then when I feel the need to upgrade I can buy better brass later when needed.

 

[drew23]

I started with some range brass, then bought 100 Starline and liked it. I bought the Peterson SRP because I couldn't find LRP anywhere even remotely local and at a decent price. My brass selection was due more to the primer situation than an actual brass preference.

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[TaperPin]

I’d suggest regular old RCBS, Hornady, or Redding full length dies. It’s so hard to wear out or damage dies, even $20 used ones are a safe bet.

To find components in stock, use Shootingbot, but large primers are just not there.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

There are plenty of LRP available out there. Just go to AmmoSeek and look under components. I got several thousand White River and RUAG ones recently for decent 2024 prices.

There’s also absolutely nothing wrong with reloading your once-fired factory brass. Unless it is cracked or corroded, it will do the job just fine.

Some benchrest shooters will go to great lengths to control every possible variable, but for hunting at normal ranges, this is rarely necessary. With the right combination of shooter, rifle, bullet, and powder, you can get sub-MOA accuracy without worrying about which brand of brass you use. Just don’t assume that a load that works well with one brand of brass will work well with another. There are some differences in case volume between different brands. For that matter, don’t assume that components from different lots are identical. But, at least in my experience, the differences for normal loads are rarely significant.


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[Mulyhuntr]

108 eldm, h1000 or h4350, new lapua/starline/Peterson brass would be my starting point.

41.3 h4350 with the 108 in starline brass is a tack driver in my 1/8" twist tikka.

 

[cjdewese]

108 eldm, h1000 or h4350, new lapua/starline/Peterson brass would be my starting point.

41.3 h4350 with the 108 in starline brass is a tack driver in my 1/8" twist tikka.

Unfortunately in California so need to stay lead free which is why I am starting with the 95 grain LRX.

 

[Mulyhuntr]

Unfortunately in California so need to stay lead free which is why I am starting with the 95 grain LRX.

Me too but most of my hunting is out of state nowadays, so I haven't dabbled much with copper. My 3-4 attempts with copper bullets over the last 15 years has been frustrating.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Hornady custom grade FL die set, a new lot of Peterson brass (even SRP if that's what you have, the primer pockets will last longer), a Hodgdon's extreme powder like H4350, and a quality bullet should be all you need to get going. I suggest reading the Painless Load Development thread and using that method.

 

[EdP]

I like the Hornady Custom Grade FL dies. They are equal in quality to other good dies like RCBS, Wilson, Redding, etc. A micrometer bullet seat adjuster is a handy tool. All the major die mfgs offer them, most are cartridge specific. Hornady sells one that fits any of their die sets.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Unfortunately in California so need to stay lead free which is why I am starting with the 95 grain LRX.

My advice when developing loads for copper bullets is two fold:
1. Thoroughly clean your rifle bore between using copper and gilding metal bullets. I don't understand the exact science, but apparently the differential hardness of the different alloys can cause erratic results.
2. Pick a copper bullet that is the same length as the lead-core bullet you would normally use. This site is very helpful for picking bullets: https://jbmballistics.com/ballistics/lengths/lengths.shtml

For instance, my normal .243 load uses 100-grain Sierra GameKings (1.078). The length stabilizes well in my rifle. My copper bullet will be the Barnes 80-grain TTSX (1.013), since it is a little bit shorter and it was on sale. Your chosen 95-grain LRX is 1.209. I think that will work with your twist rate, but I figured I would explain how I choose new bullets.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

I always use the basic RCBS dies. I have never had issues with them.

If you purchase used dies, my only concern would be to make sure they weren't stored in a barn for a decade or something.

 

[A382DWDZQ]

@cjdewese just wanted to see if you have considered possibility of getting a new barrel with a custom throat and fast twist, maybe do an AI even. Just something to think about before spending on components and time.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

Unfortunately in California so need to stay lead free which is why I am starting with the 95 grain LRX.

You should look into Hammer bullets as well.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

I think often people get mixed up on all the hype of great brass, for me I've shot lots of the hornady brass and it worked great for me but I don't hotrod any of my rifles just mild reloads to get the job done. I'm getting 5-6 reloads on the same brass. I'm willing to bet that a good amount of reloaders out there can't shoot well enough to tell the difference in brass IMO. If you already have winchester just sort out 50-100 pieces and go to town.

Respectfully disagree. Try better brass and see if you still think the same. You should see way more loads out of premium brass unless you’re loading really hot and blowing primer pockets. I won’t run Hornady brass as I’m pretty sure it’s made from tin foil.

This was kind of where I was leaning at with the brass at least to get a better understanding of the reloading process while I am doing it. Then when I feel the need to upgrade I can buy better brass later when needed.

Yes, you can start with mixed brass to get you started. However, what are you trying to achieve by reloading vs. buying factory ammo? If it’s more precise ammo producing better groups, than mixed brass ISN’T the way to go. If you’re trying to save money by reloading, get out now.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

I definitely agree that you shouldn’t be reloading “to save money.” That might have been true at some point, if one assumed that your spare time was worth nothing. But I don’t think it’s been true for a while. It’s the most expensive way to save money that I know about.

As for the brass thing… I am not a high volume shooter, so when I purchase a new rifle, my preferred way to get brass is to purchase 200 rounds of factory ammo (usually the same brand in a couple of different bullet weights). I use that for sighting in the rifle, getting used to it, seeing what it likes, and general proficiency. I save all that brass and use it do or reloading. I count on being able to reload each one four times (being conservative). I keep components on hand with that assumption in mind. If I have the good fortune to shoot a thousand rounds through each of my rifles in the next 10 years, I’ll consider my life well spent.


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[Cubby]

Respectfully disagree. Try better brass and see if you still think the same. You should see way more loads out of premium brass unless you’re loading really hot and blowing primer pockets. I won’t run Hornady brass as I’m pretty sure it’s made from tin foil.

I have great success with hornady brass so I see no reason to change, and if it is made of tin foil I wish I could buy some of that tin foil off the shelf for when I'm smoking different meats LOL