2021 Hoyt

[Arctic Hunter]

Right on-I have a bunch of 300s, I’ll mess with them and see what the bow does. 28.5” draw @ 70/71 pounds, so the 260s are almost certainly overkill

I’m 28/70 with a ventum 33. 300 spine for me has been too stiff. Ended up shimming the cam to the right, and still get a slight right kick with a 27 1/4 ctc rampage 300 shaft, 100gr focus system and 100gr tip. That’s bare shafts at 20. Going to try adding some length to them today to see if it cleans it up any. Might have to go to a 340, and/or quit screwing around with so much FOC.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I’m 28/70 with a ventum 33. 300 spine for me has been too stiff. Ended up shimming the cam to the right, and still get a slight right kick with a 27 1/4 ctc rampage 300 shaft, 100gr focus system and 100gr tip. That’s bare shafts at 20. Going to try adding some length to them today to see if it cleans it up any. Might have to go to a 340, and/or quit screwing around with so much FOC.

What’s your total arrow weight and speed?

 

[Ike]

Just picked up the Ventum 30 and am absolutely loving it. Stupid quiet and a hell of an upgrade from my PowerMax. I plan to add a better stabilizer in the near future.

Draw: 29”
Let off: 85%
Draw Weight: 70LBS
Arrow: Black Eagle Rampage 250 Spine
Arrow Weight: 501 Grains
Velocity: 271 FPS
Sighting in...

 

[Arctic Hunter]

What’s your total arrow weight and speed?

470 grains. Not sure about the speed. I’m thinking about 270 or so. I’ll post once I can chronograph it.

 

[NXTZ]

So has anyone had to play with the shims on these bows? My ventum 33 will not stop throwing a bare shaft (and Broadheads) to the left. I’ve tried multiple spines/point weights, messed with my grip and draw length, you name it, can’t fix the issue. And my bareshfts are stacking at 20, so I know my form is at least consistent. Coming from a bowtech revolt with the deadlock, where I could get multiple different arrow/broadhead combos hitting behind the pin at 60, this is infuriating. Honestly if I can’t get it sorted with shims I’m likely to sell the Hoyt and go back to my bowtech. Love the ventum, but if my arrows won’t fly it’s dead weight for me

 

[jmez]

I would expect most all of them will have to be shimmed. I've not shot the new ones but have owned a lot of Hoyts. I've yet to have one that didn't need yoke tuning. Shimming just takes the place of twisting yokes.

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[Zac]

So has anyone had to play with the shims on these bows? My ventum 33 will not stop throwing a bare shaft (and Broadheads) to the left. I’ve tried multiple spines/point weights, messed with my grip and draw length, you name it, can’t fix the issue. And my bareshfts are stacking at 20, so I know my form is at least consistent. Coming from a bowtech revolt with the deadlock, where I could get multiple different arrow/broadhead combos hitting behind the pin at 60, this is infuriating. Honestly if I can’t get it sorted with shims I’m likely to sell the Hoyt and go back to my bowtech. Love the ventum, but if my arrows won’t fly it’s dead weight for me

When the shim kits come out you should be able to get it dialed in with those. I was pretty nervous about shimming as well but it ended up shooting my arrow build perfectly after about 100 shots. Mine also seemed to clean up when I tied my nocking point about as low as it could go with the Hamskea. I also tied soft knots above and below. I have no idea why that would help a lateral tear, but it bullet holed everything I threw at it after those adjustments. Literally the easiest bow I have ever set up.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

So has anyone had to play with the shims on these bows? My ventum 33 will not stop throwing a bare shaft (and Broadheads) to the left. I’ve tried multiple spines/point weights, messed with my grip and draw length, you name it, can’t fix the issue. And my bareshfts are stacking at 20, so I know my form is at least consistent. Coming from a bowtech revolt with the deadlock, where I could get multiple different arrow/broadhead combos hitting behind the pin at 60, this is infuriating. Honestly if I can’t get it sorted with shims I’m likely to sell the Hoyt and go back to my bowtech. Love the ventum, but if my arrows won’t fly it’s dead weight for me

I did it on mine to get rid of a right tear. It’s simple, but kind of a pain without the tool. Just pop the eclip off on the side that has the cushion under it. I used a smalle eye glass screw driver and kept my finger on it to keep it from flying off into oblivion (also worked good for moving the shims to where the needed to be upon reassembly). Run an Allen wrench in there as you pull the axle out. Remove the shims one at a time. Then rewind.

It’s definitely more complicated without the tool, but not too bad. But not so complicated that I’d go buy one. As much as I hate to admit it, top hats were much quicker and easier.

Just pull it and swap whichever end needed to move the cam over.

 

[NXTZ]

Guys, thanks so much for the feedback! Really helpful stuff. Arctic Hunter, you mentioned ONE side of the axle having a cushion under the e-clip? That’s how mine came, but there was a tiny gap between the spacers and limb (like maybe 1/64th). I was able to squeeze the limbs together and take up that play. So I figured on adding a cushion to the other side to take up the slack. Is that potentially the source of frustration/did I eff something up by doing that?

 

[Arctic Hunter]

Guys, thanks so much for the feedback! Really helpful stuff. Arctic Hunter, you mentioned ONE side of the axle having a cushion under the e-clip? That’s how mine came, but there was a tiny gap between the spacers and limb (like maybe 1/64th). I was able to squeeze the limbs together and take up that play. So I figured on adding a cushion to the other side to take up the slack. Is that potentially the source of frustration/did I eff something up by doing that?

That’s how mine came as well. I don’t remember seeing a gap, but then then again I didn’t look. The fit was snug enough that nothing fell out on its own when I pulled the axle.

I’d say a gap big enough to allow play in the cam would concern me enough to take it back to the shop and compare it to one hanging on the shelf.

 

[NXTZ]

Yeah I’ll definitely check with the shop-hopefully they have shims. There may still be another ventum on the rack I can compare it to. I did show the shop the gap, and they agreed that adding the e-clip cushion would help, but I’ll ask about it again next time I’m there. Again-hoping the shim kit would resolve the issues.

 

[Zac]

So has anyone had to play with the shims on these bows? My ventum 33 will not stop throwing a bare shaft (and Broadheads) to the left. I’ve tried multiple spines/point weights, messed with my grip and draw length, you name it, can’t fix the issue. And my bareshfts are stacking at 20, so I know my form is at least consistent. Coming from a bowtech revolt with the deadlock, where I could get multiple different arrow/broadhead combos hitting behind the pin at 60, this is infuriating. Honestly if I can’t get it sorted with shims I’m likely to sell the Hoyt and go back to my bowtech. Love the ventum, but if my arrows won’t fly it’s dead weight for me

The Bowtech is hands down a better tuning system. I just bought the Ventum because I wanted to shoot a Hoyt again.

 

[Billy Goat]

Can't remember if anyone posted this or not.

Pretty cool really.



Magnet to slap it to your bow press.
Short pin to push the axle out.
Retainers to insert the shims.

Be nice if Elite had made something similar when they were using the same system a few years ago.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

Can't remember if anyone posted this or not.

Pretty cool really.

View attachment 260302View attachment 260303

Magnet to slap it to your bow press.
Short pin to push the axle out.
Retainers to insert the shims.

Be nice if Elite had made something similar when they were using the same system a few years ago.

Definitely a useful tool if you’re going to be working on them. I nearly lost one of the shims yesterday. What are they costing?

 

[Billy Goat]

Definitely a useful tool if you’re going to be working on them. I nearly lost one of the shims yesterday. What are they costing?

Don't know a price. Sorry.

I'd guess $16, but that's a WAG.

 

[MountainZ]

So has anyone had to play with the shims on these bows? My ventum 33 will not stop throwing a bare shaft (and Broadheads) to the left. I’ve tried multiple spines/point weights, messed with my grip and draw length, you name it, can’t fix the issue. And my bareshfts are stacking at 20, so I know my form is at least consistent. Coming from a bowtech revolt with the deadlock, where I could get multiple different arrow/broadhead combos hitting behind the pin at 60, this is infuriating. Honestly if I can’t get it sorted with shims I’m likely to sell the Hoyt and go back to my bowtech. Love the ventum, but if my arrows won’t fly it’s dead weight for me

Just move your rest first while you're tuning. Once you get it tuned, if the rest is too far out from the center of the shelf, you can always shim and them move your rest to compensate and get it closer to center. While yoke tuning is really quick and easy when it's an option, there's really no reason not to just move your rest first with binary cams. If you get really far off of centershot spec, or start getting fletching contact, then you have to shim.

 

[jmez]

Disagree. Doesn't matter what cam type you have. Left/right tears are the result of poor horizontal nock travel.

Shimming or twisting yokes improves nock travel. With both you are straightening the nock travel to the center of the bow. Put the power stroke inline with the arrow when it is square to the bow.

Moving the rest simply lines up the arrow with poor nock travel.

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[Arctic Hunter]

Disagree. Doesn't matter what cam type you have. Left/right tears are the result of poor horizontal nock travel.

Shimming or twisting yokes improves nock travel. With both you are straightening the nock travel to the center of the bow. Put the power stroke inline with the arrow when it is square to the bow.

Moving the rest simply lines up the arrow with poor nock travel.

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I agree. Shimming is a little less precise than yokes, but both are the easiest way of getting the power stroke in line with what the arrow is doing.

 

[jmez]

Can't remember if anyone posted this or not.

Pretty cool really.

View attachment 260302View attachment 260303

Magnet to slap it to your bow press.
Short pin to push the axle out.
Retainers to insert the shims.

Be nice if Elite had made something similar when they were using the same system a few years ago.

You get that from a dealer? I'm guessing Hoyt isn't going to sell them to the public and your dealer will have to get you one.

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[MountainZ]

Disagree. Doesn't matter what cam type you have. Left/right tears are the result of poor horizontal nock travel.

Shimming or twisting yokes improves nock travel. With both you are straightening the nock travel to the center of the bow. Put the power stroke inline with the arrow when it is square to the bow.

Moving the rest simply lines up the arrow with poor nock travel.

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How, exactly, would moving the rest "line up the arrow with poor nock travel" if, but the very nature of the movement, it straightens out the nock travel?