2006 Toyota 4Runner electrical problems?

[Pyre]

These lights are on the dash:


This is the with the truck running:


This is with the truck off:


The truck was parked for nearly 9 months with the original 4 year old battery pulled and kept on a tender to prevent discharge. Once put back in, the truck has some serious malfunctions:

- The engine won’t respond to throttle inputs, just barely revs above idle.

-The shifter won’t shift out of park unless the manual override button is depressed in front of the shifter.

- The power windows won’t work.

-The radio won’t work

- The rear hatch won’t open

- The truck says it’s in 4 low and won’t respond to 4wd dial inputs.

- After having to jump the truck battery twice, the engine stalled both times which led to the assumption I needed a new battery and alternator.

.. Replaced the alternator and installed a new battery. Still no improvement, thoughts are that a rodent has chewed through some hidden wires but can’t be too sure.

Thoughts?

 

[dieselchessy]

Your tester looks to indicate the alternator isn't charging. Maybe corroded ground?
Shouldn’t be much between the alternator and the battery to check out.
Have you checked all the fuses? ALT fuse?

You could have it scanned for trouble codes, but that probably won’t pinpoint an electrical issue.

 

[lazydrifter]

We had a 2006 4Runner and one day we had all kinds of lights on our dash come on. I don't remember which ones but alot. The shifter wouldn't leave park without pushing the overide button. The brake light plunger switch under the brake pedal had went bad. We replaced that and everything went back to normal. Check that by pushing on your brake pedal and if the brake lights don't come on it's bad. But the rig was still running good so not sure on yours.

 

[Pyre]

Your tester looks to indicate the alternator isn't charging. Maybe corroded ground?
Shouldn’t be much between the alternator and the battery to check out.
Have you checked all the fuses? ALT fuse?

You could have it scanned for trouble codes, but that probably won’t pinpoint an electrical issue.

That’s what trips me up is how many times this would be that I’ve gotten a faulty new in box part from rock auto at this point. If another new in box part like this alternator was in fact DOA, I’m not gonna be thrilled. The connections are good from generally sleuthing the points. The fuses I’ve gotta test. Gonna throw in some dry gas too before I give it up to the shop down the street.

 

[dieselchessy]

Many auto parts stores can bench test an alternator and batteries.
You should start there before spending money on parts.

 

[duchntr]

My initial guess was alternator as well (had similar issues with my v6 '06 4R).

 

[TaperPin]

These lights are on the dash:
View attachment 645195

This is the with the truck running:
View attachment 645197

This is with the truck off:
View attachment 645196

The truck was parked for nearly 9 months with the original 4 year old battery pulled and kept on a tender to prevent discharge. Once put back in, the truck has some serious malfunctions:

- The engine won’t respond to throttle inputs, just barely revs above idle.

-The shifter won’t shift out of park unless the manual override button is depressed in front of the shifter.

- The power windows won’t work.

-The radio won’t work

- The rear hatch won’t open

- The truck says it’s in 4 low and won’t respond to 4wd dial inputs.

- After having to jump the truck battery twice, the engine stalled both times which led to the assumption I needed a new battery and alternator.

.. Replaced the alternator and installed a new battery. Still no improvement, thoughts are that a rodent has chewed through some hidden wires but can’t be too sure.

Thoughts?

You definitely need need something that will read codes and show live data. The engine is in limp mode for some reason and it sounds like there are a number of electrical issues. Once you have an idea what codes are set, and live data shows what switches are functioning and which are not, that gives you an idea of where to start electrical troubleshooting. You’ll need wiring diagrams and just start with easy things and often the hard ones are related and clear up when the simple things are figured out. Many problems are related to a lack of a good ground or power to a module. I don’t see how your problems could be solved without a multimeter, test light and wiring diagrams. I wouldn’t replace any more parts until you know they are actually broken, or it might make figuring out the real problems harder.

Pine Hollow, south main auto, and watch Wes work are good you tube channels to learn troubleshooting.

 

[Pyre]

Your tester looks to indicate the alternator isn't charging. Maybe corroded ground?
Shouldn’t be much between the alternator and the battery to check out.
Have you checked all the fuses? ALT fuse?

You could have it scanned for trouble codes, but that probably won’t pinpoint an electrical issue.

Thanks for the input gang, traced it to the dam near impossible to remove 140 amp alternator fuse that bolts in from the bottom of the fuse box which unbeknownst to me lifted out of the tray! You called it from the get go! Thank you!

 

[dieselchessy]

That’s good to hear. A wire harness chewed by mice could easily be more painful.

 

[bigmoose]

Glad you got it figured out. For more help on other issues you might want to check out this site https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/

 

[TaperPin]

Thanks for the input gang, traced it to the dam near impossible to remove 140 amp alternator fuse that bolts in from the bottom of the fuse box which unbeknownst to me lifted out of the tray! You called it from the get go! Thank you!

That’s awesome! Glad to hear it was an easy fix.