200 yard sight in

[Cahunter805]

Yep throw that lead sled away! Or use it as a gun rest for cleaning your rifles. Get some bags or a bipod and rear rest. Also as stated a trigger job would probably be very helpful.

 

[Mjm316]

All good advice above. I think the next step I would try is go home, have a whiskey or two, watch a couple of college football games and have a good nights rest.
THEN, I would go out the next day and shoot at 200 the very first thing and just see how you do. At least you could eliminate some factors. One other thing I would do is crank up your scope up and down a couple of times, shoot at 100 and see if it holds your zero.

Randy

Thanks Randy, this is almost exactly what I did! I hit the range this AM went out to 200 right away. First I checked action screws and scope mounts. All were good and tight. Then 6 shots. 4 out of 6 shots were less than 2" apart. I shot a few more times and certainly had a couple that ended up off 3-4" but I'm going with operator error.
As far as others mentioning the Lead sled, I basically set my rifle in mine loose and use it as a steady rest. No bags or weights on it at all and not strapped in.
Also, trigger DOES need some work. This for some reason is the only rifle I hunt with that hasn't been tweaked. It's a stock mid 1990s model 70 trigger.

 

[semperfidelis97]

When is the last time you gave your bore a good scrubbing with something to break up the copper fouling? It seems like a silly question, but you would be surprised to know how many people have never even thought about it. Copper fouling will cause your groups to be really erratic just as you described.

 

[Muley Buck]

Bags better than a sled?


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Yes bags are the way to go. Recoil needs to happen the same way in a hunting situation and at the range, to be consistent. Lead sleds have been proven over and over to screw up the harmonics of the rifle and POI. Unless you plan on lugging that heavy thing around while hunting I wouldn't touch it. Even then, as GKPrice said the recoil has to go somewhere. It will eventually ruin your bedding or something worse and destroy any potential for accuracy.

 

[GKPrice]

there has been a ton of information thrown at you, some with "advice" mixed in ..... your best attack plan is probably to, after that first whiskey, make a mental list of where to start (I'd say begin with the basics) Cleaning your barrel is sort of "subjective" as a lot of today's military snipers are now only cleaning copper from bores when and only when they lose accuracy (but that said, maybe your bore lost that accuracy due to copper fouling the day you moved from 100yds to 200yds (who's to say ?) AND keep in mind that we are all talking COPPER FOULING, different than CARBON fouling which needs to be cleaned out more often (hardened carbon is the pits to remove, learned that the hard way) it's been said that a lot more wear and tear gets done to barrels cleaning them too often than ever does from shooting - but like so many other things, COPPER fouling is different for every barrel, even 2 "identical" match grade barrels - another thing, as was said earlier don't just shoot at the black square or circle, a good practice that might have already been mentioned is to shoot at the tip of the corners of that black square, the point is to give yourself a finite "sharp finite" point of aim - shooting at a 2" circle is a sure recipe for 2" groups - that "90's Model 70 trigger" is the most simple and foolproof trigger ever designed IMO and a good trigger man should be able to give you a 2 1/2 - 3 lb break that works great for hunting, the trick on the bench is to get used to it's consistency AND the way YOU pull it - CONSISTENCY

 

[Dromsky]

I ditched the lead sled after having difficulty obtaining good cheekweld, what type of crosshairs does the scope have, the Nikon BDC circles give me trouble focusing on tight groups at yardage, a fine crosshair works best for me, ymmv.

 

[realunlucky]

just for fun would try using a bench rest target, the ones with the heavy black square. using it as an aimpoint by aligning it on one of the quadrants of the crosshairs, not putting the crosshairs in the middle of the box. this gives a better view of a target and easier to maintain said aim point for several shots. dont care where the group is just how tight is the group.

I have to do this also with a heavy duplex cross hair it makes for more consistent aiming point plus I can shoot all the corners of the box without need to walk up there and replace.

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