1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

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Random musings of a noob with a box of WWB.
37ft shooting one round per second or a bit quicker.

26g5 and 34g4 are stock triggers and I suck with them.

PM9 has a short trigger and a 3.5 lb kc battle axe (cheat code).

Haven't touched the fauxland special for years it had a dead battery I just replaced. So fawkin loud I need double ear pro. Has a minus connector, + return spring, and OP shoe. Arguably easier to shoot than the stacatto. Gives me a headache. Need to let the pawn shop turn it into ammo money.

C24 just a spring bend to break at 3.5-4lb. very inconsistent break. Tempted to kc this one too.

My old carry 642 wouldn't land on the cardboard 😂

Stacatto group isn't fair cause I always end up going way faster than the rest.

All got ten rounds. I've done similar tests a lot of times and these results are pretty typical for me.

26 is definitely the easiest to carry that's still okay ish to shoot quickly inside 5 yards. I know good shooters are better. I wonder how it would do with a gpt and some Dawson's.

1911 makes bad shooters look good.
 
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Random musings of a noob with a box of WWB.
~ 15 yards shooting one round per second or a bit quicker.

26g5 and 34g4 are stock triggers and I suck with them.

PM9 has a short trigger and a 3.5 lb kc battle axe (cheat code).

Haven't touched the fauxland special for years it had a dead battery I just replaced. So fawkin loud I need double ear pro. Has a minus connector, + return spring, and OP shoe. Arguably easier to shoot than the stacatto. Gives me a headache. Need to let the pawn shop turn it into ammo money.

C24 just a spring bend to break at 3.5-4lb. very inconsistent break. Tempted to kc this one too.

My old carry 642 wouldn't land on the cardboard 😂

Stacatto group isn't fair cause I always end up going way faster than the rest.

All got ten rounds. I've done similar tests a lot of times and these results are pretty typical for me.

26 is definitely the easiest to carry that's still okay ish to shoot quickly inside 5 yards. I know good shooters are better. I wonder how it would do with a gpt and some Dawson's.

1911 makes bad shooters look good.

At 15 yards, that's not what I'd call noob shooting, it's good stuff. You left handed, by any chance?

You're not alone on the Staccato trigger. Love my C24, but it's the "worst" 1911/2011 trigger I've come across, in terms of it having a lot of creep. But I'm also shooting a bit better with it than my DWXc and a couple of other high-cap 1911s. I thought strongly about gutting it and replacing the internals with the Atlas set meant for Staccatos, but held off after I realized it just wasn't negatively affecting my shooting. Also...I know Staccato is perfectly capable of tuning their triggers to glass-rod crisp breaks, yet, they didn't with the C24s - and they also have mastered 1911/2011 duty-grade reliability. It's probably safe to assume there's a connection, in the triggers being set up this way for maximum reliability and durability. So, between that, and shooting really well with it, I'm going to let it ride.

EDIT: One thing I did change in the C24 was the sear spring - original factory one had the heavy variant, and I swapped it out for a Cylinder & Slide lightweight one. Trigger's still got the same creep, but it's coming in right around 3ish pounds.
 
At 15 yards, that's not what I'd call noob shooting, it's good stuff. You left handed, by any chance?

You're not alone on the Staccato trigger. Love my C24, but it's the "worst" 1911/2011 trigger I've come across, in terms of it having a lot of creep. I swapped it out for a Cylinder & Slide lightweight one. Trigger's still got the same creep, but it's coming in right around 3ish pounds.
Ha thanks man - you should see me try to draw though. Just measured it off at 37ft so not 15 yards (stepping over a cattle hot wire altered my steps a bit) - pulled a Sunday bass on that one.

I don't know what spring was it mine but it was abnormally stiff trying to adjust it, unlike the half dozen or so other 1911s I've tinkered with.

My issue isn't the weight so much as the inconsistency - genuinely surprises me when it goes off sometimes while other times it requires a fair bit more force. And I don't want to have to screw with a $2500 gun but that's how it is I guess. I don't see myself winding up with a safe full of them.

I good trigger job would take it from good to great. The KC drop in is so great it kinda spoiled me for triggers.
 
Read through this thread and it got me interested in pistols again. I have an Sig Scorpion 1911 in 45 ACP which I haven’t shot in quite a while. Decided to add a 9mm into the mix. Davidsons had a great deal on a Springfield Prodigy 5” with green dot sight, a 20 round mag, and three 17 round mags for just a few dollars more than the bare pistol was going for a several local shops.

I put about 100 rounds through it yesterday and it ran without a hiccup. I definitely need practice 😂

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@Dobermann follow on my trip to the range with the six new mags.
Ran 180rds each mag ran x3

Two of the six did not drop completely free first round but didn't give issues the next two rounds.

All mags ran flawless in my Sig Tacops 1911 9mm.

I tried all of them at least once fully loaded slide in battery. I thought the pressure on the top round might cause it to nose dive and cause some feed issues. None presented.

Definitely wishing I would have bought more.
 
This custom was built around 1991 and has never been fired until today (long story)! The Nelson kit is pretty sweet and it is going to be a great trainer. Ran 200 rounds through it and as long as I kept my thumbs from dragging the slide it ran great.
 

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Even when I search the non-sale options (aka full line) and filter by 2011/1911 with no light, the search function returns 0 results. Do they not make one for a basic 1911?
They list no-light AIWB Velos for Staccatos, but not for 1911s. I've been meaning to write to them and ask if they'd fit 1911s, seeing as their other models are for either.

The next best option might be the LAS Concealment Shogun, recommended by Hilton Yam: https://lasconcealment.com/products/shogun

Not as much customisability as the Tenicor, though. My JM Custom Kydex is serviceable, and they're good people to deal with, but I think the Tenicor has some better features.
 
View attachment 1085914
Random musings of a noob with a box of WWB.
37ft shooting one round per second or a bit quicker.

26g5 and 34g4 are stock triggers and I suck with them.

PM9 has a short trigger and a 3.5 lb kc battle axe (cheat code).

Haven't touched the fauxland special for years it had a dead battery I just replaced. So fawkin loud I need double ear pro. Has a minus connector, + return spring, and OP shoe. Arguably easier to shoot than the stacatto. Gives me a headache. Need to let the pawn shop turn it into ammo money.

C24 just a spring bend to break at 3.5-4lb. very inconsistent break. Tempted to kc this one too.

My old carry 642 wouldn't land on the cardboard 😂

Stacatto group isn't fair cause I always end up going way faster than the rest.

All got ten rounds. I've done similar tests a lot of times and these results are pretty typical for me.

26 is definitely the easiest to carry that's still okay ish to shoot quickly inside 5 yards. I know good shooters are better. I wonder how it would do with a gpt and some Dawson's.

1911 makes bad shooters look good.

A bit late in asking, but how do you like the G36 in comparison to the 1911 style pistols?

The reason that I ask is the only time I have behind a Glock is with the wife's Gen2 G19 and while I am ok with it, it just doesn't fit my hand right. I know the newer Glocks have a different grip angle and replaceable backstraps, but I like to hear from people that have used both styles to get some info.

For reference, my winter carry gun is a Browning Hi-Power (Belgium built Argentine police model), but it is getting cranky in it's old age and probably needs some time with a good smith to tune it back up. My summer carry is a Kahr TP9.
 
Ya, this is basically all we do. 😃
Lol. It was originally built to be exported, but that never happened. It is actually a wildcat 40 Centimeter, as the 40 cal craze was just kicking off. As far as I can tell it is close to the 40 S&W in case length but I've never been brave enough to try one in it. Now that it has been fired I may pick up some used brass and try a couple super light handloads in it.
It was a high dollar custom back then and the craftsmanship is excellent.
 
Lol. It was originally built to be exported, but that never happened. It is actually a wildcat 40 Centimeter, as the 40 cal craze was just kicking off. As far as I can tell it is close to the 40 S&W in case length but I've never been brave enough to try one in it. Now that it has been fired I may pick up some used brass and try a couple super light handloads in it.
It was a high dollar custom back then and the craftsmanship is excellent.

That gun is a pristine time capsule, and very cool to see.

On the chambering, if you have any original casings you can just measure overall length of the casing - if it matches with 40 S&W, you're good to go. Another option may be for a gunsmith to either manually check for chamber length and headspace by gradually trimming down a 10mm casing, or to cast the chamber with Cerrosafe, to give you some aspects of chamber dimensions.

The main issue you're dealing with is headspacing - the gun needs to lock up fully. A slightly long casing could still allow the gun to fire, but without the locking lugs fully engaged. That can result in a ka-boom, blowing the mag out the bottom and possibly damage the gun and you. 40 S&W is one round in particular you don't want that to happen with. I saw this happen in the 1990s, so I would strongly recommend not testing your luck blind with a factory round.

If the wildcat chamber is a bit short, a good smith can simply ream out the chamber with a 40 S&W reamer. If it's a bit longer than 40 S&W, there shouldn't be a problem in reaming it out to 10mm Auto. That would also probably require a bit of re-tuning for that cartridge though, in the recoil and hammer springs, and possibly a sharper-radiused firing pin stop. If you go this route, try to find a custom pistol-smith familiar with 10mm 1911s, as a lot of the early custom ones had a tendency to beat themselves to death without that proper tuning.

Enjoyed seeing that gun, it definitely has an interesting story behind it.
 
They list no-light AIWB Velos for Staccatos, but not for 1911s. I've been meaning to write to them and ask if they'd fit 1911s, seeing as their other models are for either.

The next best option might be the LAS Concealment Shogun, recommended by Hilton Yam: https://lasconcealment.com/products/shogun

Not as much customisability as the Tenicor, though. My JM Custom Kydex is serviceable, and they're good people to deal with, but I think the Tenicor has some better features.
From Tenicor today:
 

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