1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

Thanks. I'd been using regular gun oil
Most gun oils are not much of a lubricant, or really that good for corrosion either.
Some of the oils used for modern fishing reels are amazing with their anti friction and corrosion properties.
Okuma is the brand I have been using.
For slide rails I would be mixing it 1 to 1 with a good heavy weight motor oil because it really doesn’t get cold in NZ
 
Well I’ve gone and putzed it up now. Just bid on a STI single stack and won. Dog caught the car now let’s see how it does compared to my glocks.
Any chance of photos?

There's a single-stack STI down here that I've been salivating after so much I have permanent stains on all of my shirts ...
 
Thanks again @RockAndSage and @Castle Rock - looks like TW25B is on back order here and Okuma is available locally. Also found some old high-performance synthetic lightweight grease in the shed from my mountain biking days, so might give that a go too ...

G96 Liquid Gun Grease is also available here ... anyone tried that?

And re-reading some of Form's posts, I'm tempted to try olive oil or avocado oil ... while I love the smell of G96 oil so much I'm tempted to use it as a beard oil, I'm pretty sure it's slowly killing me ...
 
Any chance of photos?

There's a single-stack STI down here that I've been salivating after so much I have permanent stains on all of my shirts ...
Waiting on the shop to ship it. Bought off gun makes me broker. which I swore I would never do again. I said that about certain women in college. Yeah that lasted until the following Thursday night.
Clearly used from their pics. But I figure I would take a chance. It is a Guardian model. We will see if I shoot it better than the glocks and p365. I’ll load them once it arrives
 
This isn't uncommon in either rougher-machined guns, or really tight guns, including some done by top gunsmiths. It's a bit of a bell-curve that way, with the quality on either end showing that behavior. It's generally related to tight locking-lug lockup and the back of the barrel hood pressing against the breach-face, the friction from the bottom of the firing-pin stop where its radius is in contact with the hammer, and where the disconnector first contacts the bottom of the breach-face on the forward stroke of the slide. Stutters and the slide slowing down are often alleviated with wear and/or really good lubrication in these places.

If you can secure a lightweight grease in NZ, those are 3 spots that benefit a great deal from it being applied to them. TW-25B or cherry balmz are the best I've tried. You want it about the consistency of a lotion, so a #0 grease. You can also cut down a heavier #2 lithium-complex automotive grease by adding oil and stirring really well, to get it down to that consistency. Only thing to watch out for with that is if you're in really cold weather, to use a 0W-something oil, but in most climates you're good-to-go with whatever motor oil you're using in your vehicle. That same grease applied to all your friction surfaces will make it feel like a different gun.
Thanks again for this. If I'm reading the parts diagrams right, it's when the slide returns over the disconnector that it catches the most. Switching from gun oil to a slightly thicker lube has helped smooth things out overall, but this catching is mechanical. Nowhere near as pronounced on my Bul as on the Tisas. (And the lube only just made the Bul feel even better than it did before, while the Tisas is now better, but not as smooth as what the Bul was previously. FWIW.)
 
Thanks again for this. If I'm reading the parts diagrams right, it's when the slide returns over the disconnector that it catches the most. Switching from gun oil to a slightly thicker lube has helped smooth things out overall, but this catching is mechanical. Nowhere near as pronounced on my Bul as on the Tisas. (And the lube only just made the Bul feel even better than it did before, while the Tisas is now better, but not as smooth as what the Bul was previously. FWIW.)

Hey, you're welcome, glad it was helpful. One of the many things a good 1911 smith will often do, is to mill away that 90-degree angle where the disconnector hits the bottom of the breechface, and turn it into a gentle slope. Depending on the area/smith, it'll be referred to as either a disconnector ramp, or a Marvel cut.
 
How about everyone's go to factory ammo these days?

Seems like since covid consistency of a lot of go to ammo has become unpredictable. I use to have good luck with the magtech and the federal nato. Quality has gone downhill.

What are you guys using/recommending for factory practice ammo? 124/147 preferred.
 
How about everyone's go to factory ammo these days?

Seems like since covid consistency of a lot of go to ammo has become unpredictable. I use to have good luck with the magtech and the federal nato. Quality has gone downhill.

What are you guys using/recommending for factory practice ammo? 124/147 preferred.
Blazer has run just fine for me so far.
 
How about everyone's go to factory ammo these days?

Seems like since covid consistency of a lot of go to ammo has become unpredictable. I use to have good luck with the magtech and the federal nato. Quality has gone downhill.

What are you guys using/recommending for factory practice ammo? 124/147 preferred.

Haven't needed to run new factory ammo in quite awhile for practice - just getting reman ammo as cheap as possible. Depending on the day, promo, etc, Miwall, Southern Munitions, Ammunition Depot's Sportsman's Select end up being the cheapest, delivered. Would love to find cheaper, but those ones seem to always end up being the best bottom-line value.
 
I run 124gr for whatever reason. Learned my lesson on the reman ammo, so no more of that crap for me. I run whatever is cheapest blazer,magtech,ammo inc, federal,wolf etc.
 
Learned my lesson on the reman ammo, so no more of that crap for me.

I'm hesitant on reman rifle ammo, but pistol has been excellent. At most, maybe 1 round in a 1000 has been a bit oversized and didn't chamber well, no problems beyond that. What happened with you in reman pistol ammo to turn you off to it?
 
What happened with you in reman pistol ammo to turn you off to it?

Bought 1k rounds of this trash

I'm slowly burning it up. But you get a round every mag or so that's maybe a bit long or something. It'll almost chamber. Has failed in 2 M&P's, a shield, CZ P01, and my prodigy.

There is not enough savings to deal with that kinda BS. So I'll happily spend a bit more for factory ammo, until I decide to stop being lazy and load for 9mm myself.
 
Bought 1k rounds of this trash

I'm slowly burning it up. But you get a round every mag or so that's maybe a bit long or something. It'll almost chamber. Has failed in 2 M&P's, a shield, CZ P01, and my prodigy.

There is not enough savings to deal with that kinda BS. So I'll happily spend a bit more for factory ammo, until I decide to stop being lazy and load for 9mm myself.

That's good to know, I'll stay away from that option.
 
9mm 1911’s are less tolerant of crap ammo if utter reliability is required. For just blasting- Blaser brass or whatever. For actual training, M882 Nato surplus, or Winchester M1152.
 
How about everyone's go to factory ammo these days?

Seems like since covid consistency of a lot of go to ammo has become unpredictable. I use to have good luck with the magtech and the federal nato. Quality has gone downhill.

What are you guys using/recommending for factory practice ammo? 124/147 preferred.
Blazer brass or Fiochhi.

Ben Stoeger says he's also had good performance from PMC.
 
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