1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

[khuber84]

Picked up a GP Arms Patriot, got the ported barrel plus threaded barrel for supressor use. Installed a holosun comp optic. Will be taking it to the range here in a week or so for maiden voyage. Craftsmanship on this thing is top notch!

 

[Formidilosus]

Just picked up my tisas 1911 B9 carry and it feels great. I did buy 2 meg-gar mags that everyone recommends and it seems they do not fit in my model the slide won’t shut.

Slide won’t close with an empty mag? Of so, the slide release can be very tight when the mag is empty.

 

[Bc45]

Yeah it was just super tight with an empty mag. The meg-gar and factory mags both work with feeding rounds through them. Also changed out the extractor while I was messing around. Going to shoot 200 rounds through it next and see how it goes. This is my first pistol so learning lots through this process.

 

[Bc45]

First range day with my Tisas and got to put 200 rounds down it. I used cheap Winchester 115 grain FMJs for all of it and overall it fed good from slow shooting to dumping 10 rounds as fast I could. I changed out the extractor for a Wilson combat extractor. I also used the factory 2 mags and 2 Mag-gar mags.

I had one failure to extract in the mag-gar mag. I did the test on the extractor before I shot with an empty case to test the tightness of the extractor and it was good. Could this failure to feed be a cheap ammo issue or still need to tweak the extractor more?

My last issue I had happen 3 times was my slide not locking back after finishing the magazine is this normal to not have it happen 100% of the time?

 

[B_Reynolds_AK]

Picked up a GP Arms Patriot, got the ported barrel plus threaded barrel for supressor use. Installed a holosun comp optic. Will be taking it to the range here in a week or so for maiden voyage. Craftsmanship on this thing is top notch!
View attachment 940471

The 3.1" Forza looks like a sweet little 2011. Let us know your thoughts on the Patriot for sure. If and when my 365 Legion sells. I'll be looking at getting a compact 2011. Between the CS and GP Forza at the moment.

 

[RockAndSage]

I had one failure to extract in the mag-gar mag. I did the test on the extractor before I shot with an empty case to test the tightness of the extractor and it was good. Could this failure to feed be a cheap ammo issue or still need to tweak the extractor more?

My last issue I had happen 3 times was my slide not locking back after finishing the magazine is this normal to not have it happen 100% of the time?

Diagnosing malfunctions is a bit like diagnosing a car that's not working - always start with the basics and fundamentals, before moving on to more complicated and less-likely issues.

More often than not, Failures to Feed are an issue of slide velocity. Slides don't go fast enough if 1) the friction surfaces aren't lubricated sufficiently, or 2) if your thumb is riding the slide a bit. So, how well is the gun lubricated, and was it cleaned of its shipping film before shooting? What was it lubricated with, where placed, and how much?

With FTFs, sometimes a new 1911 will also have fewer as the gun gets broken in and the friction surfaces smooth out a bit. But those problems go away with good lubrication faster. A new recoil spring, combined with lightweight ammo can also keep the slide from going back fast enough for awhile, until things break in - and also clears up with good lubrication and break-in time, as well as hotter ammo.

Regarding the slide not locking back, that can also relate to the slide not going back fast enough, as well as mag-related issues. Does that problem come up with every mag, just the Mec-Gars, or just 1 Mec-Gar specifically? This is why it's important to always number your mags. Also, some of the more modern ways guys grip a handgun can have their thumb or hand resting on the slide-lock, preventing it from moving up. So, double-check that.

With the Failure to Extract, 1 example of that out of 200 rounds on a new 1911 isn't uncommon. Something to watch out for, for sure, but not enough examples to suggest tuning anything yet, especially if you did the empty-case tension check and it looked good. Just to be sure we're using the same language - the casing got stuck inside the chamber and the slide still moved back, with the extractor jumping the cartridge rim, yes?

 

[Bc45]

Diagnosing malfunctions is a bit like diagnosing a car that's not working - always start with the basics and fundamentals, before moving on to more complicated and less-likely issues.

More often than not, Failures to Feed are an issue of slide velocity. Slides don't go fast enough if 1) the friction surfaces aren't lubricated sufficiently, or 2) if your thumb is riding the slide a bit. So, how well is the gun lubricated, and was it cleaned of its shipping film before shooting? What was it lubricated with, where placed, and how much?

With FTFs, sometimes a new 1911 will also have fewer as the gun gets broken in and the friction surfaces smooth out a bit. But those problems go away with good lubrication faster. A new recoil spring, combined with lightweight ammo can also keep the slide from going back fast enough for awhile, until things break in - and also clears up with good lubrication and break-in time, as well as hotter ammo.

Regarding the slide not locking back, that can also relate to the slide not going back fast enough, as well as mag-related issues. Does that problem come up with every mag, just the Mec-Gars, or just 1 Mec-Gar specifically? This is why it's important to always number your mags. Also, some of the more modern ways guys grip a handgun can have their thumb or hand resting on the slide-lock, preventing it from moving up. So, double-check that.

With the Failure to Extract, 1 example of that out of 200 rounds on a new 1911 isn't uncommon. Something to watch out for, for sure, but not enough examples to suggest tuning anything yet, especially if you did the empty-case tension check and it looked good. Just to be sure we're using the same language - the casing got stuck inside the chamber and the slide still moved back, with the extractor jumping the cartridge rim, yes?

Thanks for all the info I definitely got more I need to do and dive into. I didn’t lubricant anything I just changed the extractor and shot. Most any gun oils work good for lubricants? Also I know there’s only certain parts of the slide to lube, is there a good video or photo for that?

It jammed with 1 meg-gar mag so don’t have enough info on the others if it’s going to happen so I’ll number my mags and wait to see if it happens again.

My grip could also be a factor. This is my first pistol so learning that as we go too.

Your last question-the empty case extracted, but the new round got caught in the slide like seen in the photo.

 

[khuber84]

The 3.1" Forza looks like a sweet little 2011. Let us know your thoughts on the Patriot for sure. If and when my 365 Legion sells. I'll be looking at getting a compact 2011. Between the CS and GP Forza at the moment.

Forza gets glowing reviews from all accounts I've read, price is more palatable than the CS too.

 

[RockAndSage]

Your last question-the empty case extracted, but the new round got caught in the slide like seen in the photo.

That's more of a failure to feed, than failure to extract - best guess is the slide wasn't going back fast enough, and maybe short-stroked a little.

Most any gun oils work good for lubricants?

No, not really. The higher quality the gun, the less lube-sensitive they tend to be, but almost any motor oil will work better than any gun oil, especially given the additives motor oils contain. MilSpec CLP is one of the worst - it's just way too light, and burns off way too quickly. Some of the better gun oils are Slip 2000 or Lucas' oils, and Wilson Combat's. What works even better is a really lightweight grease, if you can find it. TW-25b, cherry balmz, or geissele's go-juice are all good. Any heavier than those and it's too thick for guns to be max reliable.

 

[Dobermann]

Also I know there’s only certain parts of the slide to lube, is there a good video or photo for that?

Here's some starting points. Not recommending any of these; just what I found:

Brownells' take:

Colt's take:

Alchemy's take:

 

[Bc45]

Got some more rounds down the tisas 1911 this evening. No failures and really enjoying shooting it. I am interested in changing out the sights. From what I’ve seen a big u notch black rear and big fiber optic dot seems like a go too. What brands are a good recommendation and when it comes to size what are most people doing as well?

 

[Formidilosus]

Got some more rounds down the tisas 1911 this evening. No failures and really enjoying shooting it. I am interested in changing out the sights. From what I’ve seen a big u notch black rear and big fiber optic dot seems like a go too. What brands are a good recommendation and when it comes to size what are most people doing as well?

I don’t prefer, and would not suggest a U notch rear sight.

Dawson Precision black rear and FO fronts are about the best overall combo available.

 

[Bc45]

I don’t prefer, and would not suggest a U notch rear sight.

Dawson Precision black rear and FO fronts are about the best overall combo available.

When it comes to height and size what do you recommend?

I noticed on there website it has a guide calculation does that work well?

 

[Formidilosus]

When it comes to height and size what do you recommend?

I noticed on there website it has a guide calculation does that work well?

Yep- buy what they recommend, then you can shoot it, see if there is an offset, call them and they will send you a corrected height front sight.

 

[Bc45]

I don’t prefer, and would not suggest a U notch rear sight.

Dawson Precision black rear and FO fronts are about the best overall combo available.

Thanks I’ll give them a try. This the one your talking about?

 

[Formidilosus]

Thanks I’ll give them a try. This the one your talking about?

That’s the combo. I prefer a .100 or max a .115” wide front. But, I lean towards speed precision.

 

[Sandstrom]

Threads like this make it hard to save money! I was looking at two different Tisas double stack 9’s. One has the traditional bushing set up for, the other has the bull barrel similar to the staccato. Is there any reason to pic one over the other? They are both roughly the same price.

 

[Reddish]

Threads like this make it hard to save money! I was looking at two different Tisas double stack 9’s. One has the traditional bushing set up for, the other has the bull barrel similar to the staccato. Is there any reason to pic one over the other? They are both roughly the same price.

In theory if you shoot it enough to wear out a bushing, you can easily replace the bushing. Or fit the bushing for more accuracy. Whereas a bull barrel if you wear the slide out, you’ll have to have it machined for a bushing or retire it.

 

[alpine_troop]

The allure of the 1911 is strong - finally succumbed and joined the club. I decided my first one ought to be classically styled and in .45 ACP:
Springfield Armory Loaded Government 5”
Swapped to a G.I. recoil spring plug, VZ grips, and added the Stan Chen SI magwell. A stack of Wilson Combat mags and a case of 230 grain ball. Runs great.

Biggest smile from a new gun…probably ever.

 

[Sandstrom]

In theory if you shoot it enough to wear out a bushing, you can easily replace the bushing. Or fit the bushing for more accuracy. Whereas a bull barrel if you wear the slide out, you’ll have to have it machined for a bushing or retire it.

Is there any benefit of one vs the other in “shootability”?