100 yard zero or 200 yard zero for M.O.A.

[clybnntt14]

Here we go
I zero dialing scopes at 100.
- easier to exactly shoot and check zero, no wind inputs,.easier to find range etc.
- you gain nothing zeroing at 200 except moving your zero stop to that point. You gain exactly zero scope travel or anything doing so.
- when I'm actively walking and hunting a tailor my zero to the terrain. Open country mulies, dial to 300.
-Brush county bull tracking, leave it at 100.
-If you want to do a max point blank range zero on your scope , just figure out what that is and dial to that for walking around. If long shots, dial accordingly.

That's a good idea about dialing the yards to the range. And that's what I kind of thought that I wouldn't really be gaining anything by zeroing at 100 or 200. And thanks for the input.

 

[clybnntt14]

I was going to say trying searching that topic but don't. It's way more confusing.

lol,

Here we go
I zero dialing scopes at 100.
- easier to exactly shoot and check zero, no wind inputs,.easier to find range etc.
- you gain nothing zeroing at 200 except moving your zero stop to that point. You gain exactly zero scope travel or anything doing so.
- when I'm actively walking and hunting a tailor my zero to the terrain. Open country mulies, dial to 300.
-Brush county bull tracking, leave it at 100.
-If you want to do a max point blank range zero on your scope , just figure out what that is and dial to that for walking around. If long shots, dial accordingly.

I think it really depends on your style of hunting. I’ve done both, but I’ve settled on a 200 yd zero. I think if you’re hunting the plains or wide open areas where you’re just about always dialing and you have ample time to set up, 100 yd zero works great. But if you’re doing a mix of timber hunting/open country hunting, 200yd is the way to go. I consider anything from 0-300 “close” I like to be able to pull up, point and shoot. Last year, I was still on 100 yd zero, and I had an antelope pop out at 330, and the drop at that range with 100 zero was just too large for an accurate holdover, so I had to pull out the range finder, dial up and then try to shoot, and I lost the opportunity. This year the same thing happened but I had a 200 zero, at that range, it was just a 6” hold and I got it done.
In the end, I think both ways work, it just depends on your style of hunting and what works best for you.

Like most things, it depends. A few years ago I spent 80% of my time hunting bean fields with lots of opportunities for 200+ yard shots. Although I didn't take many of those shots, my rifle was zeroed at 200 yards. The last couple years I've spent 90% of my time in the thick timber where the longest shot is maybe 80 yards, so I switched back to a 100 yard zero.

Probably just need to have multiple guns with different 0s for different situations. I think I'll try to convince my wife that I need a new Springfield Waypoint for that very purpose.

Yeah I have a 270 that's zeroed at 100 yards for the timber I hunt. This gun I'm taken to the high country of Idaho, so I needed something for longer distances, and I was just trying to figure out why the gunsmith would say my gun needs to have 100 yard zero for a proper MOA adjustment.

 

[H80Hunter]

Is it possible he was just explaining that the 1 click = 1/4" only is valid at 100 yards?