100 Grain vs 125 Grain Broadheads

AirborneEScouter

WKR
Shoot2HuntU
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Location
KS
What's your preference? I've shot 100 grains my entire life. Shooting a Mathews Halon 6. I'm a 29" draw length but like shooting at 28.5" (@ 70#). I got set up at Scheels and I can't remember if their tech set me up on 250 or 350 weight arrows (bow case is in storage at the moment) - shooting Carbon Express Maximas - I feel like he may have dumbed me down to 250s but like I said I can't remember.

Reason for asking is we're chasing elk this year and I'm moving to fixed blade broadheads. Love shooting deer with rage hypodermics but seems prudent to make the switch given the bigger stature of elk.

I have a chrono and could test the velocities of both weights by simply buying target tips but it may be simple enough to trust conventional wisdom. As always, appreciate the input.
 
Sounds like you are confusing the grain weight of on arrow with the spine/stiffness of the arrows. DON'T DO THAT:-( DANGER. BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN.
If you shoot an under spined arrow at #70 it can break in mid-air and go through you hand. Not Good and Don't google images of it. You can't un-see them.

At #70 and a 28.5'' arrow you should be shooting 350's spine Carbo Express Maximas. Thjos are Carbon Express numbers. Other companies compute the arrows stiffness in the other direction.

To get back to you question IMO try to get your arrows as heavy as possible with them still shooting about 280 fps (Feet Per Second) which is a very for giving speed for arrows.
We are similar in set-ups so that should be about a 480 gain arrow set-up. I use 125g broad heads to get me to that weight and speed.

Good Luck

Look up John Dudleys NockOn archery podcasts and youtube channels and you'll learn all you need to know about archery and bow hunting.
 
Definitely not confusing spine stiffness, but if memory serves, my tech may have thought i needed 250s w/ my setup at which point I will probably buy 350s if that happened (again, arrows/bow is in storage so need to verify).

Appreciate the info though! Will probably buy some field tips and verify speed when i'm out next
 
I pretty much stay with all 100 grain heads so I can switch back a forth with whatever I want, its all for convenience sake. If I want more weight I add it the insert
 
I shoot 125s. One reason is that the additional 25 grains has to go somewhere, which is typically the ferrule. So a little stronger head. I'd go heavier if it were a bit easier to find components, but 125 can be rough to find in-person as it is. And in the specifications i like. Online, they're everywhere.

As fair as speed, i think it's 3 grains equals 1 foot per second. So about 8fps reduction (roughly).

Get some field tips, after verifying arrow spine, and shoot and see. If 100 grain fly best, just get a stout fixed blade.
 
Are you wanting to shoot 125s for penetration because honestly the extra 25grains will make no difference . Your talking about 1.6 grams. If it makes your arrow fly straighter then yes.

Total arrow weight?


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Seems like it matters less and less today. I just built new arrows and was going to switch to 125s for more weight (my target weight for an elk arrow is 475-500). I went with the BE SS FOCOS system and would of been above 500 with a 125.
 
I was in the same boat last year. The owner of my local pro shop suggested I put weighted inserts in the front of my arrows rather than switch to heavier broad heads. The reason I went with this was due to the fact that I can find nearly every broadhead in 100 grain in Texas, bump up to 125grain and the pickins start to get pretty slim.
 
I’m no expert but these days I think the heavier head aids in FOC more than anything else. Energy equals mass time velocity squared so you get more bang for your buck with a faster arrow, all else being equal. I’d go with weigh collars if needed. I am using 125 VPAs only because I want better FOC. I’ve killed a ton of deer with 100 grain broadheads just fine. But with longer shooting distances I like a little more weight up front to fly better. If you want a heavier arrow you can buy weight tubes that add anywhere from 3-10gr per inch.
 
Your set-up should be fine for elk by just switching to a fixed blade.

But for the question at hand, I have shot 125s for years, figuring if I was going to add weight to the arrow I would do it with the component rhat does most of the work. My preference is for a stiffer and generally heavier shaft as well.

From personal experience, I wouldnt get hung up on FOC or use gimmicky component to add weight.

Heavier arrows will generate more KE, all else equal. I've tested that repeatedly, and the results have been consistent.
 
I had to bump up to a 125 to get my spine to weaken a bit. If I had my choice tho Id run 100s.
 
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