Went out on a whim and picked up an antelope tag for unit 113 over the counter. Unit is North of Casper, NW corner is Kaycee, WY and southern end is Midwest, WY, NE corner is Sussex, WY.
Done enough research to know there's some public amongst a lot of private ground in the area. Wondering if...
Works on most bows, 1-cams too as long as there's a cutout in the cam that lines up close enough. You can also do the string - basically opposite of the cam. Draw the bow back 2-4 inches, insert rod on outside of limb and GENTLY let it down. Voila! Take the string off.
Here's how to do it without the bow press. I rarely use one unless I need to tear the limbs off a bow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X13IusvYkLA
Coop
The reason feathers have declined in popularity with compound bowhunters is because they can absorb moisture. When they get wet they don't stabilize the arrow well and they get much heavier. There are various treatments to help waterproof them and like anything some work better than others...
You'll need about +2 twists on the sight window side and -2 twists on the roller guard side. The top cam needs to point slightly toward the roller guard and your left tear will be gone in a flash.
Burned up my first 100 bullets and cant find them now. Got a hunt just around the corner and am hoping a Rokslider out there might be able to help a brother out!! Willing to pay a premium for as few as 20 and will cover shipping.
Let me know!
Thanks!
Coop
They need to stay sharp all the way through a critter as an absolute minimum. Definitely don't want a blade dulling on hair and hide/bone. Hard to quantify that, but I suspect a Rockwell hardness threshold would be pretty telling versus how much a blade can cut before a given edge would dull...
Your second to last paragraph pretty well nails it Oakhaven... except the (18" below point of impact) should actually be 15" below... and based on your on-target results being vital hits, I'd say you're probably very close to having the right pin setting already as luck would have it. Just need...
Didn't know if it was safe to push them out live... I was wanting to push them out because I need to lube the case to resize and bump the shoulder back which would require another cycle of wet-cleaning.
DC
Excellent post Broz - thanks! Seems there's a big need for a precision reloading how to article and this looks like a great start. I just happen to know a guy that would gladly publish an article here if you'd like to enlighten us more...
Shoot me a PM if you're interested!
Coop
Wondering the same thing... I had a bunch of loads worked up for my rifle and then swapped the barrel - the old chamber was a little longer and slightly larger. I need to pull bullets and resize/bump shoulder back. Are the old bullets garbage? Do I need to dryfire the primers and start over...