I have the EL SV 8x32 and the SLC HD 8x42 and see no difference in terms of shake and jitters. Both are pleasant to look through. Both induce less fatigue in contrast to lightweight 10x binoculars. The EL has a bit more wow factor because it’s lighter and sharper at the edge, but it also shows...
The new Victory RF’s are supposedly impressive.
The Geovids, to my eyes, are “good enough” to step in for my EL SV’s since they let you leave a device at home.
That said, I took a different approach with the Xero A1i for archery. Use any bino, leave the RF at home.
Can’t really “go wrong”...
I do not have the Meopta on hand so tough call.
From a practical standpoint, I'd want to stay in the same family of binoculars for consistent handling, focus, eye position, etc.
BUT, given your 50mm spotter... it does its job, I just wonder if 18x UHD with two eyes can resolve almost as much...
Not sure if this is OP’s cup of joe, but the Canon IS WP L 10x42 is as good as the Swaro’s optically but has image stabilization. I own it alongside the SLC HD’s and the EL’s and it is really no contest handheld once IS is enabled. Even on a tripod it’s very good.
For Arizona coues and elk, I get the most production pairing the EL SV 8x32 on the chest and the EL SV 12x50 on the tripod.
I also like the Canon 10x42 IS WP L. Alpha or otherwise, this is the best glass I could find for leaving the tripod at home. Puts points on bucks that you have no...
EL has better coatings, better handling for most hand types, and sharper edges which makes the FOV appear wider than the SLC HD. Some people say it produces a rolling ball effect when panning quickly because of the field flattener lens.
SLC HD is a tad smaller and has minimally better light...
Yes for the sake of size then yes, those little ones are pocketable make sense.
I hesitantly might offer the 12-200 better for a general purpose complement to smaller primes as well.
Not like the 12-40 is small to begin with.
With an f2.8 zoom, I’d much prefer another step of light gathering with the 25mm or 17mm f1.2 - or perhaps the middle ground with the Panaleica f1.4. That way there’s no question when I’m using the zoom vs the prime. The 7-14mm is another one, probably mandatory for nature shots.
Don’t forget...
As a follow up, I’ve got the EL 12, SLC HD 15, and UHD 18 on their own tripods today. Testing, comparing, playing around. Optically, the UHD, like the EL, doesn’t appear to resolve as much detail as the SLC HD dead center.
RX100 VI.
It’s got 24-200mm sharp as anything, and fits in any pocket. PDAF CAF that actually works. Super slow-mo if you need it.
Downside is not great for huge prints.
I’m a fan of Apple’s MBPr and software suite for media editing - Final Cut Pro is cheap compared to Adobe Premier and Apple’s laptops are optimized for it.
For photo editing, Photoshop runs fine everywhere.
Personally I’d grab a new-old stock MBPr 15” with 32GB of memory, pay for about 2tb...
Second this.
The 18-105 is a bit more stable for video and can deal with zoom crash techniques for video.
The 18-135 is noticeably more compact and every bit as sharp.
Not a great indoor lens, though. For that you’d better pony up for a 1.8 prime.
I used this lens quite a bit a few years back and it’s a good “walk around lens”. A bit slow to focus but mandatory as a do everything lens if you have an Oly body. Nothing to write home about in terms of IQ - soft as a pillow at the long and short end. Good in the middle ranges.
Personally, I’d go with a more robust body for hunting / backpacking. The E-M1 II + 400mm Pro lens (or the Leica 100-400mm) for wildlife, and variable wide angle Pro for nature shots would be great if money was no object.
The E-M1 series grip sticks out a little for packing but makes for a...
Often overlooked but the Razor HD 10x50 is a great optic, easy to look through, minimal blackout.
More normal choice is the Trinovid HD, Conquest HD, Monarch HG, with the Nikon being the best of those.