A really good cleaning resolved the issue, but only for about 40 rounds with a suppressor. It seemed the chamber was tight enough that the carbon buildup quickly made it tight enough to show some pressure signs.
Interestingly, switching to ELDX seems to have completely resolved the issue...
Your maximum point blank range (MPBR) is the furthest you can shoot without introducing adjustment into your point of aim for bullet drop. (Basically the farthest you can just point right at a target and shoot.) For most common calibers/rifles this will be around 250 yards depending on some...
My spotter is an older Vortex Viper. I wanted a Magview but they didn’t have one that fit my spotter model.
Went with the cheap “Magnetic Universal Digiscoping Adapter” from Amazon for $28.99. Honestly it works great. After mastering how to make a good connection quickly, I have gotten some...
Have used a TiGoat 4 man tipi pretty extensively. Works great with the stove, but sucks in wet conditions without one. Weathered a pretty intense blizzard in Wyoming in it without the stove, and it was like it was raining inside the tent.
I have found 6.5 PRC suppressed to be very manageable, but if you are overcoming a flinch the smaller caliber might help you get there faster.
Another consideration: I cut a tikka 6.5 Creedmoor to 18”, and still have velocity for ELDX performance past 500 yards. If you just want a 500 yard elk...
Got it!
I was struggling because the PRC’s shoot so flat that you need a variable adjuster. My creedmoor can just add 0.6 MILs to the base number and it works from 200-600, but the PRC’s need an adjuster that starts small and increases with distance. But obviously has to be easy to remember...
I cut my teeth racing off road motorcycles. EVERYTHING with threads gets loctite. (MuleyFever, if you use blue loctite it does not require heat to remove. Just extra torque to remove once it sets up.)
Stuff still came loose until I paired it with a good torque wrench.
Thanks for all the responses.
Bbob, I agree it works well from 500-900. But it's the adjustment inside 500 that I'm hoping to use this for (mostly). Also I agree on 4DOF. Sometimes it seems to spit out squirrely answers.
Macintosh, I have 500+ figured out on my rifle, but I can't seem to get...
2860 fps and .623 BC. (Shooting the ELDX now.)
I can make an adjustment work nicely for 500-900 yards, but most hunting happens inside 500.
I’m new to MRAD, but it seems like the value of this could legitimately justify building a slower rifle? My 6.5 creedmoor works beautifully with this...
After a day of practicing random yardages, I can come up with my dial out to 600 using the +0.6 adjustment in just a couple seconds.
I tried to come up with an adjustment to make it work with my buddy’s 6.5 PRC.
An adjustment of +0.6 MRAD fits nicely for 500-900 yds, but most hunting is...
Thanks. This stuff is gold. Now every ten yards will correlate to 0.1 MILs, which makes staying on moving animals way easier.
A couple weeks ago I was dialed on some animals in the 450-510 yard range, and every time they moved, I had to go back to the dope sheet to recalculate in MOA. It all...
Adjusting to a 200yd zero puts me less than 0.2 MRAD off, out to 600. I’d prefer to use a 100 yd zero, but going with 200 isn’t a big deal.
Form, your +0.6 adjustment brings it within 0.1 out to 550, but requires more mental math under pressure. It’s easy math, but still tough in the moment...
As an aside, I did figure out that 6MPH full value wind gives the easy calculation for distance. Thats pretty wild to see all the numbers line up on the chart!