Absolutely! Both shafts should be entering the target at the same trajectory. As you’re making adjustments it should work itself out, and if not then it could be a spine issue. But looking at your posted specs it sounds like you have a real good setup.
If adjustments of the rest don’t get you...
If your bareshafts are hitting to the right then you’ve got a nock left condition. Absolutely be concerned about tuning that out. You can start by bumping your rest in very small increments to the right.
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You need something to compare the bareshaft to. Fletch up 2 of your shafts, then shoot the fletched shaft and then the bareshaft and compare the results. Do this more than once and walk back to further distances as you get them to group.
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That slotted part is a lashing tab to just hang anything from, and the ring, as previously mentioned is for securing a bladder hose.
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These programs give you a rough baseline and by no means are they the end all, be all. If it says you over or underspined in the program, it doesn’t mean you can’t achieve good arrow flight with that setup.
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I have 3 large frames I use for myself and want to set a pack up for my wife. I have a frame that has seen no use at all. Anyone willing to trade a medium frame for a tall? Thanks.
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Curious about this too. I’ll be flying out to Kansas in November and was planning on just stuffing a Kuiu 5200 with all my stuff and checking it and my bow case and having a carry on.
So has anyone just checked their frame pack and had any issues? Thanks
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Are those a two part system, insert and collar? Also, what didn’t you like about the Ethics system for micros?
Thanks for the review.
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How do you paper tune a broadhead? And if you’re not shooting field points what do you have to compare your broadhead flight to?
It’s the same with shooting field points, you can’t tell you have bad flight until you compare them to bare shafts if broadheads. All you’re doing is moving your...
Hey Doug, I noticed you said in the suspension review that you had 3 additional lumbar pads in your previous pack. I have the same issue, a case of no-ass. I’m using a 2018 icon pro and I want to put some more padding back there but I can barely fit one. How were you able to fit 3 of them back...
The problem with that is, your bow can be out of tune and still shoot broadheads in the same spot over and over, you just have to move your sight to compensate for an out of tune bow.
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Definitely keep focusing on good shot execution and form. If you have access to a press you can work wonders. If your broadheads are consistently hitting to the right and it’s no form or shot flaw then I would personally tune it out. If you don’t have access to a press you can continue to bump...
You can’t apply those same numbers to every different combination of vastly different bow and arrow setups. But no one can argue with physics either, fixed blades create drag and that drag will cause them to hit lower at further and further distances. How much lower can vary widely!
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So you’re telling everyone that you don’t do any tuning to your bow at all, all you do is make sure your shafts spin good and if you do that then you’re broadheads always hit with your field points? Either your stretching the truth or you’re very lucky. Bows are instruments, instruments need to...
Well, I never said that bareshaft tuning is the be all end all tuning method but it’s damn near as close as you can get when they’re hitting the same as your fletched shafts. But there are also times when even after you have bareshaft tuned that some broadheads will still hit a little off and if...
A paper tune doesn’t necessarily mean you’re bow is tuned. That’s just a rough staring point. I would definitely go down the so called “rabbit hole” of correctly tuning your bow. Start with bareshaft tuning at 10 yards and move back to 40. There are some broadheads that just won’t fly as good as...