Yeah, try the acetone and the bore brush. Also not a bad idea to sand your components just to get a good crosshatch pattern on em. Just allows for better surface adhesion.
Did you clean the components and inside of the shafts with acetone? I can’t speak for the HIT’s personally because I’ve never used them, but I lightly sand/scuff inserts and inside of shafts with 300 sand paper then thoroughly wipe everything with acetone.
Maybe the black eagles had a little...
Yes they are. I cut the insert down to 30gr and with the SS collar at 70gr gave me 100 worth of insert. I never tried the aluminum collars just for that matter. I figured they would probably be on the weak side and bend but this setup has really been bulletproof!
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Been shooting the VAP’s with the Ethics archery system for 2 years now and haven’t looked back.
This arrow was “just a bit outside” and went through a steel ratchet strap buckle. Arrow still spun true with zero damage except for a smashed point.
What’s your draw length, total weight up front and shaft length?
Shooting 73 lbs with a 340 arrow, your under spined unless you’ve got a short draw and even shorter shaft.
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If you’re not getting much change with moving your nocking point or rest up or down than it’s more likely a timing issue. Do you have access to a press and/or draw board?
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Online calculators are just a rough estimate. It sounds like you could be a little in the weak side though.
Like mentioned before, you have to fix you in order to paper or bareshaft tune or you’ll just chase your tail.
You could try using a 100gr point and cutting down to 28” (cut from the rear)...
Ethics archery makes awesome components. I use the VAP’s with the Ethics system (30gr halfout, 70gr collar), total of 200gr up front. pretty bullet proof system.
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Depending on how much weight you wanna put up front you will be good with a 300 or 350 spine shaft. Again depending on the weight upfront you’d be fine cutting the shafts at your des length or an 1” or so short. It’s hard to really just throw an exact number out there. You can play with the...
What bow are you shooting? Poundage, draw weight, draw length? How much total weight are you planning on putting on the front? All this information is needed to make an informed decision.
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Not to change the subject, but what types of sellers are you using? I have a good pair of Gor-Tex nubuck boots that are finally starting to take on water. I’ve tried nicwax, scotchgaurd spray and just got some rust oleum never wet that I haven’t tried yet because it has an extremely strong...
Just so not to sidetrack this thread, I am not for xbows during archery season for those that just prefer hunting with one, but I am all for em if someone has a valid disability exemption.
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“Trad guys” will never get those numbers because they’re not shooting featherweight arrows. 400gr is extremely light for a 40# bow (unless your squirrel hunting)
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I hesitate even posting this because I know how quickly it will get out of hand, but if your broadheads are hitting right, move your rest to the right or add twists to left yoke(s) or shim cams to the left.
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If your broadheads are grouping with you field points then it doesn’t matter what a paper tear says now. It should be a clean tear but even if it’s not 100%, you’ve achieved your end result with your groupings.
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