Just curious what you all use. My string level on the serving, gives a slightly different reading then when directly on the string
An OMP screw in riser level is also another tool I use to check vertical level. It can also measure horizontally.
Finally I have a Hamskea on top of my sight...
Yea so I figured out why (when I twisted a yolk cable), my draw stop was passing the control cable.
Nuts&bolts told me to check the position of the draw stop at full draw. And sure enough, the control cable is not even close to be centered on my draw stop. I suspect it was the shop that did...
Thanks fellas. I'm getting that same cam noise when I add any twist in my yokes (see video above). It is my stop slapping past my control cable. Not sure what's going on
That's what I've heard. Just trying to baseline things and get my paper tune looking good. I fixed the vertical stuff, but now getting tail right tear.
Do I add a twist to the right yoke ?
If I do this, do I need to remove a twist from the opposite side (to keep timing in synch?
Yea, I was getting worried for a second. Hoyt's official stance is to adjust the yoke cables to fix cam timing and to not do the control cable (as it can affect peak draw weight). Though they say you CAN twist/untwist the control cable.
The only thing I can think of is the local pro shop ding...
So I actually had to turn counter clockwise, but was able to get timing PERFECT. However, my top cam is now making an audible noise when it's at full draw.
Video https://youtube.com/shorts/ooEGK_BKl3o?feature=share
Thank you! Since the bottom cam is hitting first, I'm planning to add a 1/2 twist on each side (on the top yokes)
Never done this before. Does it simply come right off, once the bow is pressed ?
It's a 2020 Axius Alpha. I had it in the draw board and the bottom cam is hitting before the top
Per Hoyt literature, I'm not supposed to touch the bottom cables. I'm supposed to add twists to the yolk cables (on top) OR remove twists from the control cable
So my question is: If I add twists...
So it sounds like having a level arrow is not as pertinent as getting good groupings or tears?
So at the range, both my field points and mechanicals have the exact same POI. Wondering if I should touch it
So I just got into tuning and own an LCA ez green press, draw board and OMP MicroTune vise.
I decided to look at my bow from the last time it was "tuned" by the local pro shop. My 1st, 2nd and 3rd axis were pretty close and only required minor adjustments.
However, when I placed an arrow on...
I picked up an OMP Microtune bow vise, OMP bow square and string level.
i have an Green Ez press on order
Do I need anything else ? I’m planning on buying my arrows pre-cut with fletching, so I won’t need arrow hardware
-Do I need an arrow level in addition to a bow square?
Do you need to pull back fully when using a spring scale? The tech tried using a hand held spring scale, but didn’t pull my bow back fully ( don’t think he could) and read 68#.
That’s when he tried the OMP
I’ve also tried an X Spot prior to turning up my bow to what it is now, and it had me at 71
Just curious on everyone’s experience with this. My local shop used an OMP Pro Shop hanging style and read me at 72#.
I own an HS-2 and HS-3. My HS-2 has me at 73.6 (avg of 3) and my HS-3 has me at 74 (avg of 3).
I know it’s splitting hairs here and not important, but just curious on the...
I have a MGB single (vertical) pin ascent verdict. It is solid and the pins are bright (.19). I’m rough on my equipment too. I’d say their customer service is pretty solid too.
That being said, you can’t go wrong with either choice as others have said