Does this barrel have enough shoulder for Suppressor?

Badger 5

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
I am going to run a suppressor on my Tikka T3 Lite in 6.5CM with a 20 inch barrel. I got the barrel threaded by a local gunsmith in 5/8x24. He told me the shoulder would be smaller, but he wouldn’t have a problem running that thread size on my gun. Cool, the professional thinks 5/8x24 will work well.

I just got the gun back and thought “wow, that shoulder is tiny!”

I am no gunsmith, but this shoulder seems very small…would you be comfortable running these threads for a suppressor, or would you go back and get this done in 1/2x28?

My otter creek Hydrogen S got out of jail yesterday, very excited.
 

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I’m the furthest thing from an expert on this but I just had pretty much the exact same rig chopped and threaded at 19in and he told me he was going to have to add a shoulder and here is what mine ended up looking like
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:-/ seems purdy small to me. I try and stick to the dimensions on Thunder Beast Arms website for muzzle thread minimums, regardless of what can is going on it, just because it makes sense to me to really ensure good can lockup and prevent concentricity issues (provided the threads are cut 'right'). If barrel is skinny, having a shoulder like shown above permanently installed is another way to achieve said shoulder dimensions without having to have a whole new barrel or cutting to 1/2" threads for sure.

Goal I think generally is to have the only force the threads see be tension parallel with the bore axis, and any lateral load (imagine holding barrel just behind muzzle threads in one hand and pushing on muzzle end of suppressor sideways) be carried by a shoulder that's O.D. is at least 0.100" larger than the nominal thread diameter, while maintaining barrel 'wall thickness' (diameter of muzzle threads relief cut - major diameter at rifling groove, divided by 2) of 0.100" or greater as well just to prevent in advertent barrel stretch or squeeze, any kind of strain/stress at the muzzle when torquing a muzzle device to spec as it can effect accuracy and not be very strong if you were to say drop your rifle with a can on it (maybe bend or break the barrel at muzzle).

Not saying I know for a fact that it 'has' to be this way. But it does make sense to me. Food for thought, kimber used to and may still thread .30 caliber magnums with 7/16x28 threads (breaking the rules above on barrel wall thickness big time) but seemingly to ensure there was adequate shoulder for the muzzle break to lockup on. If you compare those dimensions that to what I described above... yikes. Also not saying what Kimber does should be relied upon to say that said practice is wise or 'ok'.
 
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Do NOT put a suppressor on that barrel. Most suppressor manufacturers require .100” of shoulder over the major thread diameter. 5/8”-24 needs .725” and 1/2”-28 needs .600”. Having an adequate shoulder is extremely important because that is what the suppressor aligns off.

You either need an added shoulder like TBarron posted or have it rethreaded 1/2”-28”.
 
I am going to run a suppressor on my Tikka T3 Lite in 6.5CM with a 20 inch barrel. I got the barrel threaded by a local gunsmith in 5/8x24. He told me the shoulder would be smaller, but he wouldn’t have a problem running that thread size on my gun. Cool, the professional thinks 5/8x24 will work well.

I just got the gun back and thought “wow, that shoulder is tiny!”

I am no gunsmith, but this shoulder seems very small…would you be comfortable running these threads for a suppressor, or would you go back and get this done in 1/2x28?

My otter creek Hydrogen S got out of jail yesterday, very excited.


I have shot 20,000 plus rounds with 6.5’s and 308’s, and several thousand 300 mags threaded the same and suppressed.

It’s really simple: screw the can on- does it stop? Yes- look through the bore, is it aligned? Yes? Then you’re good.
 
I have shot 20,000 plus rounds with 6.5’s and 308’s, and several thousand 300 mags threaded the same and suppressed.

It’s really simple: screw the can on- does it stop? Yes- look through the bore, is it aligned? Yes? Then you’re good.
Damn, I learn something new everyday! @Formidilosus, not wanting to over generalize here, but in your experience would it be safe to say that the 0.100" over major thread diameter shoulder falls into the "we do it this way just because it's how we always have and it works" category? Kind a like, rifle stocks of the last 100+ years are the shape/design they are 'just because' that's how we've always done it, etc.
 
Easy, call the manufacturer if you don't trust it. See what they say and then measure it. When I called AB they gave me a very small number for the required shoulder. It surprised me.
 
It will depend on the minor of your can thread. If your shoulder is proud of the minor, you should be able to square up.
 
Damn, I learn something new everyday! @Formidilosus, not wanting to over generalize here, but in your experience would it be safe to say that the 0.100" over major thread diameter shoulder falls into the "we do it this way just because it's how we always have and it works" category? Kind a like, rifle stocks of the last 100+ years are the shape/design they are 'just because' that's how we've always done it, etc.

In general- yes. There are a bunch of people saying things definitively, when they are just repeating what they’ve heard or been told with no actual experience.
 
In general- yes. There are a bunch of people saying things definitively, when they are just repeating what they’ve heard or been told with no actual experience.
Copy, I certainly put myself in that box on this one, in an attempt to help somebody else avoid the potentially fictional doom of a baffle strike. Slippery slope.

Never wanted to risk a baffle strike, etc. ruining a can, so never had a barrel threaded with minimal shoulder, then made up in my mind over years and years a justification of why it must be 'the way'
 
I have an enticer L-ti on a .700 muzzle and 5/8-24 threads. Works just fine. If your smith knows how to cut threads you don't even need a shoulder. A .500" engagement length will keep the can aligned.
 
My $.02, Just for peace of mind i think i would go back and have it threaded at 1/2x28.

i have had a few t3 lites cut and threaded. I used Morgan at Class Three Machining. On each of the barrels he did 1/2x28. Calibers include 300wm, 30-06 and 308. The tikka barrel profile is awful thin.
 
Update: I ended up taking the barrel back to be threaded 1/2x28

I really appreciate all of your expertise! Once I get it back I’ll post up some pics


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