Yellowstone trip – first time advice for visiting and backpacking???

[Desk Jockey]

Looking for advice on upcoming backpacking trip to Yellowstone with my brother in the 3rd week of May. First time at Yellowstone for both of us. We are both experienced hikers and above average fitness.

We are flying into Bozeman and getting a car. Have 6 nights and 7 days to play with. We are planning on hitting the backcountry for 2 trips with 2-3 total overnights and mix in the tourist sites on rest days. 2nd weekend is Memorial day so I am hoping to avoid crowds, if possible by being in a more remote area.

Tourist stuff and front country - Anything to add to this list?

• Old Faithful
• Grand Canyon
• Yellowstone lake
• Prismatic Spring
• Mammoth Hot Springs
• Norris Geyser Basin
• Hayden Valley
• Lamar Valley
• Grizzly and Wolf Center


Backpacking options – Would like to do 2 backpacking trips of 1-2 nights each, 5-10 miles a day. I am mindful of the fact that snow or Swollen streams may keep us from doing some hikes at that time of year.

• Sky Rim Trail – 1-2 nights
• Firehole Meadows – 1 night
• Grand Canyon – not sure how to make this an overnight
• Black Canyon – 1 night

Any advice or guidance is appreciated – packing, hiking, weather, crowds, sites to see, what to avoid, etc.

Also, how much time should I spend in Grand Teton? I am thinking a day of driving around to take in the views before heading back to Bozeman to fly out the next day.

Shower me with wisdom roksliders…

 

[Brightwhite]

Perfect timing! I can’t help, but I’m going to follow this. I am looking into a trip up to Yellowstone sometime in June, but at the time I will have my very pregnant wife, so I won’t be able to do any backpacking or long hiking trips, more touristy stuff.

 

[fishforsmallies]

Personally, I wouldn’t waste time on Old Faithful. Seen it once and found it a major disappointment. The Canyon is really cool. Prismatic and Mammoth Hot springs are neat to see. Lamar Valley is great for seeing your fill of buffalo and maybe a grizz or wolf. My favorite spot however is never seen by 99.99% of all visitors. Just before entering Gardiner, Montana there is a “mountain” on your right where bighorns like to hang out. I have climbed up there twice and spent an hour each time hanging out with a half dozen or more rams within 20 yards.

 

[EastMT]

Make sure and drive south of Yellowstone towards Jackson. The Teton Range is the most beautiful view in the area IMO.

 

[brandent111]

Old Faithful is a yawn fest. Learn Chinese.

 

[brandent111]

Make sure and drive south of Yellowstone towards Jackson. The Teton Range is the most beautiful view in the area IMO.

1000% this. Lake Jenny is one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Thanks for the input.

Is Jenny lake better as a hiking or driving thing? Seems like the trail in 8 miles but runs close to the road and there is a scenic roadway as well.

Any idea what temps and weather I should expect in late May. How bad will the snow be up in passes on the Rim Trail and such? I don't mind a little rain or a bit of snow but I am not interested in crampon work or anything too sketchy.

 

[wesfromky]

The Jenny lake area has some great day hiking - Cascade Canyon over paintbrush divide and down paintbrush canyon is long, but really good.

For Yellowstone, my advice is to try to do the touristy stuff before 8:30am, then do some hikes, as the traffic is much lighter early. Personally, I like the northeast corner the best - some great 1-2 night trips are possible, and the camp grounds are primitive, so much fewer of the tourist types. And, Lamar Valley is known as the Serengeti of North America for a reason.

 

[aggie]

I would hike the Teton side of Jenny lake as opposed to the road side of the lake. Make a little day out of it and hike from Jenny up String lake to Leigh lake. Most of the touristy hikers that see Jenny don't take the time to walk past the boat shuttle on the far side of the lake.

I would also recommend after your hike to have beer on the roof of Dornans, drive down Mormon row, and watch the sunset over the Tetons from shadow mountain.

 

[jmden]

You gotta go see all the main sights you mention. Then don't go back on a later trip if you don't want. Backpacking in Yellowstone in May...I don't know...unless you are prepared for feet of snow and like that.

Most of Yellowstone is high mountain elevations and will be snow covered into the summer, I would guess. It could be quite cold in May. I've had temps down into the 20s in early August on the shores of Yellowstone lake, which is about 8000' elevation as I recall. So be ready for some cold temps and snow. Personally, I would probably not ever plan a backpacking trip in the mountains in May. Certainly not near where I live anyway. There'd be many feet of snow on the ground and while it'd still be beautiful, it's not warm and the mountain flowers would not be out and not be nearly as enjoyable as late July/August. I'll be there for a few days in late July/August this year for these reasons.

Yellowstone Rockies will get less snow than the Cascade Mountains of Washington State, but with 120% snowpack here this year, and with a cool, wet spring here so far, getting anywhere you want to go without running into many feet of snowpack until very late July/August may be the norm this year.

I can almost see from my house where the world's record for snowfall is (Mt. Baker Ski Area--with 95 feet in 1999, Mt. Baker Ski Area - Wikipedia ) and 2nd place is at Paradise, Mt. Rainier at about 92 feet, as I recall. The mountains around here are much more friendly in late July/August than in May. And that's just talking about 4000-6000 ft elevations. With Yellowstone at 8000', even though they get less snow than here in Washington's Cascades and Olympics, in May there still could be quite a bit of snow. Br much friendlier in late July/August, I think. Most folks around here will never go to 8000 ft. elevation unless they are mountain climbers.

 

[hflier]

You gotta go see all the main sights you mention. Then don't go back on a later trip if you don't want. Backpacking in Yellowstone in May...I don't know...unless you are prepared for feet of snow and like that.

Most of Yellowstone is high mountain elevations and will be snow covered into the summer, I would guess. It could be quite cold in May. I've had temps down into the 20s in early August on the shores of Yellowstone lake, which is about 8000' elevation as I recall. So be ready for some cold temps and snow. Personally, I would probably not ever plan a backpacking trip in the mountains in May. Certainly not near where I live anyway. There'd be many feet of snow on the ground and while it'd still be beautiful, it's not warm and the mountain flowers would not be out and not be nearly as enjoyable as late July/August. I'll be there for a few days in late July/August this year for these reasons.

Yellowstone Rockies will get less snow than the Cascade Mountains of Washington State, but with 120% snowpack here this year, and with a cool, wet spring here so far, getting anywhere you want to go without running into many feet of snowpack until very late July/August may be the norm this year.

I can almost see from my house where the world's record for snowfall is (Mt. Baker Ski Area--with 95 feet in 1999, Mt. Baker Ski Area - Wikipedia ) and 2nd place is at Paradise, Mt. Rainier at about 92 feet, as I recall. The mountains around here are much more friendly in late July/August than in May. And that's just talking about 4000-6000 ft elevations. With Yellowstone at 8000', even though they get less snow than here in Washington's Cascades and Olympics, in May there still could be quite a bit of snow. Br much friendlier in late July/August, I think. Most folks around here will never go to 8000 ft. elevation unless they are mountain climbers.

You have to see the Tetons. It is worth the drive. I will be cold and snowy. I went in late June and it was still snowing.



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[Tod osier]

The concern about snow is a good thing to keep in mind. There was one year that we were out there looking to hit Yellowstone as early as possible and the third week of may dumped snow and locked things up for a couple days. I don’t remember the exact timing of the snow, but we got to the park the 30th and there was plenty of snow. Lot of things to do outside the park at lower elevations if that happens.

 

[wesfromky]

I have been in early May a couple of times - still usually snow on the ground, esp in the higher elevations, but Lamar valley is lower than most of the park, so might be a good area to look into. Plan on some cold nights though, for sure. Some of the passes like dunraven and beartooth might still be closed, but the park entrances should be fine, except maybe Cody. If you can get there, Mount Washburn is a nice hike.

The hike I mentioned in the tetons - cascade valley to paintbrush divide might not be doable, but just going up cascade canyon to solitude lake is pretty nice. Bonus if you get going early and beat the first ferry load of people to the trail head.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Yeah. My research is suggesting snow is going to be a limiting factor to some of my hiking aspirations. Unfortunately this is the only time we can both get a hall pass from the wives.

Appreciate the input. Keep it coming.

 

[rickjames80]

Old Faithful is a yawn fest. Learn Chinese.

Lol! I agree Old Faithful is ehh, however the lodge is worth seeing if you are going to be close

 

[seldomseensmith]

Electric Peak is a backpacking trip worth looking into. I worked in Yellowstone back in the day. The geyser basin at Old Faithful is a great experience and while you are there for that you will def see Old Faithful go off. There is a place to get a drink at the Inn on the second floor right by the outdoor deck. Great place to watch from. I get it, it’s a rat race at Old Faithful but to tell someone on their first trip to skip it is silly. Skip it on your second trip. Try to just hit the roadside attractions on your way to hikes. The drive times can be deceiving. I personally would omit the road to The east and west gates to save driving.
Find the Boiling River for a soak. Right near where that guy mentioned the roadside bighorns. Pick up the book Death in Yellowstone to read along the way. Short stories with a common theme. Have a great time. It won’t be too busy (relatively) since school is still in session in most places.


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[CX5Ranch]

We didn't get off the road much but....hayden valley is loaded with elk...old faithful was a must see.....grand canyon of the Yellowstone was near the prettiest thing I ever saw.....the hot springs are really neat but once you see one they're all the same so save some time there....the petrified trees were cool....and I will never go back without fishing gear. Have fun.

 

[jmden]

Lol! I agree Old Faithful is ehh, however the lodge is worth seeing if you are going to be close

Yeah, Old Faithful Inn is considered the largest log structure in the world. Worth seeing for sure. Almost burned in the '88 Yellowstone fires...

 

[jmden]

Yep, Boiling River is pretty nice! We saw a bunch of bighorns from top of Mt. Washburn. I think that trail would likely be all under feet of snow in May, though. Don't know what the snowpack and weather has been like over there though.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

1000% this. Lake Jenny is one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited.

Inside the park I always liked doing the thunderer and avalanche peak for quick trips.