Which scale?

aboltlrhunter

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Im looking at investing in a new scale after this season is over with. What are some good scales I should look in to? I know I'm leaning towards a beam scale.
 

Shrek

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If you want as good of beam scale as can be had then call or email Scott Parker and buy a tuned vintage scale from him. The new RCBS scales are garbage so avoid them. Scott won't even work on them they're made so poorly. He can be found on accurateshooter.com .

Scott's phone number is 661 364 1199
Email is [email protected]
 
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Why do you want a beam scale? I'll never touch another one. I kept my 10-10 for posterity, but it does nothing better than the 1500, and way slower.
 
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aboltlrhunter

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Why do you want a beam scale? I'll never touch another one. I kept my 10-10 for posterity, but it does nothing better than the 1500, and way slower.

Well Sam, here's been my experience. I got my reloading gear anout 5-6 years ago. I bought all new Hornady gear. I bought their 2 big kits they have. And at this time I didnt know anything about reloading. I didnt really do a whole lot of loading until about 2 years ago when I really started doing my research and learning the ins and outs. Anyways I got the Hornady Autocharge scale with the package and thats what I've used. Recently I started reading about people saying you have to let those things warm up over night or they will drift on you. I didnt really think a whole lot about that till about a month ago and I tested it. In 45 min time the scale had drifted a whole 3.0 grains. So I started using my dads uncles ancient beam scale (probably 40-50 years old) and have had much better consistency in my loads since I started using that scale. So I thought it may be beneficial to upgrade to a better beam scale so I dont have to deal with the drifting of the electronics. Now that being said I have heard and read good stuff on the gempro 250's (I think thats the model) and have thought about one of those too. Im just not sure if those have the drifting problems too. I'm not dead set on a beam but thats just the side I'm leaning to because of my experiences. Maybe my beam scale is fine too, it just seems to have some sticky spots when it balances if I dont have the beam set on it just right. I open to all suggestions that you or anyone else may have for me. Anyways sorry for the long response.

And thanks Shrek for you info I'm gonna keep that in mind.
 

goatboy

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I have a smaller rcbs scale (range master 750?) and it drifts a lot. RCBS says it's due to static electricity and to leave a dryer sheet on it to eliminate the problem but it still exists. The worst part is I can calibrate and it looks fine until I check it against my old 5-0-5 and it's 5-6 grains out. It made for some pretty hot 22-250 loads.
 
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The only thing that matters with a scale, is that it's accurate and repeatable. The two Chargemaster 1500s I've used have been. Yes, they will drift sometimes if you leave weight on them for a long time, but NEVER in the < 10 seconds it takes to measure and throw a charge. Buy some check weights to keep track of accuracy, or weigh something that closely matches charge weights. I have never had my 1500 not measure those indicator weights exactly. That being said, if you don't shoot much, a beam scale is cheaper than an electronic. If you try shooting 5-6k rounds a year, you'll have to get an ammo sponsor, because you won't be able to keep up with a beam scale. The best thing I invested in, in the last 3 years, was a Chargemaster combo. Most people I know use two of them next to each other.

Beam scales can be out of whack, also. Dust in the saddle, mouth not held right, eyes not focusing, beam not squared up, etc. This is all about knowing your equipment, and making it work for you. It is not rocket science; you don't need two decimal point accuracy in a scale.
 
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aboltlrhunter

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The only thing that matters with a scale, is that it's accurate and repeatable. The two Chargemaster 1500s I've used have been. Yes, they will drift sometimes if you leave weight on them for a long time, but NEVER in the < 10 seconds it takes to measure and throw a charge. Buy some check weights to keep track of accuracy, or weigh something that closely matches charge weights. I have never had my 1500 not measure those indicator weights exactly. That being said, if you don't shoot much, a beam scale is cheaper than an electronic. If you try shooting 5-6k rounds a year, you'll have to get an ammo sponsor, because you won't be able to keep up with a beam scale. The best thing I invested in, in the last 3 years, was a Chargemaster combo. Most people I know use two of them next to each other.

Beam scales can be out of whack, also. Dust in the saddle, mouth not held right, eyes not focusing, beam not squared up, etc. This is all about knowing your equipment, and making it work for you. It is not rocket science; you don't need two decimal point accuracy in a scale.

Thanks for the input Sam, I really do appreciate your experience and knowledge in this subject. I get what your saying about the repeatability of everything. Thanks for the responses.
 
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Bullets make good test weights for electronic scales....22 caliber are often in the range of your powder charge if you shoot 40-75 grain loads. That said I keep an ancient RCBS beam scale around to cross check my electronic scale charges.
 
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have a dillon and a pact electronic scale. Both do a good job, but with quirks. having to re-zero quite often is my only real complaint and it is a minor inconvenience compared to the simplicity of reading the weight instead of adjusting the scale to match the weight like a beam scale. Several things the digitals dont like are electronic interference like a florescent light turn on in another part of house, change in room temperature which often happens with me as use a spare bedroom for reloading room that typically is not cooled or heated with central system unless being used. small wind currents can also unnerve either type scale and need to be addressed. Am still firm believer both scales have their place and usefulness on my bench
 

tstowater

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I hate scales. I'm with Shrek in that most of the scales today are crap. Balance beams are slow and most electronics have their issues. Most of the time when I am setting up the Dillon to load prairie dog loads, I will use an electronic until I get to weight and verify with a balance beam. Lots of times I will use a SmartReloader (yeah, a piece of S**t but serves the purpose) and an older RCBS balance beam to verify. Surprisingly, the cheap iScale usually nails it or within a 10th or 2. I have a Gempro 250 for more of the "single stage" loading and it works pretty well and, as mtswampfox said, the electronics don't like other electronics and wind currents. Whatever you do, verify zero on a regular basis especially if playing with hot loads.
 

bates

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I'm with all those guys no way would I touch a beam scale, well I do like the beam scale in my Prometheus but that is a different animal


for a good scale I would get this ..... http://balance.balances.com/scales/569 but more than likely over your budget, I ran a gd-503 for a while and it was in a league of its own for electronic scales I think this is the latest replacement.

Or like Sam said dueling chargemasters work good for the money, just buy a good set of check weights, and no I wouldn't use bullets for check weight
 
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I use an RCBS electronic alongside a RCBS 10-10 balance beam. Both are used just to set up powder measures ... A Redding for heavier charges and a small Harrell for light charges. They also serve as a cross-check against each other. I got over weighing individual charges decades ago as it gains you nothing over a consistent thrown charge.

A set of check weights is an extremely good investment - helps to keep everything honest.
 
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Edge

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Aug 10, 2015
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I have the sartorius 64 (link bates posted) and an omega powder trickler, cats meow. There is a YouTube video showing the scale and trickler being used together, fast and accurate. You can measure one grain of H4350 at a time. Highly recommend them both.

Edge
 
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