Tikka T3x Won’t Fire

[Jhill1980]

I have a 2015 Tikka, . 270 caliber that won’t fire. This rifle is prior to the newer generations with steel recoil lugs, etc.
-It’s soft striking the primer cap(denting the primer cap. But, not creating ignition.
-I have replaced the firing pin assembly with a factory tikka assembly.
-The rifle has less than 60 rounds through it.
-Most of all the issues I have researched online revolve around the front pin assembly.

Has anyone had a firing/soft strike issue that the firing pin assembly did not fix?

 

[rickjames80]

Reloaded rounds or factory ammo?

 

[Jhill1980]

Factory ammo, I’ve tried three different types of ammo as well. I don’t get it. I would assume that burrs and machining anomalies would have been apparent from the get go.

 

[B23]

I'm wondering if your gun has excessive headspace and the firing pin is just pushing the whole cartridge forward which will soft dent the primer but not be hard enough to make it go bang.

 

[Jhill1980]

What throws head spacing off? If that were an issue? Wouldn’t be an issue for the get going?

 

[Thegman]

Yes, hard to imagine headspace actually changing unless your barrel were unthreading or something strange happened with your bolt head or action in 60 rounds, both of which are unlikely.

I'd start with checking your firing pin protusion and go from there. Sounds like you've changed the firing pin so you're familiar with the process of cocking/de-cocking the firing pin.

 

[Gila]

If you have a fired piece of brass, you can compare the ”dent” from then and now.

The obvious:

1) The first thing I think of is the bolt closing all of the way? Sounds dumb. but there are a few things that could cause that.

2) The next is a dirty, gritty bolt face. Gunk or grit in the firing pin hole. Gunk or grit in the extractor claw.

3) gunk or grit in the chamber rim.

Not so obvious
1) firing pin too short
2) weak or deformed firing pin spring.
3) firing pin not lined up with bolt face hole properly.
4) concave bolt face hole.

I have a T3 (2005) and a T3X (2021). The only difference between the two bolts that I have observed is that the bolt shroud is metal on the T3X. The probability that a factory loaded primer will fail is very low. However penetrating oil can cause primers to fail. If it is a soft strike then the dent diameter will be quite small in comparison to the fired brass.

 

[SomeJackassOnAForum]

I have a T3X Tac A1 and had an issue during a match where the trigger wasn't resetting and the hammer would basically follow the bolt.

I wound up having to break the rifle down midmatch and slowly increase the trigger lbs until it would engage.

I'd start with making sure your firing pin isn't binding/obstructed and start going through components.

 

[B23]

What throws head spacing off? If that were an issue? Wouldn’t be an issue for the get going?

My misunderstanding I thought this was doing it from the get do didn't know it used to fire fine for you and now isn't.

Headspace doesn't change so only way it would really be an issue is if the brass was now more undersized than it was before and if you're shooting factory ammo and you've tried multiple different factory ammo it's not likely this is your problem.

Re-read the first post, those 60 rnds you've shot through it, were those all factory ammo too?

 

[Spoonbill]

I have a 2015 Tikka, . 270 caliber that won’t fire. This rifle is prior to the newer generations with steel recoil lugs, etc.
-It’s soft striking the primer cap(denting the primer cap. But, not creating ignition.
-I have replaced the firing pin assembly with a factory tikka assembly.
-The rifle has less than 60 rounds through it.
-Most of all the issues I have researched online revolve around the front pin assembly.

Has anyone had a firing/soft strike issue that the firing pin assembly did not fix?

Is there oil on the firing pin? This could be causing light primer strikes. If you put oil on it, the bolt apart and degrease the firing pin assembly.

 

[Jhill1980]

My misunderstanding I thought this was doing it from the get do didn't know it used to fire fine for you and now isn't.

Headspace doesn't change so only way it would really be an issue is if the brass was now more undersized than it was before and if you're shooting factory ammo and you've tried multiple different factory ammo it's not likely this is your problem.

Re-read the first post, those 60 rnds you've shot through it, were those all factory ammo too?

The only ammunition through this rifle has been factory. I don’t have the tools, know how, or supplies to do any reloading at this point.

 

[CoffeeGoat]

Is there oil on the firing pin? This could be causing light primer strikes. If you put oil on it, the bolt apart and degrease the firing pin assembly.

Take this with a handful of salt - I just bought my tikka and as I was going through learning all the standard maintenance stuff I caught a clip on YouTube about "bolt maintenance" and the guy mentioned specifically light strikes with newer Tikkas and colder weather. Basically, the factory shipping grease can bind up the firing pin. In this case it seems pretty unlikely since you already swapped out the assembly, but perhaps worth another look.

 

[Decker9]

I had the same thing happen once. Turned out it was my front scope base screw, protruding just enough to touch the bolt. It would fire sometimes, but strike light other times. I touched it up with a file and it took care of my problem. Might be worth checking out?

 

[Decker9]

I’ll attach a photo of what caused my problem. The bolt would still close and function, but when I cocked my rifle, the screw end put just enough pressure on my bolt to cause miss fires.

 

[Gila]

I cleaned out quite a bit of packing grease on a newer T3X which I bought from the “big three”. The old T3 I bought new from my local town gun shop was cleaned before I bought it. OP has already put 60 rounds through it though. Tikka has always test fired from the factory. The Tikka bolt should be dry.

If the forward bottom metal action screw is over torqued, it could pop up through the receiver. With Tikka stock action screws, the max torque should not be greater than 32ft/lbs from what I have been told by the after market folks. With an after market stock and aluminum/steel bottom metal, the torque values might change as well as the length of the action screws.

 

[Gila]

I had the same thing happen once. Turned out it was my front scope base screw, protruding just enough to touch the bolt. It would fire sometimes, but strike light other times. I touched it up with a file and it took care of my problem. Might be worth checking out?

On a T3X the base screws are 6x48 and the torque value is 12-14ft/lbs. If a base screw pops through on a Tikka action, that screw could be stripped, depending on how long the base screws are, that come with the base. If Tikka rings are used no action screws are used since the base is integral with the receiver.

 

[Decker9]

On a T3X the base screws are 6x48 and the torque value is 12-14ft/lbs. If a base screw pops through on a Tikka action, that screw could be stripped, depending on how long the base screws are, that come with the base.

I had just bought a 30mm scope and new talleys, that’s when the problem had started. Iv always torqued my screws, but definitely could be a stretched thread doing it I’d think.

 

[Antares]

Take this with a handful of salt - I just bought my tikka and as I was going through learning all the standard maintenance stuff I caught a clip on YouTube about "bolt maintenance" and the guy mentioned specifically light strikes with newer Tikkas and colder weather. Basically, the factory shipping grease can bind up the firing pin. In this case it seems pretty unlikely since you already swapped out the assembly, but perhaps worth another look.

This was my first thought as I was reading this. Is it happening in cold weather, @Jhill1980?

I would strip the bolt apart and hose it down with brake cleaner. Make sure to push the firing pin back and forth through that sealed bushing while squirting brake cleaner. Do several rounds of that until the firing pin starts to feel drier and "grabbier." I know that sounds counterintuitive, but a dry firing pin is going to hit harder than one thats overly greased.

 

[Osprey87]

I had the same issue with a previous tikka t3 that I used to own, excessive oil on the firing pin was the issue. As stated above just clean it with brake cleaner, this issue only showed itself in colder weather

 

[260madman]

If the forward bottom metal action screw is over torqued, it could pop up through the receiver. With Tikka stock action screws, the max torque should not be greater than 32ft/lbs from what I have been told by the after market folks. With an after market stock and aluminum/steel bottom metal, the torque values might change as well as the length of the action screws.

On a T3X the base screws are 6x48 and the torque value is 12-14ft/lbs. If a base screw pops through on a Tikka action, that screw could be stripped, depending on how long the base screws are, that come with the base. If Tikka rings are used no action screws are used since the base is integral with the receiver.

Whoa whoa whoa! In/lbs not ft/lbs. common mistake but there is a big difference.