Tikka help

Junkel87

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Feb 11, 2025
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Looking at getting either a tikka lite or roughtech and I'm wondering if the roughtech is worth the extra $270? From what I can tell the only real difference is the barrel contour and cerekote. This will be used for western elk hunting out to 600 yards. Eventually sometime next year it will most likely be rebarreled to a 6 um or 6-6.5 prc.
 
Looking at getting either a tikka lite or roughtech and I'm wondering if the roughtech is worth the extra $270? From what I can tell the only real difference is the barrel contour and cerekote. This will be used for western elk hunting out to 600 yards. Eventually sometime next year it will most likely be rebarreled to a 6 um or 6-6.5 prc.

If you like the stock, get the Roughtech. Otherwise look at the Eurooptic prices on the lites.


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If you like the stock, get the Roughtech. Otherwise look at the Eurooptic prices on the lites.


____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”
I'll be swapping out the stock either way I got. Eurooptic is where I saw both.
 
Doesn’t the roughtech also have a threaded barrel?

Given that you plan to rebarrel, that wouldn’t really matter unless you want to be able to put a muzzle device on out of the box.
 
It’s not just the stock.

The roughtecs are generally stainless and cerakoted with a D18 profile barrel versus the standard D16 lite and stainless lite. They also come threaded but with too long of barrel lengths for my liking if planning to suppress.

In my opinion, for a hunting gun, the D16 barrel at 20” unsupressed and/or cut to 16” or 18” suppressed is just right for field carry and shooting balance.

The D18 with a suppressor is very nose heavy and should be cut to 16” or 18” for field carry.

I’d buy a stainless or blued lite, cut it to 16”, suppress it, and shoot and hunt the piss out of it until you wear abijt the barrel.

I know you mentioned re-barrel, sorry if it missed it, what was the chambering of the gun you plan to buy?
 
The fact you said you are planning to re-barrel and swap out the stock I would go with the cheaper version.
 
Lipstick on stock, lipstick (cerakote) on metal, fluting on barrel, fluting on bolt, heavier contour, and maybe a little bigger ball on the bolt knob? Nothing really functionally better vs a lite stainless other than I'd bet the heavier d18 contoured barrels are usually easier to shoot tight.
 
Rifle wouldn't be rebarreled until next year or later. I plan on hunting with it this year though with factory barrel. It will be suppressed and I can get barrel cut shorter and threaded for $125. My thoughts on the roughtech was it has a heavier barrel so it wouldn't heat up and start opening up groups as quick as the lite.
 
Rifle wouldn't be rebarreled until next year or later. I plan on hunting with it this year though with factory barrel. It will be suppressed and I can get barrel cut shorter and threaded for $125. My thoughts on the roughtech was it has a heavier barrel so it wouldn't heat up and start opening up groups as quick as the lite.

I have not seen a lite start opening up groups in any meaningful way, but I also tend to shoot 5, check targets, shoot five more, check targets, etc,


____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”
 
Rifle wouldn't be rebarreled until next year or later. I plan on hunting with it this year though with factory barrel. It will be suppressed and I can get barrel cut shorter and threaded for $125. My thoughts on the roughtech was it has a heavier barrel so it wouldn't heat up and start opening up groups as quick as the lite.

I have had my factory lite barrel on my 6.5 Creedmoor so hot you can smell it and it still stacks bullets.
 
Rifle wouldn't be rebarreled until next year or later. I plan on hunting with it this year though with factory barrel. It will be suppressed and I can get barrel cut shorter and threaded for $125. My thoughts on the roughtech was it has a heavier barrel so it wouldn't heat up and start opening up groups as quick as the lite.
Tikka barrels are properly stress relieved and are not susceptible to “groups opening up due to heat” despite what “experts” will tell you.

The D18 is heavier so it’s more “shootable” for “groups” but they aren’t anymore accurate than a D16.
 
Same, my tikka lite barrels dont care temp. Shoot slow or shoot as fast as you can—same size groups.

Now, a heavier gun IS easier to shoot just because its heavy. Id only buy the heavier barrel if you want a heavier gun and/or the balance that goes with a heavy barrel. Fluting might help a barrel cool a little faster for less mirage, although Im not sure I can notice the difference.
 
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