Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

[Bluumoon]

Most are, yes. Some have snapped the internal ones trying to remove actions with them the first time. Subsequent barrels I'd be inclined to try the internal first and if stubborn switch to the external. Internal to install allows for easy use of a torque wrench.

I wouldn’t… snapped a OMR internal wrench on a torque wrench set at 115ft/lbs. OMR said tough luck.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I wouldn’t… snapped a OMR internal wrench on a torque wrench set at 115ft/lbs. OMR said tough luck.

I wouldn't personally try to exceed 100ftlb with one, if it doesn't budge switch to the external.

 

[Nine Banger]

I wouldn’t… snapped a OMR internal wrench on a torque wrench set at 115ft/lbs. OMR said tough luck.

You figure they would work with you when you told them it was on a torque wrench and not a breaker bar.

They are telling everyone to buy theirs over others because it is so strong.

I think your rationale was sound to work up to 115 and see what happens and then order a Wheeler #1 only if you had to.

I have the same internal wrench but got the wheeler right off the rip and got longer bolts to flip it around. We've removed 5 factory tikka barrels so far and had to wail and whack on 2 of them.

 

[BuffaloCreekMachine]

Hey everyone, new to the Rokslide forum and there’s a lot of great info and people on here, thanks for having me!

I have a kit that I make specifically for tikka barrel and action removal. The barrel bushing fits the contour of the barrel so you don’t get any pressure points that tear your tape or scuff the barrel. The action wrench fits on the outside so you don’t risk damaging any of the action internal features. It’s worked well on the rifles I’ve done and I’d love to get some people using them for feedback!

 

[Bluumoon]

You figure they would work with you when you told them it was on a torque wrench and not a breaker bar.

They are telling everyone to buy theirs over others because it is so strong.

I think your rationale was sound to work up to 115 and see what happens and then order a Wheeler #1 only if you had to.

I have the same internal wrench but got the wheeler right off the rip and got longer bolts to flip it around. We've removed 5 factory tikka barrels so far and had to wail and whack on 2 of them.

View attachment 977140

Seemed reasonable to me. Was not a factory barrel. Came off easily w external wrench.

 

[Nine Banger]

Seemed reasonable to me. Was not a factory barrel. Came off easily w external wrench.

PVA lists criteria recommending to torque pre-fits 70-75 lbs. for 223, standard and magnum sized case heads.
(They recommend no more than 100lbs for 338 Lapua sized case head.)

Something I'm pondering:

If you torque their barrels higher than 75lbs, say 80 or 90 lbs., are you making the chamber smaller than it would be at 70-75lbs?

Or are you just stretching the threads more?

 

[TimberHunter]

Pulled my first two Tikka barrels today. One was a barrel that had been removed before so I started with that one to get the setup right, knowing it wouldn’t likely be as tight as the factory barrel I’d attempt after. I used a Viper vise, cut in half (I purposefully cut it so one side was narrower than the other. Mounted the vise on a sturdy bench, used a toilet paper roll cut in half to wrap the barrel, then evenly tightened the vise with the narrow section on the taper and the wider section on the shank about as tight as I could physically get it with a a box end wrench. Wheeler #1 flipped over on the action with pieces of TP tube between action and wrench. Got the wrench tight, but not nearly as tight as the Viper bolts. Oriented the wrench so it was slightly facing downward. One good whack with a 4lb deadblow and it broke free.

I put some Kroil on that one right before I did it but it did not have time to penetrate much at all. Probably 20 minutes max.

The other was a brand new factory barrel. I added a few drops of Kroil daily for about a week with it hanging muzzle down before I tackled it. While I was working on the first one, I put it in the chest freezer. Once I mounted it in the vise, again with a TP tube, I heated the action over the threads with a heat gun. It was warm, but not glowing or anything like that. Got the Wheeler #1 snugged up and gave it a good whack. This one took 2 or 3 before it popped loose.

Overall, the advice here allowed me a drama free, non-marring experience. Thought I’d share for others who were considering doing this for the first time.

Never mind, above posts answered question


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[waspocrew]

Hey everyone, new to the Rokslide forum and there’s a lot of great info and people on here, thanks for having me!

I have a kit that I make specifically for tikka barrel and action removal. The barrel bushing fits the contour of the barrel so you don’t get any pressure points that tear your tape or scuff the barrel. The action wrench fits on the outside so you don’t risk damaging any of the action internal features. It’s worked well on the rifles I’ve done and I’d love to get some people using them for feedback!

How much does your kit cost? My wheeler barrel vice isn’t cutting it - I’ve cranked the bolts down enough that the wood blocks are starting to crack, yet still having the barrel slip.

 

[TimberHunter]

Having the ability to swap barrels may end up costing you money.

Truer words were never spoken


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[BuffaloCreekMachine]

How much does your kit cost? My wheeler barrel vice isn’t cutting it - I’ve cranked the bolts down enough that the wood blocks are starting to crack, yet still having the barrel slip.

$90 for action wrench
$130 for barrel vise
$30 for contoured bushing

 

[TimberHunter]

$90 for action wrench
$130 for barrel vise
$30 for contoured bushing

Maybe do a group buy discount?


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[Stache Attack]

Seemed reasonable to me. Was not a factory barrel. Came off easily w external wrench.

Lee should take care of you email in it was torque on not removal and the stainless must be junk

If you torque their barrels higher than 75lbs, say 80 or 90 lbs., are you making the chamber smaller than it would be at 70-75lbs?

Shouldn’t if shouldered and you follow install specs. A lot of people run 90-110. I’m not a metallurgist but crush force on stainless should be well well below 110.

Always use external wrench to remove factory or prefit barrels

 

[Boreal]

$90 for action wrench
$130 for barrel vise
$30 for contoured bushing

What is the lead time?

 

[mauiarcher]

$90 for action wrench
$130 for barrel vise
$30 for contoured bushing

Is that an external wrench? If so, i’d be interested

 

[BuffaloCreekMachine]

What is the lead time?

I plan to stock them but I’ve been seeing a lot of interest. I can safely say 2 weeks to ship.

 

[BuffaloCreekMachine]

Is that an external wrench? If so, i’d be interested

Yessir, external wrench. It bolts together. The key is it has a matched contour to the action. So you don’t rely on the bolt tension to grip it.