Tikka accurizing for Tikka newbie

[BjornF16]

Just received my first Tikka ever...a T3X Stainless Lite in 7mm-08.

I love the action smoothness and perceived straight back recoil (which seemed lighter than I expected). I'm very impressed overall, but not happy with accuracy seen in first shots (which probably has more to do with ammunition used).

I checked free float...there is some contact midway down forearm but I could still wiggle dollar bill past (so it is minimal clearance).

I had some 7mm-08 ammunition from a few years ago; namely Hornady SuperFormance 139 SST and GMX as well as some Barnes VOR-TX 120 TTSX.

The Hornady ammunition displayed abysmal accuracy on the order of 2-3 MOA for 3 shot groups. Granted, I did not have my usual bench setup but was able to shoot MOA groups with my Kimber MA 280AI using factory Hornady Precision Hunter ammo during the same session.

The Barnes looked better with 5 shot group at 1.2 MOA

I have brass and dies enroute to start hand loading. In the meantime, I plan on getting some Precision Hunter ammo as this has always shown good accuracy in a variety of other guns I have. I also have steel recoil lug on hand and ordered bottom metal from Mountain Tactical.

Besides better factory ammunition and hand loading, what steps should I be looking at to improve accuracy of my T3X?

 

[JollyRoger]

Make sure your action screws are torqued properly.

I used to use 40lbs on the rear and 35lbs on the front based on what was posted on the mountain tactical site. A few here have talked about going up to 60lbs with good results... I’m planning on giving that a try this week.


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[Low_Sky]

Your t3x has a steel recoil lug. No need for the Mountain Tactical unit. Sell it to somebody with a Tikka t3.

Free float the barrel. There are pressure points in the stock a few inches up from the receiver, get rid of them. The tight spot you described is no good. A dollar bill shouldn’t just squeak through. Work on that area.

Get an inch-pound torque driver and consistently torque the action screws.

Accuracy and speed will probably improve a little as the barrel breaks in.


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[BjornF16]

I've relieved the pressure points in stock (reinforcing webbing) and relieved the left side of stock touching barrel. Dollar slides through easily now.

Both action screws were already at 45 in-lbs. That is where I reset them to, starting with rear (25-35-45 increments rear, then front).

So there aren't pillars for action screws?

Does this tend to be an issue in Tikka's?

What about bedding?


EDIT: On a side note...anyone running a Tikka inletted Wildcat Composites stock with CarbonSix barrel?

 

[Lawnboi]

My tikka tightened up a bit going from the factory stock to a pillar bedded mcmillan free floated. That said it shot well with the factory stock but I could alter impact depending on how I was shooting the gun.

First thing I’ve done with every tikka I’ve gotten is fully broken them down and cleaned all the thick oil tikka puts on there off. At the same time I turn down the trigger and torque the screws to a known value.

 

[AkMtnRunner]

It could just be a lemon. There is that 3-shot MOA guarantee. Consider just exchanging it for another.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Shoot it more.

Degrease and get rid of all the oil. Break it down and check the stock for imperfections or interference points. I’m not a fan of the factory stock both ergonomically and performance wise. Some guys have great success with it though so there’s that.

While you have it apart adjust the trigger spring down. Get a torque wrench and torque the action screws to proper tightness. Mine sits perfect at 55 in lbs with the McMillan stock. I’ve heard of guys going as high as 65-70 with the factory stock, I wouldn’t feel comfortable with this but guys do it with success. All trial and error you have to do yourself.

Make sure your optic isn’t causing issues. Clean and degrease your rings and bases. Make sure they are tight enough without going too far over scope tube and base torque specs. Check for parallax issues and tracking. Parallax causes way more issues than most people realize, a lot of guys bring their rifles out for me to take a look at and a simple focus and parallax adjustment solves their grouping issues. Also. Hate to say it but most people just aren’t as good at shooting as they think they are. Particularly with heavier hitting cartridges. Mechanics, practice, confidence, and being comfortable/relaxed continue to prove to be the most important factors in accurate shooting amongst our students.

After you check all of this and get some more rounds through the barrel, clean the barrel with quality cleaning components and then put another 40-60 rounds down range. Try different factory loads and see what gets you close in those 40-60 rounds, this should also get you close to the 200 total round mark where we see most factory barrels really settle in. Also, I always shoot at least 40-60 rounds after a cleaning before taking a rifle on a hunt or any shooting competitions.

Chasing “groups” at 100 yards is an okay starting point but there are so many other factors related to “accuracy”. Determining all of this online is tricky.

Let us know what you find out. Send us some pics of your rifle, your bench set up, and your groups after trying the things I mentioned above.

Good luck but most of all. Have fun!

 

[willfrye027]

Try different ammo. Those you mentioned are what shoots the worst in my t3 30-06. It’s not apples to apples but still worth exploring other rounds, particularly different bullet weights.

 

[sdupontjr]

Depending on what your doing with it, the factory trigger can be adjusted real easy and for a factory trigger is quite nice. I installed an Elay Trigger spring in mine, $9 and it allowed me to adjust my trigger down real low. Nice and crisp.

 

[BjornF16]

Thanks for your replies.

I have:
1. Cleaned up stock high points to fully free float barrel
2. Adjusted trigger pull
3. Degreased action, recoil lug and stock
4. Torqued action screws to 45 in-lbs, alternating rear/front through 25, 35, then 45

When shooting the Tikka, I also took along my Kimber MA 280AI...I was shooting it just sub MOA on the same bench setup. Pretty sure it wasn't all me.

My optic on Tikka is Viper PST 2.5-10x32 FFP, with adjustable parallax. Before shooting at 100 yds, I confirmed no parallax movement. Tally LW mounts are torqued to 24 in-lbs with blue locktite cured 30 hours before shooting. Top rings are at 18 in-lbs. Everything feels solid with scope.

Will be going back to range soon to shoot the Barnes ammo again. Not even going to waste time with the SuperFormance ammo.

 

[fightthenoise]

I have 3 T3x’s, including a 7mm-08 T3x, but it’s the compact model with a 20” barrel. It’s the most accurate rifle I own, but all 3 “shoot like Tikka’s”. I torque both action screws to 55 in/lbs. I remove those weird nubs in the barrel channel. I shoot hand loads with Hornady ELD-X’s 0.020” from the lands but I have to use an M+ magazine to seat them out that far. The 7mm-08 load is with 162’s but I would be surprised if it didn’t shoot the factory 150’s well. In my .223 there is definitely ammo and projectiles it doesn’t like. I’m talking patterns, not groups. That gun took the most experimenting but it shoots what it likes very well. So keep experimenting. Don’t get discouraged. It’s unlikely you have a lemon.

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

Is that what talleys called for with the ring bases? I’m pretty sure my seekins were 52 and sportsmatch are 40+

 

[TxxAgg]

Tagged

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Is that what talleys called for with the ring bases? I’m pretty sure my seekins were 52 and sportsmatch are 40+

I have a bunch of Talley fixed rings and go a hair above their recommended torque specs and use blue loctite. 35 in lbs for bottom screws and 25 in lbs for tops. I believe they call for 30 and 20 from Talley if I remember correctly.

 

[JGRaider]

Thanks for your replies.

I have:
1. Cleaned up stock high points to fully free float barrel
2. Adjusted trigger pull
3. Degreased action, recoil lug and stock
4. Torqued action screws to 45 in-lbs, alternating rear/front through 25, 35, then 45

When shooting the Tikka, I also took along my Kimber MA 280AI...I was shooting it just sub MOA on the same bench setup. Pretty sure it wasn't all me.

My optic on Tikka is Viper PST 2.5-10x32 FFP, with adjustable parallax. Before shooting at 100 yds, I confirmed no parallax movement. Tally LW mounts are torqued to 24 in-lbs with blue locktite cured 30 hours before shooting. Top rings are at 18 in-lbs. Everything feels solid with scope.

Will be going back to range soon to shoot the Barnes ammo again. Not even going to waste time with the SuperFormance ammo.

Did you bother to check if the scope is holding zero/POI or not? That's one of the first things I check.

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

Verify the scope/rings/base. Also try some different ammo.

 

[Breckenridge]

My Tikka 7mm really likes the eldx 162 bullets but needed a good break-in process before the groups began to really shrink up. Have you aggressively cleaned the barrel recently?

 

[BjornF16]

Talley website says the following:

What are your torque recommendations?

Lightweight rings: 17-20 in/lb on ring screws.
Steel fixed rings: 30 in/lb bottom screw, 20 in/lb top screw.
Steel screw lock detachable and quick release ring: 6-48 bottom screws 30 in/lb, 10-32 screw 35 in/lb, top screws 20 in/lb.
Picatinny rings: 20 in/lb on ring, 65 in/lb on locking nut.
Base screw torque can depend on the receiver. Please check with the rifle manufacturer or call us for recommended torque.
Always make sure your torque wrench is calibrated, Talley Mfg is not responsible for damage caused to scopes due to over torquing.

I found this elsewhere on Rokslide: #2

Talley Rings:
base to receiver:20-25in/lbs
ring halves:15-20in/lbs

Let me know if they should be different.

 

[BjornF16]

Here is comparison between yesterday Federal Premium 140 Partition and today (today is vertically oriented pic; yesterday is horizontally oriented pic):

 

[JollyRoger]

Have you tried a 10 shot group? Take your time and make them all count.


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