SWFA Windage Revolution Question

[ldrathman]

Alright ya’ll, I’m assuming the answer to my question is obvious but I just can’t seem to figure it out…so I thought I’d see if anyone on here could help.

I was out at the range this weekend shooting my Ruger AP with a SWFA 3-9. Scope is zero’d at 100yds, I know it’s a solid zero because I was making hits out to 1,000yds fairly easily.

Not sure how I didn’t notice this when I zero’d the scope (did so a while ago), that when zero’d my windage cap shows the 2nd revolution maker instead of the first (see pic).

When I zero’d there’s no way my correction was 2+ revolutions. And having it zero’d on the 2nd revolution is annoying as I have to remember that 2 is home base not 1.

My thinking is that my zero is my zero, no matter how I slip the turret cap, my zero will always be “x” number of clicks from neutral. Am I being an idiot or is there some function of the turret cap/revolution marks I’m completely missing that guarantees zero to be on the 1 revolution?

Thanks


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[BAKPAKR]

I have my windage knob wrapped with electrical tape so it wouldn’t bother me…

 

[PNWGATOR]

After you zero at 100 and slip your turrets, why would you ever touch your windage turret while shooting or even care which revolution it’s zeroed on?

 

[Schaaf]

Full disclosure, I've never even held a 3-9 but I'm guessing you're incorrect on thinking of them as revolutions from zero rather than just simple revolution indicators. I'm guessing it's just a default number system that you're supposed to use to remember which rotation your zero is on and you're probably somewhere in the middle.

Basically, the only time you would be down on the one is if you had to make an extreme adjustment to the left to reach zero.

 

[Choupique]

Mines on the 4th or 5th if I recall correctly. It's on the list of things I elect to not worry about.

 

[ldrathman]

After you zero at 100 and slip your turrets, why would you ever touch your windage turret while shooting or even care which revolution it’s zeroed on?

Not that functionally it matters much as long as the optic is zero'd, but in my head the logic of it didn't make sense when assuming it worked the same as as the elevation knob - just ocd about my optics.

 

[id_jon]

I imagine it is supposed to be roughly in the middle range, for if you need to dial wind and/or make a big correction to get your zero.

 

[MidGAHunter]

I have my windage knob wrapped with electrical tape so it wouldn’t bother me…

This ^^^

 

[Wrench]

Those are simply references for your travel. If you are bottomed out, that's not a good thing for windage.

 

[Antares]

I have a piece of tape on my scope that tells me what revolution my zero is in case I get lost. I think my zero is the 5th rev for both elevation and windage. It all depends on your mounts, whether they are canted, etc.

I’m honestly more surprised that you’re zeroed on the first elevation rev than the the fact that your windage is on the second rev. That gives you a TON of elevation. Do you have a 30 MOA rail on there or something?

 

[ldrathman]

I have a piece of tape on my scope that tells me what revolution my zero is in case I get lost. I think my zero is the 5th rev for both elevation and windage. It all depends on your mounts, whether they are canted, etc.

I’m honestly more surprised that you’re zeroed on the first elevation rev than the the fact that your windage is on the second rev. That gives you a TON of elevation. Do you have a 30 MOA rail on there or something?

20 MOA rail


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[waldo9190]

^^ If you were to mount that scope with a 0 MOA rail you would (probably) be zeroed in the 2-4 rev range vs. right at the first. Neither are "wrong". Those lines are just for reference for when you need to make large elevation/windage corrections.