Swfa 3-9 diopter adjustment

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
4,220
Location
Central Arizona
Yes please. I should have some time in the stand tomorrow to work on it.
The biggest enemy when adjusting the diopter (reticle focus) is staying "in the reticle" too long... If you're looking at the reticle for more than about 2 seconds when adjusting for focus, that's too long. Our eyes are incredible at forcing things come into focus, we want to avoid this here.

Get your rifle into a comfortable position with the scope pointed at a clear blue sky. You want nothing else in the sight picture other than blue sky and the reticle. You don't want it set up where you have hunch or get into an awkward position to get a sight picture. I normally set my reticle focus before the scope is mounted; I have a portable mounting rig that holds the scope for me and let's me stand up to set reticle focus.

On the fixed 6 SWFA, which has parallax adjustment, turn that to the infinity setting. On the 3-9, there is no parallax focus so skip this step... As an FYI when I last spoke to a SWFA rep they said the parallax is "set" to 100 yards on the 3-9 HD's. This won't affect setting the diopter focus.

Look at the blue sky with your naked eyes for about 5 seconds, immediately go into the scope and look at the reticle. It will likely not be "clear" to your eye. It will look "thin", "faint", or "out of focus". Loosen the tightening ring so the diopter can be turned freely. Make a 1/8th turn adjustment (45ish degrees) to the diopter in either the "+" or "-" direction. Repeat the process... What we are trying to do here is "get it close" and determine if we need to head towards the "+" adjustment or the "-"adjustment, before we make fine tuning adjustments.

If you notice little to no difference in the reticle clarity after the 1/8th turn, repeat the process and make another 1/8th turn adjustment in the same direction. You will find that with each 1/8th turn adjustment the reticle is either getting slightly clearer, or slightly less clear to your eye. You will then know that you are either heading in the proper direction, or if you need to be turning the diopter in the other direction.

Once you start to notice the reticle becoming more clear and bold with 1/8th turn adjustments, it's time to start fine tuning. During this entire process you need to be looking to the clear blue sky with your naked eyes very often before going into the scope. Remember to check very quickly for reticle focus and back out of the scope quickly.

Once you're happy with how the reticle is focusing, start focusing your naked eyes on objects at different distances. Look at something 10 yards away with just your eyes, look at something 100 yards away, and then go into the reticle with it still focused on the sky. See if the reticle is still in focus, make very fine adjustments to the diopter if needed. Next, look at the sky with your naked eyes again and go back into the reticle, it should be very crisp and take ZERO effort for you to see every line, bracket, diamond, etc. in the reticle. Switch back and forth between looking at 10 yards, 100 yards, and the sky and going into the reticle. Take your time and make very fine adjustments as needed.

I've done this process with two Fixed 6 scopes and two 3-9'snow. Locked them in, haven't touched them since. The reticles are very easy to see, especially when compared to how they came from SWFA. They were unusable in factory setting. They are now very crisp and look like a bold, black reticle; where as before they were thin, washed out, and almost "greyish" in color.
 
OP
H
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
2,053
The biggest enemy when adjusting the diopter (reticle focus) is staying "in the reticle" too long... If you're looking at the reticle for more than about 2 seconds when adjusting for focus, that's too long. Our eyes are incredible at forcing things come into focus, we want to avoid this here.

Get your rifle into a comfortable position with the scope pointed at a clear blue sky. You want nothing else in the sight picture other than blue sky and the reticle. You don't want it set up where you have hunch or get into an awkward position to get a sight picture. I normally set my reticle focus before the scope is mounted; I have a portable mounting rig that holds the scope for me and let's me stand up to set reticle focus.

On the fixed 6 SWFA, which has parallax adjustment, turn that to the infinity setting. On the 3-9, there is no parallax focus so skip this step... As an FYI when I last spoke to a SWFA rep they said the parallax is "set" to 100 yards on the 3-9 HD's. This won't affect setting the diopter focus.

Look at the blue sky with your naked eyes for about 5 seconds, immediately go into the scope and look at the reticle. It will likely not be "clear" to your eye. It will look "thin", "faint", or "out of focus". Loosen the tightening ring so the diopter can be turned freely. Make a 1/8th turn adjustment (45ish degrees) to the diopter in either the "+" or "-" direction. Repeat the process... What we are trying to do here is "get it close" and determine if we need to head towards the "+" adjustment or the "-"adjustment, before we make fine tuning adjustments.

If you notice little to no difference in the reticle clarity after the 1/8th turn, repeat the process and make another 1/8th turn adjustment in the same direction. You will find that with each 1/8th turn adjustment the reticle is either getting slightly clearer, or slightly less clear to your eye. You will then know that you are either heading in the proper direction, or if you need to be turning the diopter in the other direction.

Once you start to notice the reticle becoming more clear and bold with 1/8th turn adjustments, it's time to start fine tuning. During this entire process you need to be looking to the clear blue sky with your naked eyes very often before going into the scope. Remember to check very quickly for reticle focus and back out of the scope quickly.

Once you're happy with how the reticle is focusing, start focusing your naked eyes on objects at different distances. Look at something 10 yards away with just your eyes, look at something 100 yards away, and then go into the reticle with it still focused on the sky. See if the reticle is still in focus, make very fine adjustments to the diopter if needed. Next, look at the sky with your naked eyes again and go back into the reticle, it should be very crisp and take ZERO effort for you to see every line, bracket, diamond, etc. in the reticle. Switch back and forth between looking at 10 yards, 100 yards, and the sky and going into the reticle. Take your time and make very fine adjustments as needed.

I've done this process with two Fixed 6 scopes and two 3-9'snow. Locked them in, haven't touched them since. The reticles are very easy to see, especially when compared to how they came from SWFA. They were unusable in factory setting. They are now very crisp and look like a bold, black reticle; where as before they were thin, washed out, and almost "greyish" in color.
Yes that is understood, but how does that affect your image clarity at 100 vs 600-1000?
 

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
4,220
Location
Central Arizona
Yes that is understood, but how does that affect your image clarity at 100 vs 600-1000?
Image clarity or reticle clarity? Neither is an issue on either the 3-9 or fixed 6 for me once the reticle focus is properly set.

You honestly don’t need to set the parallax adjustment on the fixed 6 either for yardage. I leave it on 100 and have killed deer at 30 yards and 530 yards. Not an issue.
 
OP
H
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
2,053
Image clarity or reticle clarity? Neither is an issue on either the 3-9 or fixed 6 for me once the reticle focus is properly set.

You honestly don’t need to set the parallax adjustment on the fixed 6 either for yardage. I leave it on 100 and have killed deer at 30 yards and 530 yards. Not an issue.

Image/target clarity. That's what this thread was about. Having the diopter set correctly on my scope causes the target to not be as clear as it be should be at a farther distance, like 300 or 600.
 

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
4,220
Location
Central Arizona
Image/target clarity. That's what this thread was about. Having the diopter set correctly on my scope causes the target to not be as clear as it be should be at a farther distance, like 300 or 600.
So the reticle is in focus but the target is blurry? I can’t say that any of mine have that issue sorry.

I’d be happy to take a look at your scope if you don’t want to wait a year for SWFA to look at it. I’ll be hunting for 3 weeks of November but will be back for thanksgiving and after.
 

5811

WKR
Joined
Jan 25, 2023
Messages
388
Yes that is understood, but how does that affect your image clarity at 100 vs 600-1000?
On the 3-9, there is no parallax focus so skip this step... As an FYI when I last spoke to a SWFA rep they said the parallax is "set" to 100 yards on the 3-9 HD's.
It might be a function of the 100 yard fixed parralax vs 600-1000, but if your diopter is out of adjustment even a little bit, you might force-focus on that, and the image will be blurry. That might not show up as pronounced at closer distances.
 

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
4,220
Location
Central Arizona
It might be a function of the 100 yard fixed parralax vs 600-1000, but if your diopter is out of adjustment even a little bit, you might force-focus on that, and the image will be blurry. That might not show up as pronounced at closer distances.
Yes this is likely what’s happening but the image should not be “blurry” or distorted. It should still easily be clear enough to see targets.
 
OP
H
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
2,053
So the reticle is in focus but the target is blurry? I can’t say that any of mine have that issue sorry.

I’d be happy to take a look at your scope if you don’t want to wait a year for SWFA to look at it. I’ll be hunting for 3 weeks of November but will be back for thanksgiving and after.

Yes... Not blurry blurry, but not as clear as it could be. It's useable.

Formidilosus made that offer as well, but I haven't wanted to take the scope off due to having my backup mounted on something else and the issue isn't so bad it's unusable.

It might be a function of the 100 yard fixed parralax vs 600-1000, but if your diopter is out of adjustment even a little bit, you might force-focus on that, and the image will be blurry. That might not show up as pronounced at closer distances.

That's kind of what I was thinking
 

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
4,220
Location
Central Arizona
Yes... Not blurry blurry, but not as clear as it could be. It's useable.

Formidilosus made that offer as well, but I haven't wanted to take the scope off due to having my backup mounted on something else and the issue isn't so bad it's unusable.



That's kind of what I was thinking
Okay cool. If Form offered that’s an even better bet than having me look at it.
 

RayF

FNG
Joined
Oct 1, 2023
Messages
18
I know this is relatively old, but felt compelled to provide my experience. My best results came using mxgsfmdpx’s recommendations with a slightly different approach. Using only what he provided, I was still have problems with picture clarity between the different magnification powers of the 3-9, but I was setting it up with magnification set to 9. When I dialed the magnification down to 3, the reticle AND picture came out of focus (I was using an object 60 yds away for picture clarity).

After a few moments of frustration, I stumbled through a few different ways before coming up with a solution. This is what worked for me:

1. Start off with the power dialed all the way down to 3 and the diopter dialed down.

2. Using mxgsfmdpx’s recommendation of using the sky and frequent breaks, I dialed the diopter out until I got a sharp reticle. I did not use the 1/8th turn method, though. There was still a wide margin of spin where the reticle remained sharp. I made a mental note of the amount of turn the diopter remained sharp(ish). It was a little over 180* of total spin.

3. With the reticle sharp and the magnification still dialed to 3, I looked at an object approximately 100yds away and used mxgsfmdpx’s method of 1/8th turns (with frequent breaks) until the smallest detail of the object was as sharp as it could get.

4. I increased the magnification to 9 and verified the picture and the reticle remained sharp.

5. Locked her in and called it done.

Of course, the object at 60yds was now a little out of focus, but that’s the downside of a fixed parallax. I haven’t had a chance to glass anything past 300yds, but up to 300, she’s more than good enough for hunting.

HTH
 
Last edited:
Top