STOCK Glock G29 getting primer strikes which don't ignite cartridge?

TheGDog

TheGDog

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OK, y'day at the range, my G29 SF (Commiefornia) must've had like 5 (presumably) light primer strikes occur.

Most were during using the BLAZER range ammo. Another was with the Sellier & Bellot range ammo.

WHAT do I need to be looking at or servicing w/in this weapon?

I typically clean them after each and every range use.

The weapon is Bone stock. Nothing aftermarket on it, yet.
 
Normally I’d say it’s the ammo and still could be, but 5 is a lot across 2 different types. If you want some piece of mind just replace the striker spring, inexpensive and easily done.
 
11boo said:
First time with that Glock? Did you buy it NIB?
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Yes, NIB. First ever Glock purchase for me. Specifically with intended purpose be for Woods Carry, to replace the heavy 4" Ruger .357 Mag to shed 70z and gain 4 more rounds.
 
As others said, make sure that area is clean and dry.

Also, hard primers are a thing. I have seen them across a wide variety of manufacturers. PMC sent me a new case of 9mm after I had several boxes worth of light strikes.
 
Ok.. so sounds like first order of business is inspect firing pin channel and ensure it's as it should be.

If not? fix it, then try again, observe if no light strikes again.

If firing pin channel seems to be in right conditions. i.e. Not wet in there. Then consider doing warranty work. Which... I'd assume is something you contact Glock about directly??
 
sndmn11 said:
Don't lube it!!!!
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Thx for the vid link. Yeah, some bit of "wet" had managed to get into there. w/ swabs I got all the "wet" out. and duly noted the port holes thru which the CLP would have entered into there, so I'll know to avoid all them in the future. Thx.
 
Your lube points should be four, just four, teeniest drops of lube in the whole pistol. Maybe twice a year.

The muzzle side slide rail on each side, the interior top of the slide between port and muzzle, the connector/trigger bar rub.
 
Did you try shooting the light strikes again?

You can also test after reassembly by dropping an appropriately sized object (such as a pencil or small piece of dowel rod) down the barrel and dry fire while holding the gun upwards. It should launch with some authority. Obviously all gun safety rules apply.
 
Getting the impression I'll have to dissasemble the firing pin mechanishm, in order to insure I've gotten out all possible lube+powder residue. Hopefully this weekemd will present w opportunity to attack that.
 
TheGDog said:
Getting the impression I'll have to dissasemble the firing pin mechanishm, in order to insure I've gotten out all possible lube+powder residue. Hopefully this weekemd will present w opportunity to attack that.
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Nothing to it, just make sure not to lose the little plunger spring that might fall out or one of the cup ends on the firing pin assembly. I’ve had both come up missing when reassembling.
 
I'm probably gonna have a shop go thru it, and also have 'em put on some night-sights while they're at it. Keep meaning to do that, keep getting busy w/ work stuff atm.

Meanwhile, I'm seriously considering getting another P365 to takeover sidearm duties for local woods out here in SoCal. Been getting good accuracy with the one we already have... and It'd shave off yet ANOTHER 9oz more of carry weight.

And I believe it could handle everything out here in SoCal with some Underwood Xtreme's.
 
I hear a lot of people lube the firing pin channel and extractor, that hole opposite the firing pin stop people squirt lube in but thats actually to drain water (should your gun get dunked it will still work). The entire slide assembly should run dry, never lube. Also dry off the extractor as I hear a saturated extractor can cause light strikes.
Johnny Glock has a great instruction on lubing the Glock and mentions the lite strike issue (3:48) caused by lubing the slide internals.

 
I did note A LOT of "gook" (powder residue + lube, into a sludge) built up underneath and around the extractor's folded-over hook, if you will. Spent some time swabbing that out of there.

Eventually I'll need to break-down the firing pin assembly itself, in order to ensure there isn't any build-up in anything involved with that.

BUT... even without the slide on, actuating the trigger after resetting it directly, it's not actuating with anywhere near the "authority" it should have, no "Snap!" to it, in my estimation. And I'm thinking THAT is actually the problem.

So, eventually gonna go get it looked at, and in the meantime gonna probably purchase another P365 to carry.

So I can then use the other 1st one we've got, to carry around in it's place (since I've practiced with it and know it's trustworthy), until I know this G29 is fully sorted-out. And that way if I'm carrying the first one, if Mama wants to participate in a group hike overnighter with her "adventure squad" of girliefriends, she still has a P365 avail to bring with. Since I know she can operate that pistol fine.

(As an example, we tested, and she can't easily depress the cylinder release on the Ruger LCRx .357 my son asked for as his lightweight woods-carry sidearm, because of some double-jointed / arthritis finger-joint issues she presents with).
 
Many years back I had a G20 that had light primer strikes, about 50/50 on firing or not. I purchased it used. I spoke to Glock, they sent me a shipping label, I shipped it to them, had it back quickly, perfect since. No note on what the issue was and I didn't ask.

You can check everything out yourself, and likely correct it, but sending it to Glock was quick and easy in my experience.
 
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