Stabilizer?

[Marshfly]

Stabilizers also can, if setup correctly, significantly decrease both the time for the bow to settle after you draw and anchor and during wind gusts as well as cut out some of the movement you get from wind pushing the bow around.

 

[oranje1]

another concept to consider: Option's Quivaliser

i found it quite comfy to lug around while spot-and-stalking. as for accuracy discussions ("people put a stabiliser on without even knowing if its actually helping them") of course a stabilizer will help and the more weight at the end and the longer, the better. only reason to go shorter is maneuverability, fitting a class at a competition, or if you can't effectively hold the bow up because of your stabiliser

its just physics - you're stopping the bow from rotating or jerking via the weight at the end increasing the inertia needed to rotate

 

[apizza]

Whatever gives you the most balanced bow. In my case my vxr 31.5 is super front dippy when im holding on the target. So I only run a back bar (also offsets the quiver).

 

[tdjohnson15413]

Cutter stabilizers are the best I've found. 15" on the front and 12" out the back. It is a little bit much to pack around, but its super when drawing back and your bubble level is centered right up.

 

[cq0302]

Cutter stabilizers are the best I've found. 15" on the front and 12" out the back. It is a little bit much to pack around, but its super when drawing back and your bubble level is centered right up.

Second this

 

[craigrh13]

Anyone here shoot a Lift X? If so what stabilizer(s) are you running if any?

 

[NXTZ]

Anyone here shoot a Lift X? If so what stabilizer(s) are you running if any?

Lift x 33, I’m using a quivalizer and really like it. Tried just a 10” front bar with a couple ounces and much preferred the quivalizer. If I switch back to a traditional bar it’ll probably be 15” front, and maybe use the 10” as a back bar. But, the quivalizer has been great so far, and less weight, expense and pieces that a front bar/back bar and mount.

 

[Huntnfishing]

What is the criteria that you want for a balanced bow?

 

[nphunter]

I stopped using stabilizers for hunting about 5 years ago, inside of 80 they don't make enough difference for me to carry the extra weight in a hunting situation.

 

[apizza]

I stopped using stabilizers for hunting about 5 years ago, inside of 80 they don't make enough difference for me to carry the extra weight in a hunting situation.

Do you just detach your quiver before shooting? My TS quiver gives a ton of weight bias so you either torque your wrist every time or I'm stuck with a back bar

 

[RC_]

Do you just detach your quiver before shooting? My TS quiver gives a ton of weight bias so you either torque your wrist every time or I'm stuck with a back bar

I'm someone who likes to be confident with my quiver on but prefers to take it off if given the chance. A back bar makes balance easy but brings my set-up right now to 9+ lbs which is just too heavy for me to lug around and tires me out too quickly practicing. Past few weeks I've been experimenting with what Griv mentions in the below video (need to watch for a minute or two) around "pinching" the grip between your thumb and forefinger when shooting in the wind to keep the bow from tilting. Thus far it's had the same effect with a quiver. Helps keep me balanced and when doing it right, I don't really seem to introduce any torque the way I used to when compensating with my wrist to keep the bow level. If you always keep your quiver on, a back bar is probably easiest but if you fall into the sometimes on / sometime off club, this might help.

 

[nphunter]

Do you just detach your quiver before shooting? My TS quiver gives a ton of weight bias so you either torque your wrist every time or I'm stuck with a back bar

I’ve never shot without it. I don’t notice anything, I just draw, settle into my anchor, put the pin on target and then just stare at the target and my mind kind of goes from the target to the bubble. I very seldom have left right misses, my most common error is dropping my bow arm due to lack of follow though and hitting a little low.

 

[AlwaysChasinTailNHorns]

I run the AAE Mountain series I got a 12 inch bar on the front attached to a quick connect 10 degree down set and the back bar is attached to the AAE gripper and it’s 10 inches. I’ve got more weight on the front and run my bars at a similar height level on the bow to distribute weight evenly (I have a lower attachment location on the riser but use the higher one). The back bar is there to really balance out my tight spot quiver when it’s full and I have it angled out at 48 degrees, for me that keeps my sight bubble perfectly level in my hand and at full draw so I don’t have to correct too much leaning and torque. Hope this helps AAE makes some killer stabs!

 

[apizza]

I’ve never shot without it. I don’t notice anything, I just draw, settle into my anchor, put the pin on target and then just stare at the target and my mind kind of goes from the target to the bubble. I very seldom have left right misses, my most common error is dropping my bow arm due to lack of follow though and hitting a little low.

Fair enough! For the bow arm drop think about the front shoulder, drop it and lock the scalpula back itll rule out the shoulder moving.

 

[nphunter]

Fair enough! For the bow arm drop think about the front shoulder, drop it and lock the scalpula back itll rule out the shoulder moving.

Thanks for the tip

 

[Athor119]

One general rule I’ve seen is a basically length by weight equilibrium calc for front to back balancing. So a 12” bar with two ounces would need three ounces on a 8” bar. But I’ve notice guys typically add 50% more weight to the back than that calc would suggest. In the end it will be entirely about feel. Would recommend starting with some weight on the front, and tuning with weights in the back until it feels balanced and shoots holes through paper.

Agree with this approach. 1. Determine correct bending moment to balance your setup, length stabilizer x the weight at end. 2. Determine length of stabilizer that works for the type of hunting your doing and add the amount of weight to this length that gets the same amount of bending calculated in step one.

 

[Huntnfishing]

Agree with this approach. 1. Determine correct bending moment to balance your setup, length stabilizer x the weight at end. 2. Determine length of stabilizer that works for the type of hunting your doing and add the amount of weight to this length that gets the same amount of bending calculated in step one.

Do you all find that when you first add stabilizers that it affects the tune of your bow any?

 

[Patriot2]

I just added a quiver and small, short front stabilizer tonight and yes it affected my tune. I went from shooting bareshaft bullet holes in paper at 12 yards to a 3/4" nock right tear with the stuff added. Moved the rest to the left about 0.010" and got it back to bullet holes. If you care about your bow tune, you just gotta have our own paper testing rig in my opinion.................

 

[TDG15]

I like a 15" bar w/ 3oz in the front and 8" bar w/ 6oz in the back. If I'm in a tree stand or saddle, I'll swap the 15" for a 12"

 

[ChuckC]

Anyone here shoot a Lift X? If so what stabilizer(s) are you running if any?

I have a Lift 29.5 that I have an AAE Mtn series 10” on front with 8 degree down quick disconnect. On the back stabilizer mount hole, I have a small Simms deresonator with an Axcel 5oz tungsten weight threaded into it. It puts enough weight below and behind my hand to balance well without running a back bar.