Introduction
The first time I saw image stabilized binoculars was many years ago when Canon introduced some to the market. I was a photographer at the time so was very familiar with the capability that IS brought to the table. But the Canon’s were weird looking to me, and their bulk did not appeal to me from a hunting perspective. I also never actually got to try a set, so I just passed them by.
Some years later, Sig released their initial version of a stabilized bino, and a friend that worked with the Texas A&M shooting team told me I should check them out. I only had a few minutes with them on a city street, but I thought they had some promise, but still was not sold.
Fast forward a few years and I began reading reviews that seemed impressive. I talked to my contacts at Sig, and they suggested I take another look. So I met up with them at a TAC event and got to check out the newest versions. I was particularly interested in the latest HDX Pro iteration, as I thought the enhanced IS system and larger objective lenses would be quite useful on the higher magnification models.
Looking through them, I was sufficiently impressed with the pro’s from a first impression and had some ideas on how they might bring some efficiencies to some of my hunts, so I got a set from Sig to check out. They are available in 14x, 16x, and 18x, all with 50mm objectives. For my intended use, I wanted the most magnification, so I chose the 18 power pro’s.
It’s important to note that I was not intending to use these as a replacement for my 10 powers, which also serve as my ranging solution. The reason is mainly due to field of view, but I also suspected under low light conditions, the 18’s would likely die off pretty quickly on very distant targets.
My intention was to test and see how they would do lightening my pack by removing my spotter and tripod under specific conditions. That is, no, I would not leave my 70 power spotter behind if I was hunting in Southwest Colorado. But in most places where I hunt in Texas, I really don’t need 70 power, but definitely could use more than 10. So some 18’s where I don’t need a tripod looked like a potential solution, and being able to leave the weight of my spotter and tripod out of my pack sounded great
Whats in the box

The Zulus are pretty straightforward, so they don’t come with a lot of accessories, though some decent caps to protect the glass would be a great addition.
The Zulu’s come in a carrying case which provides pretty good protection, but adds bulk to an already bulky item. They also come with a carrying strap, two batteries, and have some little caps that cover the eye pieces for shipping (they don’t stay on on their own) and that’s mostly it, other than the usual marketing stuff you get. Unlike RF bino’s, there is not a lot of complexity here, so the package is pretty straightforward. The case it comes in is quite protective, and as there are no real covers to protect the glass, I found myself carrying the Zulu’s in my pack in the case….something that is sub-optimal for sure….but better than leaving the glass to get ground into the sand, sticks, and rocks at the bottom of my pack. Browsing their site, I noted they do offer objective covers for the marine version, something I definitely would like to have, but I don’t know that there is a solution for the eye pieces. I would definitely like to have all the glass covered, doing so would save me the weight, bulk, and extra time in dealing with the zippered storage case.
Physical Description

Though quite a bit taller, they are not any wider than my 10k’s, and they weigh almost exactly the same.
While there are certainly larger binos, these are not small. I don’t have a set of conventional 15’s or 18’s to compare them to, but they are definitely on the beefy side compared to my 10’s, particularly in their length. Of course, when compared to a spotter and tripod, life is good in this regard. I just mention it in regards to those that might want to grab a set of the 14’s or 16’s to run in a chest rig.
Weight wise, they weigh in at 2 lbs 2 ozs. Actually not nearly as heavy as I expected. My 10k’s weigh 2lbs 1 oz. And, of course comparing that weight to my spotter and tripod, which come in at 8 lbs 4 ozs, it’s a drastic difference. And yes, the spotter brings a whole other level of performance that the Zulus can’t approach, but the point is when that extreme magnification is not needed or even useful, there is the potential to save some significant weight with the Zulus and still have a large increase in magnification vis a vis your 8’s or 10’s.
Control wise, the button to turn IS on and off is kind of where you would expect the focus wheel to be. The focus wheel is moved much forward, closer to the end of the objective body. Nothing wrong here, but it’s something you have to get used to coming from conventional binos. There is also a diopter adjustment on the right eye piece, which is fairly straightforward, and the eye-cups rotate up to adjust eye relief.

Controls are very straight-foward and well laid out once you get used to them in comparison to standard binoculars.
The one thing that is noticeably absent is a tripod mount. Sig does have an external device you can strap on to the binos for this purpose, but this looks bulky compared to a simple stud. I guess the idea is that you don’t need a tripod to hold them steady, but there are times when it’s nice to have the weight of the bino on a tripod you are already carrying, or perhaps you want to lock it on one spot for an extended period and not have to re-aquire the target every time. It’s definitely not a deal-breaker, but it seems like a really small, simple thing that would add some utility.
Performance
Image Stabilization
To get right to the point, the image stabilization performance on these has been outstanding. I wondered how good it would be on a relatively light 18x bino, but it did not disappoint. Unlike previous models, there is one switch you turn on and it auto toggles between two levels of stabilization. You do not have to quick cycle the switch to kick up the stabilization, it handles it on it’s own. I was a little incredulous how this would work in real life at first, but I found it to work well. In truth, what surprised me is that due to the IS, I can actually handhold these more steadily than I can my 10x binos. The IS I am familiar with from when I was a photographer (many years ago) was not this good, though I imagine IS on current pro camera lenses has much improved. Still, it is impressive. It is interesting to note that Sig does offer IS in some of their more conventional offerings. When I asked what the difference was, I was told that this bino design does not shift the objective lenses, but does its stabilization at the prism level, which allows much more effective stabilization. Hence the different form factor.
In terms of battery life, the pro’s use two AA batteries, one on each barrel for balance and ergonomics. How long do they last? I really don’t know. They are supposed to last 40 hours. I have used these a bunch and haven’t had to change them yet. Part of that is due to the auto-off feature. After 10 minutes, it automatically turns off the IS so if you forget to turn them off and head down the mountain, it will not drain your battery trying to stabilize itself. Only thing is that during long glassing periods, it’s a little annoying when the IS shuts off and the image bounces around until you either flip the power switch off, or just cycle it and the IS kicks in again. But overall, I have no complaints on their implementation of IS on these, very effective, been great on battery life, and easy to use.





