Should I buy this F-250?

[Schmo]

In light of my recent thread, I’m posting this thread to try to get some info as soon as possible. From my other F-250 thread, and plenty of other research, I’ve determined that I want an F-250 with the 6.2L V8. I wasn’t shopping just yet, but spotted a truck on Saturday when I was in town, and it seems to be checking out so far. Please don’t chime in with your opinion, unless it actually pertains to what I’m asking. If there’s something I should know, then please tell me.

The truck:
2018 F-250 XL
6R100 tranny
4x4
Short bed
Supercab
128,000 miles

It was a fleet lease its entire life, and 1 owner. I have run CarFax, and routine maintenance was done. Oil changes every 8,000 miles (I’m assuming synthetic was used, but I don’t know that). Routine inspections and recalls were performed. It was used in the oil industry in Oklahoma. I know some oil trucks live a hard life, but this one seems to be very well taken care of. No accidents, clean title, and consistent maintenance with no major repairs. The body is in excellent condition. Only two little dents, close together, and unnoticeable when I looked it over the first time. Other than that, the body is almost like new. The cab is dirty from dust/dirt, but no holes or tears in the seats. I have test driven it twice, and it rides and drives very nice (feels like it needs a rotate & balance). Transmission shifts smooth. When I started it this morning, it had been sitting over the weekend without being started, and no noticeable engine noises or anything to be worried about. I couldn’t see any seals seeping or leaking, everything looked to be bone dry. 4x4 works great, as well as the diff lock. It has an L-K centrifuge in it for testing crude oil. The main thing I’m asking about is the idle hours. 6700 hours on the engine, with 4,000 being idle hours. I know that’s high for the mileage, but I also know that Ford’s idle psi is 20-30 for the oil, so it should have good lube. With a cold startup going well, and it running great, should I be concerned about 4,000 idle hours on a 6.2? 128k miles currently, and I would be looking to put 50k - 100k miles on it before upgrading. It does need a new front bumper (it’s dented in, but nothing structural), and I’ll need to find a back seat for it (they took it out to allow for the centrifuge). My impression is that the truck has been well maintained, and that it was driven by a technician who didn’t abuse it, and just used it to do his job. Purchase price would be $17,500. Selling the centrifuge would bring roughly $2,000. So that would bring the truck price down to $15,500, which seems very cheap for a 2018 with 128k miles. Your thoughts?

 

[FlyingRhino]

I'm far from experienced with Ford gassers, but we have a handful of Ford 6.2's at work (also oilfield). They rack up quite a few idle hours sitting on location running all day. I'm not aware of them having any issues due to idle time though. They're probably higher mileage than what you're looking at. I drove one as a spare for a few weeks while my truck was getting warranty work (Chevy has a host of their own problems right now) and it seemed to do just fine.

 

[StuckInTheEast]

Idle time is run time...run time causes wear...8k oil changes on something with that much idle time would concern me. The 6r100, while solid overall, is known for some issues with torque converter bearings, I can certainly see extended idle time contribute to a failure there. Seals/gaskets will be compromised by the idle hours as well....that being said, its a solid platform with few major mechanical failures short of some valve springs and broken exhaust manifolds....so its not quite the gamble some other engines would be.
If it were a diesel Id be more leary about the idle time.
Its good you knew to check the hrs, alot of used car lots pedal fleet trucks with "low mileage" but 2-300k+ worth of idle time hoping Joe Schmo off the street isnt wise enough to think about it or know what's normal.
While not every fleet truck is white...but if its white and used...make extra sure you check the hrs.
Its cheap for the "mileage" because the idle hrs put the engine well over 200k miles worth of use...if you still think its fair, go for it, just be prepared. It might be great for a bunch of miles, it might eat your wallet next week...its a used truck with alot of runtime
Be ready to replace steering linkage, resistor pills/plugs/wires and rear differential bearings at any time. If there's any kind of whining noise from bell housing that increases with engine speed, be ready to pull trans and replace torque converter and bearing it rides on in front of transmission.

 

[Schmo]

Yeah I’m just trying to decide what to do. Tough decision. Everything else on the truck checks out.

 

[eamyrick]

My work truck is a 2019 with the same specs except long bed. Mine has 95k with zero issues. I am on my 4th personally owned f-150 and would never buy one with 125k miles but would not hesitate with the 250.

 

[Jimmy]

I'd buy it

 

[TaperPin]

Yeah I’m just trying to decide what to do. Tough decision. Everything else on the truck checks out.

The thing about trucks that idle a lot is they burn a lot of oil because the manifold vacuum is high and it sucks oil past the rings and valve guides. Back when I was riding around on a BLM brush truck, we idled all shift at times creeping around the perimeter of a fire, and used a quart of oil every day. Oil change interval might not matter if they are pouring a lot of fresh oil in every week.

That’s known to do three things. Carbon up the combustion chamber, carbon up valve stems, and carbon up the compression rings.

Personally, I’d take it to a shop for a compression and leak down test, and look in a few bores with a scope to see just how much carbon there is. This will show if carbon on the valve seats is preventing a good seal as well as the condition of compression rings. A stuck ring may stay stuck. A valve leaking because of carbon buildup on the seats may stay that way if the rings aren’t sealing well and continue adding carbon. If it checks out I’d think you’re home free.

 

[TaperPin]

Oh, and the cats may be partially plugged. A back pressure test through an upstream o2 sensor hole would show how much.

 

[TaperPin]

Not every shop has one, but a pressure transducer screwed in a spark plug and a Pico scope can also show a lot of information about the health of the engine including compression and exhaust back pressure.

 

[Schmo]

If I take it to a shop for a pre-purchase inspection, they will check suspension, leaks, brakes, run a computer diagnostic, etc. Would the computer diagnostic pick up on anything engine/transmission related that would be a concern? Or could things be overlooked?