Seam sealing new seek outside cimarron

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stephane110

Lil-Rokslider
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Apr 12, 2020
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Thread holes and the tiny gap between the two pieces of material. I'm assuming thats what you are calling the little "lip"
That’s what I initially thought regarding the tiny gap, but from the instructions it looks like it’s not necessary to seal that little gap/lip. Seems like they sew it in a way that prevents water ingress from there.
 

tdot

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That’s what I initially thought regarding the tiny gap, but from the instructions it looks like it’s not necessary to seal that little gap/lip. Seems like they sew it in a way that prevents water ingress from there.

If you don't seal the gap, then water will still be able to wick thru the stitching as it can migrate thru the gap, into the stitching within the seam and then into the tent. It will bypass the exterior seam sealing on the exposed threads. Still less water then an unsealed tent, but the seam will not be fully sealed.

The factory sea sealed tent that I had included seam sealer over the gap/lip.
 

thetoe

FNG
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May 30, 2020
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Don't be like me- I ended up sealing it with lots of distractions, no thinner, and using my finger instead of a brush. It didn't go so well but I think I got it done. Need to do a rain test one of these days.
 
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Wish I would have researched more before I tackled mine. It's a mess. I would fully endorse cutting it with a thinner. Even with acid brush my work is Ghetto AF. Looks like a 3rd grader did it before recess.
 
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I'm not sure how many tubes you all got but for my cimmaron, I got three tubes of seal and only went through one and my tent is probably 80% sealed. I'm wondering if I need to apply more?
 
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I prefer taught seams and thinned with a foam brush . you will hardly see it.

That being said, at the factory, we put it on thick so people notice it , because if it is thinned and super clean people wonder if it is done.

Both ways are correct
Kevin,
What about dyneema?
I snagged a dyneema Eolus. Would you use this procedure or are they taped?

Thanks Bryan
 
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@Jesse Jaymes, @Kevin_t, @tdot

I feel stupid for asking, but can you guys explain the thinner to me? I see I’m supposed to use 100% mineral spirits, but are you mixing the silicone and mineral spirits in a little dish or something, then using a foam brush to paint it on the seams?
 

tdot

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@Jesse Jaymes, @Kevin_t, @tdot

I feel stupid for asking, but can you guys explain the thinner to me? I see I’m supposed to use 100% mineral spirits, but are you mixing the silicone and mineral spirits in a little dish or something, then using a foam brush to paint it on the seams?

Yes, exactly. You're using the mineral spirits to thin the silicone to a consistency that can be applied by brush and has a better chance of soaking into the thread and sewing needle holes. When the thinner off gasses, you're left with pure silicone (I'd also recommend 100% silicone, if the directions didn't state that)
 

Kevin_t

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Most people that use the seam sealer we provide just spread it on with their finger. However, thinning it is lighter and looks better IMO. Basically, mix the Oderless mineral spirits to become become a slurry .. use a small foam brush and paint it on. Use Oderless mineral spirits.
 

tdot

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Kevin,
What about dyneema?
I snagged a dyneema Eolus. Would you use this procedure or are they taped?

Thanks Bryan
@Kevin_t can confirm the current construction methods. I had a DCF Silex, it was apparently one of the first to be produced, so I'm not sure if they use the same construction method. My tent was definitely sewn at the seams and was also factory seam sealed. If you can see sewing on the seam, then it would need to be seam sealed. The tape will waterproof the lengthwise joint, but I wouldn't expect it to waterproof the holes from the sewing needle. Fully taped seams are definitely waterproof, if there isn't stitching present.
 

Kevin_t

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Our DCF tents are sewn and fully seam taped. No sealing should be necessary.
 
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Yes, exactly. You're using the mineral spirits to thin the silicone to a consistency that can be applied by brush and has a better chance of soaking into the thread and sewing needle holes. When the thinner off gasses, you're left with pure silicone (I'd also recommend 100% silicone, if the directions didn't state that)

Most people that use the seam sealer we provide just spread it on with their finger. However, thinning it is lighter and looks better IMO. Basically, mix the Oderless mineral spirits to become become a slurry .. use a small foam brush and paint it on. Use Oderless mineral spirits.

Awesome, thank you to both of you!
 

Ryan R

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The flexible seam sealer I used came with a brush and I applied it inside my house on a ironing board. Worked well...takes a while.
 
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I sealed my sawtooth this week. I just used an acid brush and the supplied sealant. I should of cut it with mineral spirits, but didn't. It's definitely in the running for the 3rd grade art project, but with the amount of product I applied, I am positive it won't leak. And just to be sure, I forgot to turn my sprinklers off, so it got a full 25 minutes from several different heads and was still dry inside.
 
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Most people that use the seam sealer we provide just spread it on with their finger. However, thinning it is lighter and looks better IMO. Basically, mix the Oderless mineral spirits to become become a slurry .. use a small foam brush and paint it on. Use Oderless mineral spirits.
To seam seal a pack do I want seam grip wp or seam grip + sil previously call silnet?
 
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Seam grip, I am almost certain the sil stuff only sticks to silicone coated fabric. Xpac, spectra, and UltraPE are not silicone coated.
Thats what I thought.
I'm gonna seam seal my x pac bag for AK I don't care if its 100% wp but figured why not help it out if I can.

There's so many dang, sealants and adhesives theses days. Its kinda mind boggling.

I've always been a glue is glue guy. But I've ran into a few instances where I had stuff not even try to work the last couple years.
 
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