Scope mounting issues.

grfox92

WKR
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Mar 14, 2017
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NW WY
Hey guys,

I am trying to mount a Vortex Diamondback 3x9x40 onto a M70 .308

I had the individual bases but unfortunately the scope was too short to get the front to back movement needed to get the scope close enough to my eye.

I ordered a 1 piece extended tactical base from Weaver with the intention of bringing the front Scope ring more over the ejector.

Now my issue is the front of the scope, makes contact with the front of the Tactical rail I installed.

I could cut the rail down to the forward most screw hole, but the gun is beautiful and I rather not start slicing and dicing.

The rings are the corresponding Vortex pieces and I rather not go to a taller ring as the height is perfect for me when I shoulder the gun.

Is there anything I'm missing? Or is either cutting the rail or going to a higher base my only option?

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4ester

WKR
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Nov 2, 2014
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912
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Steep and Deep
I wouldn't cut your rail. And with only a 40mm bell, you should be running low rings. I'm thinking that the short eye relief is making you move the scope back to your eye.


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Lukex24

FNG
Joined
May 12, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Washington
Hey guys,

I am trying to mount a Vortex Diamondback 3x9x40 onto a M70 .308

I had the individual bases but unfortunately the scope was too short to get the front to back movement needed to get the scope close enough to my eye.

I ordered a 1 piece extended tactical base from Weaver with the intention of bringing the front Scope ring more over the ejector.

Now my issue is the front of the scope, makes contact with the front of the Tactical rail I installed.

I could cut the rail down to the forward most screw hole, but the gun is beautiful and I rather not start slicing and dicing.

The rings are the corresponding Vortex pieces and I rather not go to a taller ring as the height is perfect for me when I shoulder the gun.

Is there anything I'm missing? Or is either cutting the rail or going to a higher base my only option?

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Higher rings is the correct choice. If you need a higher comb height, you can always get a rifle stock pad or just old school and use a pool noodle and tape. Don't cut the base.
 

robtattoo

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Mar 22, 2014
Messages
3,496
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Tullahoma, TN
I say; if the rifle fits you with the rings that fit the scope, cut the rail. Rails are cheap & easily modified. For example, I had to reprofile the rear Talley ring on 2 of my Savages to accommodate Vortex scopes & had to do this to the rail on my LWH to get the correct relief & clearance.....
b211bd17e4ba2851723bd3fcd9597599.jpg


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robtattoo

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Mar 22, 2014
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Tullahoma, TN
Here's a quote, often spouted by my Dad, the inveterate tinkerer....

"Do what you need to make what you need, do what you need"
 

ATX762

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 30, 2017
Messages
115
Location
Austin, TX
Cut the rail, grind the rail, who cares about the rail, it's a rail, you can cut it, sand it, and paint it and no one will know but you. To me, this is a no brainer. You aren't cutting your rifle...a rail is completely replaceable and disposable and adds no real resale value to your gun unless it's a Badger Ordnance or something.

I would definitely not get higher rings and a cheek pad. You are just creating problems there. Your rifle is perfectly set up...a few mm of aluminum is the issue, get rid of the aluminum. I grind scope bases/rails ALL the time. Just do a nice job and paint it. But do not mess up the fit of the gun to your body.

I find it strange that you couldn't get the scope far back enough to your eye. I find I more often have the opposite issue, can't get the scope far forward enough. Do you have a very long stock? Is it a factory length stock that someone added a recoil pad to without shortening the stock first?
 

C.Cass

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
108
Location
STL, MO
I too vote for cutting the rail, especially if your cheek weld gives you good alignment. Getting higher rings will solve the clearance issue, but open up a bigger box of worms. Sure you can get a pad, pool noodle, etc, but that seems like more of a hassle than anything. Get some spray paint to match the finish of the rail and you'll never even know you cut it.
 
OP
grfox92

grfox92

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Mar 14, 2017
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2,740
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NW WY
I went digging around my stuff and found another set of rings that were taller but not double the size.

I dry fit them and I have to say I think that height is better for me. The gun comes up and I've got a perfect sight picture.

As to why it didn't fit as was I'm not sure. I inherited the gun recently and don't know which version of M70 it is.

Below is the finished product mounted and bore sighted.

Thanks everyone for your help!
a56d2ebaa3be92c31a1b860b59f1e106.jpg
2f7ea83c50b2b174e11320c6313b9652.jpg


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OP
grfox92

grfox92

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looks like you are leaving some ring spacing on the table.... front looks like you could gain a couple slots.....
looks like I can move it forward 2 slots. I'll do that. Thanks for the advice.

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grfox92

grfox92

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By a long way and the scope is way higher than I'd have it.
I could cut and grind the rail and go back to the lower rings....

what is the downfall of having the scope that high?

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robtattoo

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Mar 22, 2014
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I could cut and grind the rail and go back to the lower rings....

what is the downfall of having the scope that high?

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Other than looking like a mud fence, as long as it fits you, there's no disadvantage. I can't see how you could get a solid cheek weld at that high though, unless your face is 18" long.

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OP
grfox92

grfox92

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Other than looking like a mud fence, as long as it fits you, there's no disadvantage. I can't see how you could get a solid cheek weld at that high though, unless your face is 18" long.

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you guys crack me up haha.

I'm a bowgunter. Don't get me wrong, I've been shooting guns my whole life and own over a dozen, but mostly shotguns, rim fire Almost all of my gun hunting with a slug gun as I'm from the counties above NYC which are bow only or slug only.....

So all of the fine details and precision centerire rifles is all new to me.

keep the info coming and help me get this thing set up right.

I know the scope isn't a high end optic, I don't intend to shoot over 300 yards which would already be pushing it for my current abilities (being realistic).



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robtattoo

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Mar 22, 2014
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It's actually not a bad scope, but having owned 3 of them, I know I'll never have another. Nothing wrong optically, but the eye relief on the Diamondback is super critical & I've yet to mount one that wasn't a terrific pain in the bum.
Were I you, I'd attack the rail with every abrasive you own & get that scope as low as possible.
I'd start by chopping it off level with the action & if needs be, file down the top rails in front of the forward ring. It may take a little experimentation with rings, but you should be able to drop it a half inch easily.

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