S2H Winter Rifle Course Observations/lessons

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Shoot2Hunt held a Winter version of the 0-600 Yard Hunting Course last week. Below will follow some of the notable experiences/information.

@Ryan Avery @ztc92 @jzeblaz @longrangelead @24valve



Day 1: We started the afternoon before the official start date with 4x students and 2x teachers. 2x Tikka T3’s, 1x BAT action custom, 1x Tikka M595 Master Sporter. IIRC it was 3° F. Snowed all day.

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Four more shooters arrived that night or the next morning.
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The first four days it ranged from 3° F to -15°F for the day time shooting. It snowed almost every day- most days all day long.



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Safeties get used-

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After the 100 yard portion was completed, day 4 started the distance portions:

IIRC this was the coldest day at -13° to -15° F
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Cont….
 
Day 5 we went up the hill on skis and snowshoes:

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It had warmed up and most had to learn about proper clothing amounts for high exertion when you begin.
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Going down was a bit of a learning experience for some.
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Cont….
 
Going back down. That day had warmed up and the snow was very, very wet. Most had difficulty in staying upright in the skis.

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When we got back, we ate dinner and then conducted a Rewarming Drill.


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Overall a fun class. Good amount of shooting, and lots of frozen beards, mustaches, eyebrows, and eyelashes-
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Cont….
 
Equipment and training:

This was true winter conditions. Most do not, shoot, backpack camp, or hunt in these conditions, though many claim to. This is reflected in their belief about equipment, clothing, rifles/optics, packs, etc. that fall flat when tested. Those I hunt with do- to the tune of 20,000+ rounds a season, and we have killed 15-20 elk and near countless deer in deep winter conditions.



Clothing:

Overall people’s clothing seemed to work ok for them with notable exceptions. We did not camp out overnight in this course, which would have showed some deficiencies in some choices. Natural materials work better overall for most.




Feet:

common insulated boots do not provide the insulation required for comfort or even safety. Mukluks with felt wool liners are by far the most suitable/warmest option of anything that was used. They allowed the two people using them (myself and another) to stand and shoot in below 0° F snow for 7+ hours a day with no coldness whatsoever. Next best is either oversized pac boots or rubber boots with felt wool liners.
The biggest issue with the Mukluks, rubber boots, and pacboots is traction- especially the Mukluks have basically zero. This necessitates carrying a pair of shoes for hiking and climbing, and switching out when mostly stationary.
The Vivo Barefoot Tundra ESC’s are likely the best choice for warmth and traction, unfortunately they have been on order for two months with no ETA.
Socks are best when fluffy and thicker, and boots must be loose enough all-round to not squish your feet at all. Good fluffy merino works fine. Alpaca, and Camel wool are better.


Baselayers:

No surprises here- synthetic dries faster, merino is warmer and more comfortable. Woolnet generally is the best of both worlds. The layer touching one’s skin needs to be extremely thin for quick drying as some found out during the rewarming drill.





Outer layer:

Lots of soft shell pants and jackets were used. A couple used hard shell/gortex pants and jackets, a couple used Fjallraven Keb Trousers, and I used Varustaleka TST wool pants.
Soft shells are fine, but they lose water repellency very quickly, and so not dry out all that fast. The Kebs are great with the G1000 waxed canvas portions, but are a bit thin for below 0° F use. The woolshell TST pantsbtahy I used are the best overall pants that I have seen for below 45° F or so. Very warm even when wet, breath well, fit well, durable.



Mid layers:

Mostly synthetic fleeces from those not from very cold places, with those that have spent a lot of time in these conditions mostly using fisherman’s, commando, and Icelandic wool sweaters- some thicker, some thinner. We generally see that from people that live and work in very cold winter conditions (I.E. Finland, Scandinavia, etc.).
There are several reasons for that. One is just simple longevity and durability- lots of “lightweight” backpacking and hunting clothing have relatively short lifespans/usefulness. Good natural materials just last year after year- quality wool sweaters last years/decades.
As well, they are more comfortable- especially under other layers. They feel less clammy when damp, they breathe very well, they don’t stink, they are more comfortable in a broader range of weather, warmer, etc, etc.
Not to be misunderstood- modern synthetic clothing definitely has its place and uses, but it is a far more narrow range of uses than marketing and people try to push. For extremely high exertion, short duration use- it works very well. For continuous living in, and thriving in the elements- not as well.



Insulation/puffy layers:

Both synthetic and down were used and there were a variety of brands/makes/models.
Despite marketing and common belief, synthetic is not all around superior to quality down. Synthetic is less warm, heavier, bulkier, and with a drastically shorter lifespan for full insulation. The lifespan of a synthetic puffy is measured in weeks, not months or years when used everyday- they lose loft very, very quickly. What they are good at is durability with tears and rips- so for range use that is what I/we tend to use. Surplus US military ECWS puff jacket and pants are heavy and bulky and lose half their loft pretty quickly, but can get beat up all day every day and not get shredded. For the general training/shooting they are a good choice.
For actually carrying and using when hunting/backpacking, good quality down is far superior.

A note on insulation- there’s a very large difference between “warm when moving, or stationary for short periods”, and “warm when stationary for long periods and living in it”. You need far more insulation for all day comfort than most jackets/pants. A jacket with 5oz of down fill with a base layer and a fleece isn’t working for 0° F weather all day. For true cold weather 10+ ounces of high quality down in a parka is required.

For mostly static range use, and extreme cold general use- caribou fur jackets/pants and the like are the answer.


Gloves and hats:

All kinds were brought and used. Like the mid-layer, there were trends based on where people were from/how much experience they get in winter. Fleece liners or mechanic gloves, and full fingered insulated over gloves were common from those with maybe less experience in these conditions. Wool and fleece liners, with leather or down mittens, leather mittens with gauntlets and felted wool liners, and one with beaver fur mittens were most common with those from these conditions.
For shooting thin fleece gloves suck due to slipping and lack of grip. Thin leather gloves, especially with a thin wool lining work best. For insulted gloves- fingered gloves suck. You must keep all your fingered thietyer for them to share warmth. Higher gauntlet style mittens with felted wool liners are very warm, durable and functional- surplus Artic Flyer Mittens for example.
The ultimate is beaver, coyote, bison, caribou, and especially seal skin mittens/gauntlets. They have no equal.


Hats- wool beanies/tobogans. Not acrylic or synthetic. Hand knit, wool beanies are the way for most. I and the other teacher wore hand knit wool version that a forum members wife made and gave to us- spectacular. I also used a Turkish sheep skin/fur hat and it works fantastically- head was never cold at all.

Face masks- absolutely necessary in this kind of weather. Thin merino worked well. Thicker wool knit “bank robber” masks work as well or better.



Ground insulation:

We didn’t camp, and only one night of use on sleeping mats during the rewarming drill- but, high R value of 6+ is required.

For shooting everyday, ground insulation is also required. Mist used foam slapping pads, a couple tried their inflatable pads- but they suck for shooting and switched. Animals skins are by far the warmest and most comfortable to lay on all day in snow. I meant to bring a hide to lay on while shooting but forgot it.


Sleeping bags:

Again, not camping out, only during the rewarming drill were bags used. There were synthetic, pure down, and water resistant down used. Quality down bags are the way for all the reasons that applies to puffy jackets/pants.
 
Rewarming drill observations:

People in general lack a consistent packing and storage method for insulation- it took far too long for most to get their puff suit on after the water dip.
Kuiu and Stone Glacier treated down puffies worked without much issue. The Kuiu lost some loft and took longer to return and dry out, but did work. The Stone Glacier Grummans worked with no problems and was about as good on loft as synthetic. Synthetics did not lose loft, but actually took longer to dry than than the SG.

Base-layers and mid layers- thick fleece and merino wool is poor. It gets wet and stays wet. Next to skin needs to be thin synthetic, very very thin merino, or Woolnet. The next layer needs to wick and pull moisture away. The Icelandic and merino fishing sweaters did not dry quickly, but combined with wool net or very thin base-layers, people got warm skin and dryer faster.
Soft shell outer layers absorbed water on their fleece/soft interiors and stayed wet for a long time. If you are using a softshell, it needs to be very thin- basically just the hard face fabric.


Sleeping bags- they need to be very high loft. We had people use water treated down, pure down, and synthetic bags/Zen Bivy’s. Actually the only real problems came from synthetic bags that were not near warm enough. The pure down the treated down Zen Bivy’s and Stone Glacier bags did not wet out, and passed moisture very well. The pure down bag- Marmot Never Summer, did well too. It lost a bit of loft right at the beginning, but the users body heat pushed the water out within an hour, and he fell asleep. (Note: this person had a very good clothing system- his midlayer did not absorb water nearly at all- therefor he dried quickly).
When they came inside 4 hours later the down bags were fully functional on the inside, the outside layer was covered in water from pushing it out.

Zen Bivy and Marmot bags. Bury were warm and comfortable enough that they fell asleep relatively quickly.
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2x synthetic bags did not do as well. They took forever to start passing water to the outer layer- this was undoubtedly partially caused by them not insulating enough, and therefore the users weren’t “cooking” themselves dry. Also these two were using mostly merino everything, and it just took longer to dry out. One had Woolnet base layer, but his mid layer stayed soaking wet for far too long- they still got warm and started to dry out, they would have survived and been fine, but where others had dry skin 3 hours later, it would have taken them all night to.


Using a bag or insulation to dry clothing requires one to produce enough heat to push the water from the skin layers away and into the outer layers. You need body heat in order to “cook” yourself dry. A 30° F bag that you use your puffies to add the required insulation for to save weight, leaves absolutely no margin. If you are using a higher °F bag with your puff jacket and pants for warmth, you have nothing left if you need to dry out or get put in a bad situation. The people that dried out the quickest were those with the warmest treated down bags, very thin synthetic or Woolnet baselayers, proper wool mid layer or certain synthetic layers, and who zipped all the way up and pumped hot liquids and food into themselves.


In front hanging to dry right after coming inside. Down bags are hanging and are near completely lofted after having someone soaking wet be inside them for 4 hours. Back left is a Zen Bivy and it is 100% lofted.
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Overall most find quality, appropriate natural materials to work better and longer, with more comfort than most modern synthetic hunting gear.
 
Hard Gear:



Packs:


Packs used were Kuiu, Stone Glacier, Exo K4’s, and a hiking bag. Most are/were too strappy, and all lacked the ability to access required insulation/gear without undoing the straps, buckles, and the bag itself. Bag yard sales were common each day. It was either that, or they looked and sounded like Samwise Gamgee- crap strapped all over their bags clanging and clattering each step they took.
Having to undue multiple straps, open the main bag up, undue buckles, etc to reach puff suits, tripods, spotters/binos, etc. is just silly and sucks as a user. There were two bags present that were/are specifically designed for winter backpack hunting- half the buckles of most packs, and not one buckle or strap has to be undone to access what is required for the day. By far they were the cleanest and most elegant solution present.


Skis and snowshoes:

The snow depth was 3-4 feet most places for most of the week. Snowshoeing was not a problem for anyone that I saw. The skis however were a different matter. Going up, and breaking trail didn’t present issues that I saw or heard, but going down was a learning experience for most. The skis used were Altai Hok’s and Taos. They break trail much better than snowshoes, can cover ground mush faster with less exhaustion- but they do not cut like downhill skis. A couple of people had down enough with them that down hill wasn’t a major issue, however others- even experienced downhill skiers were not so great. Several chose to pull them off and walk downhill back to the house on the last day with the wet, packed down snow after basically not being able to stay upright on them.



Rifles:

Mostly Tikka T3’s. 4x Remington based rifles/actions (2x Bat, 2x Remington), 1x Tikka M595, and 2x MRC prototype Marshalls.

The first day it was single digits and snowing. One BAT action/custom had a failure to feed on round number 2, and a failure to eject in round number 18.
After that, I had everyone leave their actions open and facing up/exposed to the snow to see what would happen with the Tikka’s. The actions would be totally filled with snow by the time we pasted targets and came back. One user just inserted a mag in a Tikka and closed the bolt with a snow filled action- this caused it to make the snow into ice in the chamber, and the bolt had to be hammered down with a fist to close. It closed and functioned fine after that. Everyone else that saw just tipped the rifle over dumping most of the snow out and had no issues.

On day 2 or 3, a Remington trigger was completely dead and would not fire on the first round- it started working IIRC on round 4. A Bixn Andy had 2x light strikes right off then started working. No Tikka triggers had issues due to snow or ice. 2x Waters Rifleman 2.6” COAL mags had a round nosedive into the front of the mag- Waters warns about this with the 2.6” mags and standard loaded length rounds.
The MRC’s were left open and exposed everyday, all day in continues light to mid falling snow to see what would cause them to fail- nothing did for 5 days. They functioned and fed perfectly from first round to last, with no issues despite having the most exposure to weather of any rifles. On day 5 at -15° F, the 308 MRC would not release the firing pin. The firing pin was removed on the spot (its extremely easy to field strip) and it was found that there was grease on the firing pin and spring that had frozen to the point it was hard dust and caked everywhere. The user knocked it off, wiped it, reassembled the bolt, and the rifle functioned perfectly thereafter. That night he degreased the bolt and had zero issues for the rest of the course.

A Tikka triggers had a lighter trigger spring in it, and on day 6 it had a slam fire when closed in the user. In about 20 hard bolt racks I got it to release one time afterwards. This continues the 100% failure rate of Tikka triggers with replaced lighter springs that I have seen used heavily. Back off the spring screw as the factory designed them, and LEAVE THEM ALONE. If you must remove the trigger for some reason, degrease everything, use a nail polish or a lot of paint from a paint pen, and torque it back on TIGHT.


On day 7 one user had a custom 6.5 PRC R700 and a borrowed suppressor that had a carbon chunk fall on the bolt face and stop the bolt lugs from turning when closing the action. In several thousand suppressors that I and my group have seen used for hundreds of thousands of rounds- this is the first time I have seen it with a centerfire rifle (have seen it with Vudoo .22’s).
I am aware in my circle of it happening a couple of times with others. Every single time it has been with “custom” barrels/chambers, and mostly with 6.5 PRC’s.
We also had one user with max book loaded 243win ammo that worked without issue, that when shot heavily in the snow started randomly blowing primers and with hard extraction. This is due to the snow melting from the heat, ammo getting wet when loading, etc and causing pressure issues.


Scopes/mounts:

1x Leupold (Mark 4 HD) was present, it lost zero and continually had vertical POI shifts. It in the field eval scope in the Eval sub forum.

1x SWFA fixed 10x fell/knocked over directly on its elevation turret on a concrete floor- it was a several foot drop. The turret bent at a 15’ish degree angle- you could see it from across the room immediately. It seemed like the whole elevation turret body was spinning as well. That night when taking it apart, it was the outer sleeve with index lines that came lose- that was glued back with Loctite 380, and the turret was bent back as straight as it could be with a hammer- not light strikes; it was hammered back into place. The next morning not only did the scope still work, it was still zeroed correctly.

After hammering and trying to get the dents out of the turret cap-
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Spotting scopes and binos:

15x binoculars dominate in spotting shots for partners, way faster to get on target and easier to see trace/splash/impacts.

Most spotting scopes have extremely short eye relief (basically everyone but Leupold), and they cause no end of issues for people to spot with- especially under stress and time constraints. Having to shove an eyepiece through your eye socket to get a full FOV is ridiculous in all cases, and when needing to be quick or in dynamic situations, it makes finding targets/animals and spotting shots impossible at times. They’re so bad, that several people just stopped using them all together and just used 10x binos clipped into tripods to spot. That in note answer- 15x binos or a spotter with correct eye relief is.

The Leupold Mark 4 12-40x spotter has no such issue- it is still probably the best overall field spotter on the market.

Shooting bags:

Hard rear bags, and bags with nearly full fill cause all kinds of issues. Rear bags should be half filled, sloppy, formless masses that allow the person to control the rifle. There is a reason the Jellyfish rear bag is designed the way it is.





Overall thoughts:

The winter training environment is like no other. It reveals flaws and failures in people and equipment like few environments can. When done correctly it can be, and is very fun to be in. This was a fun class with fun people that maintained a good attitude that whole time.

We will change how we do the snowshoe and skiing familiarization if we do another winter course, so that everyone is comfortable with the skis when we start going into terrain.


We had one ND when the user was going fast (completely safe)- trigger finger straight and safety on must be a conditioned, subconscious action that is done every single time without fail. Never should someone’s index finger close up in the rifle when not firing. This is not an uncommon occurrence with people, and it almost always happens to people who do not use the safety religiously.

I will continue to say it- DO NOT GET CUTE WITH YOUR LOADS OR CHAMBERS. Benchrest and range guns, PRS toy rifles, etc. it doesn’t really matter. Rifles and guns meant to be used in the field, that must work- do not do dumb shit. Good rifles, using factory ammo in factory chambers just work without issue. Nearly 100% of problems that we see are from “custom” actions, triggers, barrels, chambers, and hand loaded “for precision”ammo.

People can’t hit 3 MOA targets on demand with a little bit of stress, their rifles and scopes lose zero constantly, they flinch like a mother, etc, etc; your “5/1000ths closer to lands bullet that increase precision by .0007”, isn’t making a bit of difference.

Gear and equipment that work without fail, that are simple and reliable shine in field environments- not complicated and over engineered nonsense.
 
I'm curious, do you have any experience with sleeping bags made with Gore Windstopper Fabrics (i.e. Western Mountaineering) when doing the rewarming drill? Curious to know how well they would dry out.
 
I'm curious, do you have any experience with sleeping bags made with Gore Windstopper Fabrics (i.e. Western Mountaineering) when doing the rewarming drill? Curious to know how well they would dry out.

I have not done a rewarding drill with those. This was the first time with a pure untreated down bag.
 
I'm curious, do you have any experience with sleeping bags made with Gore Windstopper Fabrics (i.e. Western Mountaineering) when doing the rewarming drill? Curious to know how well they would dry out.
Unless you submerge a WM GWS bag in water it’s not wetting out. I’ve spent countless nights in rain and snow in these bags and remained dry all night.
 
Unless you submerge a WM GWS bag in water it’s not wetting out. I’ve spent countless nights in rain and snow in these bags and remained dry all night.
That is from the exterior though. The Gore membrane greatly limits the amount & speed of moisture transport from the interior to the outside shell fabric, such as you would be out eta with a rewarming drill or multiple days at high elevation in cold temps due to perspiration, if a VB was not used.
 
That is from the exterior though.
Indeed.
The Gore membrane greatly limits the amount & speed of moisture transport from the interior to the outside shell fabric, such as you would be out eta with a rewarming drill or multiple days at high elevation in cold temps due to perspiration, if a VB was not used.
I would think so, yes.
 
Looks like a great time! I'll take that weather over hot and humid every time!

It's a dry cold! (until you jump into water....)
 
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