Riflescope failure signs

[HighUintas]

I'm having issues with a good load sometimes shooting 5-10 shots into 1/2" and other times shooting 1.5" and shifting poi.

I've never had an issue with this scope before, so it has me wondering....

What patterns/behavior do you see on target when your scope doesn't hold zero?

 

[cmahoney]

This is a big indicator for me

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[Bubblehide]

What you describe CAN be failure on the part of the scope. However, I would start checking the stock. Make sure the barrel is free floated. Remove the stock and check the lug, all bolts/screws, then reassemble. Second I would remove the scope and check all screws; sometimes they sheer off and you may not know without removing them all. If there were no failures found, it is likely the scope failed, however, just to be positive, I would mount it on another known well shooting rifle. If the same thing happens, you then know it has to be the scope.

With that said, cmahoney above has an excellent point. If it is a Vortex, simplify the above process and utilize the warranty. Get new replacement scope, sell replacement scope and buy something more durable. Or, continue to go through the same thing from time to time.

 

[Tod osier]

This is a big indicator for me

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I was thinking a gold ring as a sign.

 

[260madman]

I was thinking a gold ring as a sign.

Get both

what type of rifle? Give us the deets.

 

[LaHunter]

I'm having issues with a good load sometimes shooting 5-10 shots into 1/2" and other times shooting 1.5" and shifting poi.

I've never had an issue with this scope before, so it has me wondering....

What patterns/behavior do you see on target when your scope doesn't hold zero?

What you describe would make me very suspicious of the scope. I had a scope failure once. My zero would vary by .5-1.0 moa from one range session to another. Also, my dope under very similar / same conditions with the same load would vary by .5-1.5 moa from one range session to another, depending on the distance. At the end, the dope was 2-3 moa off at 600 yards. A tracking / tall target test would verify your scopes function, if you have a setup for this. I sent my scope back to the manufacturer for repair and replaced the scope.

 

[msalm]

Try dry firing your rifle and see if the reticle jumps. Had a Leupold straight 6x that did that and grouped vertically…replaced scope and it went to shooting bugholes.

 

[HighUintas]

It's is a Maven rs2. I've put probably 1200 rounds of 30-06 on it, mostly 180gr at about 2850fps.

It is a Tikka, with a mullerworks barrel, heavier contour than Tikka. Can't remember the number but I think it's a 3? Bedded in a factory Tikka walnut stock with pillars and free floated. Slightly small gap on one side near the foreend tip that I need to sand down some more.

The inconsistency started after I had the new barrel put on. It was ok for the first couple hundred rounds and the last 50-60 rounds it's seemed to be a problem.

This is all at 100. No dialing issues that I've found

 

[Lawnboi]

If it says China on the bottom

 

[SummitsCalling]

This is a big indicator for me

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But...but...lifetime warranty

 

[HighUintas]

If it says China on the bottom

Nope. Japanese components and it's either assembled here or in Japan. Can't remember.

 

[Lawnboi]

Scope problems are frustrating especially with components the way they are now. Best bet is to not mess around and just swap scopes. Part of the reason my stuff is on rails or mounts that are easily interchangeable.

 

[HighUintas]

True. I don't like that I've burned so much 4350 on it. The only other scope I've got is a swfa ultralight. I haven't put it through any testing but it seems to hold zero. I may try it

 

[bbrown]

I’d start with rings and action screws. I chased a Tikka .308 that would group like it should, next group it would switch to a shotgun group and it ended up being the action screws were loose. On a buddy’s tikka t3 he was running the factory rings (mistake I know) and one group was good enough for his ability and the next looked like he was shooting with his eyes closed. Ended up the lug tying the rings to the receiver was literally tearing the back of the ring out. Didn’t notice until we broke it down to try a new scope. Frustrating for such a simple fix

 

[HighUintas]

I’d start with rings and action screws. I chased a Tikka .308 that would group like it should, next group it would switch to a shotgun group and it ended up being the action screws were loose. On a buddy’s tikka t3 he was running the factory rings (mistake I know) and one group was good enough for his ability and the next looked like he was shooting with his eyes closed. Ended up the lug tying the rings to the receiver was literally tearing the back of the ring out. Didn’t notice until we broke it down to try a new scope. Frustrating for such a simple fix

I do know that the action screws and scope ring and base screws are not loose. I degreased the crap out of them and have pink nail polish on n them to keep em secure and let me know if they get loose. Check em every time and they're still where I put them

 

[Quicksilver]

When was the last time the barrel was cleaned and inspected with a bore scope? Plenty of times at around your round count performance would drop and I could spend a whole weekend cleaning a barrel and borescope it to find carbon fouling that doesn’t come out easily and with normal cleaning. Use simichrome lightly only in the affected area and it should do the trick. I’ve brought back many barrels to tight accuracy getting the carbon ring or carbon fouling out of the barrel.

 

[260madman]

Is the free float a dollar bill or hot dog down a hallway? Can you press the barrel and and stock together? If so position of the stock resting on something when shooting could play a part but I’m guessing you have this figured out.

How many firings on your brass? Could need to be annealed and inconsistent neck tension could be causing the issue. Out of round necks will do what you’re seeing also.

 

[HighUintas]

When was the last time the barrel was cleaned and inspected with a bore scope? Plenty of times at around your round count performance would drop and I could spend a whole weekend cleaning a barrel and borescope it to find carbon fouling that doesn’t come out easily and with normal cleaning. Use simichrome lightly only in the affected area and it should do the trick. I’ve brought back many barrels to tight accuracy getting the carbon ring or carbon fouling out of the barrel.

It is clean. I clean it every 20-25 rounds and have JB'd it multiple times for full carbon removal

Is the free float a dollar bill or hot dog down a hallway? Can you press the barrel and and stock together? If so position of the stock resting on something when shooting could play a part but I’m guessing you have this figured out.

How many firings on your brass? Could need to be annealed and inconsistent neck tension could be causing the issue. Out of round necks will do what you’re seeing also.

The side that is a little close, I think it's around 1/16"? I could probably squeeze barrel and stock together. When shooting, I have the bag nearly under the mag... Just in front .

Brass, is Peterson and I anneal every loading. My FL die does suck. It sizes my necks all the way down to 0.325. so, that's not going to help. Virgin brass firing sessions are better

 

[Wapiti1]

Best thing to do is as suggested above, go to the basics, take it all apart, and verify all is put back together correctly. Then swap in a different scope and see. Only one way to know.

Jeremy

 

[Tod osier]

I'm having issues with a good load sometimes shooting 5-10 shots into 1/2" and other times shooting 1.5" and shifting poi.

I've never had an issue with this scope before, so it has me wondering....

What patterns/behavior do you see on target when your scope doesn't hold zero?

Snarky comments I made previously aside, yes that jives with what I've seen with failing scopes. I've had them that oscillated between multiple zeros (several printing a group in sequence then a few in between then another group) and those that had poi shift and then pop right back to where they are supposed to be once you adjust them (resulting in over correcting).