PSE Bareshaft Tuning

Lwalicki13

Newbie
Joined
Jun 29, 2022
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3
Hey all.

Just put new strings/ cables on my PSE Levitate. Shot fletched through paper and shot a bullet hole. So I went to 20 yards and shot at a 1 inch piece of tape on a foam block with broadhead, field point and a bare shaft. This was the result. Can anyone give advice on why bareshaft is pointed nock right but grouped tightly?

Stats are Left handed, 74 pound draw weight, 29 inch draw length. Arrows are 530 grain Victory VAP SS 250 spine with 175 total weight up front. Arrows cut at 28 inches.
 

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Rob5589

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I don't place much emphasis on the angle once in the target. Watch the flight with slow motion video to see how the shafts actually fly. Being all in the same spot would satisfy my tuning needs.
 

OR Archer

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Feb 29, 2012
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You could be getting a slight tail right out of the bow with the bare shaft. You could move the rest a 1/32 to the left to see if it will clean it up. That much rest movement won’t affect your fletched shafts.
Some will say it’s the target. However if that was truly the case you’d see the same with your fletched kicking as well. If the bareshaft was in fact flying straight it wouldn’t kick.
 

dtrkyman

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Oct 2, 2014
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Back up 5 more yards and what it shows, some minor adjustments likely needed,

Make sure you target is not moving!!!
 

KBC

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Mar 8, 2017
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BC
Never mind 5 yards, go to 40 and see what happens. If they all hit in the same spot I wouldn't worry about the angle they stick in the target, too many variables to affect that. You could have hit a hole from a previous shot or a softer spot on the target.
 

Samdemarais

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Jul 27, 2017
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Ya I would bet that thing would be a foot or more to the left at 30-40. Once you get to that distance you can just shoot a fletch fixed broadhead and just worry about poi not shaft angle
 

wayoh22

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Jul 22, 2018
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Your answer is right in what you said. You shot fletched through paper and got a bullet hole. You didn't shoot a bare shaft before backing up to 20yds. Probably had a right tear with a bare shaft. Fletching is going to correct everything in flight for the most part. Go fix that and I bet this clears right up. But as others have said if you're hitting straight with fletched then it's up to you to determine if it's worth it to go back.
 

NYyotekiller

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Sep 3, 2019
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Midwestern, NY
This also could be a sign of an improper arrow spine. I would try removing some weight out front and see if you get the same result.
 
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Lwalicki13

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Jun 29, 2022
Messages
3
This also could be a sign of an improper arrow spine. I would try removing some weight out front and see if you get the same result.
I have thought about this but these arrows are 250 spine.... As a left handed shooter, A nock right would mean its too weak. Theres no way 250 spine is too weak at 74 pounds of draw weight.

I have 300 spine arrows that I used in an older setup, and this is the same result after multiple groupings. I think im going to go back to paper and shoot a few bare shafts through it to see if it gives a consistent result. Will tune the bow to the bareshaft shaft results and then try again at 20 with all 3.
 

5MilesBack

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Feb 27, 2012
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Colorado Springs
I'd shoot the BH and FP at 60 and see what they're doing. It's easy to have BH's and FP's right on top of each other at 20, and then have BH's 5"+ off at 60. Your BS is telling you that you need some sort of minor tweek. But I'd also shoot the BS at 40 first to see what it's doing there.
 
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Lwalicki13

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Jun 29, 2022
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I'd shoot the BH and FP at 60 and see what they're doing. It's easy to have BH's and FP's right on top of each other at 20, and then have BH's 5"+ off at 60. Your BS is telling you that you need some sort of minor tweek. But I'd also shoot the BS at 40 first to see what it's doing there.
Agreed. Over the next few days I’m going to run the BS thru paper, tune it to a bullet hole and then head out and see what the 3 are doing in relationship to each other at distance. Thanks for the advice
 
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