Preferred sizing die

Lawnboi

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Curious what everyone is using for sizing does. Bushing, standard FL? Custom FL? Honed FL?

I’m fairly new to reloading. I started some wilson bushing dies, which have worked well. Been experimenting with some standard full length dies (Redding) minus the expander and ordered mighty armory which seems a little different yet.

Following sizing currently I mandrel to neck tension. No expander buttons and measure neck tension with a pin guage. Found it dosnt take much to go from .002 neck tension to .004 and indent bullets on seating.

Iv also thought of ordering some honed standard FL dies. I know my bushing size and the idea of eliminating the bushing, and the unsized neck portion is appealing to me.

Anyone used them all?
 

BBob

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Currently I’m using a Lee collet die and bumping with a redding body die. It’s two steps, but it makes very consistent brass.
I do similar for a couple. Redding S Full die with no bushing and a Lee collet for neck. Consistent and straight. I take some time and clean up the Lee die parts in the lathe for smoother operation. I've made up different size mandrels. Lee sells smaller mandrel's for more neck tension as well.
 

OutdoorAg

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Standard FL Sizer. Using a variety of brands - RCBS and Mighty Armory.

I'm sure someone has done some research comparing the options out there - RCBS, Redding, Wilson, etc. But as a major fan of bumping shoulders back .002 and rocking on (hunting rifles)...I don't see much of a reason to order custom FL dies. Nor do I mess with bushings.

For necks, I go with mandrels later in the process. Guess I'll just write out my process with the stuff I use:

1) De-prime with a dedicated decapping die (Mighty Armory)
2) Tumble (Frank Arsenal tumbler)
3) Anneal (EP Integrations annealer. Not lolrich enough for an AMP)
4) FL die to bump shoulder .002 (Various FL dies. They all get the job done)
5) Chamfer and trim if needed. (Henderson Trimmer)
6) Mandrel to set neck tension. (21st century)
7) Powder (A&D FX120i and Auto Trickle)
8) Seat bullets (SAC The Bullet Seater - incredible die)

IMO, this all makes for very good brass, and thus, very consistent ammo. Then the hard part- shooter doing his (my) job.
 
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Lawnboi

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Standard FL Sizer. Using a variety of brands - RCBS and Mighty Armory.

I'm sure someone has done some research comparing the options out there - RCBS, Redding, Wilson, etc. But as a major fan of bumping shoulders back .002 and rocking on (hunting rifles)...I don't see much of a reason to order custom FL dies. Nor do I mess with bushings.

For necks, I go with mandrels later in the process. Guess I'll just write out my process with the stuff I use:

1) De-prime with a dedicated decapping die (Mighty Armory)
2) Tumble (Frank Arsenal tumbler)
3) Anneal (EP Integrations annealer. Not lolrich enough for an AMP)
4) FL die to bump shoulder .002 (Various FL dies. They all get the job done)
5) Chamfer and trim if needed. (Henderson Trimmer)
6) Mandrel to set neck tension. (21st century)
7) Powder (A&D FX120i and Auto Trickle)
8) Seat bullets (SAC The Bullet Seater - incredible die)

IMO, this all makes for very good brass, and thus, very consistent ammo. Then the hard part- shooter doing his (my) job.
Your process is very similar to mine. I can just see a regular full length sizer being more concentric with some of the crappy brass Iv been firing. That said the neck tension is .003 vs .002 I have been targeting. With the bushing I’m noticing bulges on the necks, not doughnuts, just bulges where the bushing ends, I account this for a factory chamber with more clearance. The bulges are not even, nor consistent, and I can see them with my naked eye.

What’s your opinion on the mighty armory die? I just ordered one for 223, hoping that it makes good enough brass with the expander in, so I can eliminate the mandrel step Iv been doing. If it works well I may move that way for my match rifle as well.

Reloading is not very fun to me, but I see it as a necessary evil. Trying to streamline as much as possible. I’m approaching an estimated ship date on a giraud as well, that should really speed things up.
 

ericwh

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I've used Hornady, RCBS, and Forster standard FL dies and Hornady "match grade" Bushing FL die. I use them all with the expander ball. As you alluded to, I am not interested in introducing another step in my process with an expander mandrel.

I like the floating expander stem on the Forster Standard and Hornady Bushing dies. I think that alleviates some of the concern with the expander ball inducing runout. And if you have a honed FL die or a bushing die, the expander ball is barely doing anything anyway - barely expanding and also fixing any dents.

I prefer a standard sizing die to the bushing die. You can see on the brass that the bushing does not contact the whole way down the neck - there is no way it can have complete contact. So what is happening between there and the shoulder? Assuming a donut is forming. However, my standard FL dies over-work the brass. I like not over-working the brass with the bushing die.

When I switch cartridges and get quality brass I am going to do the honed Forster. I believe that is the best solution for me and a good value.

Disclaimer, I have been getting fantastic accuracy from my Hornady Match Die set - last time I went to the range, back-to-back, 1/4 moa, 5-shot groups at 100y in my match rifle (Badrock South Fork). This is with Hornady brass purchased once-fired from snipershide that I haven't sorted in any way. This leads me to believe that, assuming a quality projectile, the firing system is more important than the brass and dies.
 

OutdoorAg

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This leads me to believe that, assuming a quality projectile, the firing system is more important than the brass and dies.

I think this is likely true. That said, when I can start with really good brass (Lapua, Alpha, etc), I think that helps give a guy a head start. Primer pockets, necks, etc -all better on better brass.
 
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Lawnboi

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Well I just finished a test batch with a Redding fl, button removed followed by an expander mandrel. Still looking at .003-.0035 neck tension which is causing a faint ring on the bullet.

Vs a wilson bushing die, with a .246 bushing followed by an expander resulting in .0015-.002 neck tension, with some runout.

I’ll either try the Redding with the button in and see what I end up with, or mighty armory next. But it’s looking like I’ll stick with the Wilson bushing die for now. 3-4K neck tension is a pain to seat on the arbor press.

Looks like forester is the only place that does honed neck sizing dies? I know what I need for honed out sizes based on what I have been using for bushings.

@sndmn11 how long did it take to get something custom from Forster? All the sizing dies I need say back ordered, on top of more time for honing.

We will see how the mighty armory does, cause they have all the calibers I need, currently have a 223 die coming, but if it’s nice a 6.5cm and 3006 die will be on the way.

I’ll also mention all the above is after annealing. So I’m sure I’m looking at significantly less spring back on sizing, but the Redding sans expander sized down to .010 neck tension before the mandrel, case looks like I can throw a 20 cal bullet in it

In regards to it mattering or not? I don’t know. But if I’m pulling the lever and can get a better outcome I’m all for it. Dosnt help that for testing different dies I chose 223 hornady brass Iv been burning up. Not the most consistent but I’ll be damned if I can feel a difference seating after annealing and a wilson bushing die.
 

sndmn11

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Looks like forester is the only place that does honed neck sizing dies? I know what I need for honed out sizes based on what I have been using for bushings.

@sndmn11 how long did it take to get something custom from Forster? All the sizing dies I need say back ordered, on top of more time for honing.

I bought it from not Forster and then mailed it to them with some formed brass (6br-> 22br) and some virgin brass. I think I had it back in two weeks, or so; quick enough that I didn't expect it and hadn't thought about it.

I basically got all the reamer dimensions from Preferred, copy and pasted to Scott, told him my goal (brass life and no trim) and he told me what he would do and did it. It went over my head what he was talking about but I told him he was the expert and to do whatever he wanted.
 
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Lawnboi

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I bought it from not Forster and then mailed it to them with some formed brass (6br-> 22br) and some virgin brass. I think I had it back in two weeks, or so; quick enough that I didn't expect it and hadn't thought about it.

I basically got all the reamer dimensions from Preferred, copy and pasted to Scott, told him my goal (brass life and no trim) and he told me what he would do and did it. It went over my head what he was talking about but I told him he was the expert and to do whatever he wanted.
Looks like I can get one from midway, pretty cheap too. Minus the sending it in part.

I’ll be patient and see how this mighty armory die goes.
 
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Lawnboi

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@Lawnboi very, very nice. I have the decapper and the 6.5cm FL sizer. Would buy more if he brought out more cals
Your not kidding, wow the mighty armory is a nice die. Sized some 223 brass this evening, much smoother than both Redding and Wilson dies I have. Dosnt overwork the brass like the Redding does, and leaves me with .0025 neck tension confirmed with a gauge pin.

I’ll be grabbing one for the creedmoor
 

OutdoorAg

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Your not kidding, wow the mighty armory is a nice die. Sized some 223 brass this evening, much smoother than both Redding and Wilson dies I have. Dosnt overwork the brass like the Redding does, and leaves me with .0025 neck tension confirmed with a gauge pin.

I’ll be grabbing one for the creedmoor
Happy to hear. My experience has been similar. Pin gauge included.
 

OXN939

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Currently I’m using a Lee collet die and bumping with a redding body die. It’s two steps, but it makes very consistent brass.

Considering going to this, just ordered my first Lee collet. So basically, you pull the expander ball from your FL sizing die, bump the shoulder with that setup and then set neck tension using the Lee collet- right?
 
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