Parallax marks or not?

[SDHNTR]

For scopes that do not have yardage figures on the parallax knob, do you make your own? I’ll admit, I sometimes struggle with parallax. Getting the adjustment set just right can sometimes mess with my mind. In theory, I like the idea of getting out to a range and making my own parallax marks, but I also know that things can change with atmospherics. What say you guys?

 

[amassi]

I've never looked at the mark on the parallax knob, not sure why you'd need to

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[Wrench]

I look at it as doing the work vs being told how to work. If the knob is mislabeled, which some early lrhs scopes are/were, the scope would appear defective....but if attempting to resolve the image, ignoring what it says on thr dial, they resolve fantastically.

I just run it. If attempting to make use a makeshift rangefinder, I much prefer to do so via subtensions.

 

[SDHNTR]

I've never looked at the mark on the parallax knob, not sure why you'd need to

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While I understand what you are saying and agree with you, with one of my old scopes (Swaro) that had the yardage, I found it useful as a starting place. I’d twist it to whatever the yardages was before getting down behind the gun, then I’d adjust from there.

 

[SDHNTR]

I guess what I’m also asking is how much to changing atmospherics require parallax adjustments? I’ve not paid enough attention to note.

 

[eoperator]

I hate it when parallax is not labeled, having a quick reference point saves time.

 

[hereinaz]

Mark it if you want to, its up to you and what you like. But, I never would. I can't see how it would make it faster to set parallax taking an extra step to dial it close. For me, it is either fuzzy or focused. Taking time to dial it to a number isn't any faster than turning it to focused.

I always try to have it at 200ish yards, so whenever I am going to dial for long range, it is always the same direction.

I have listened to the pros talk about parallax, and it is a bigger issue at close range when you are trying to zero or shoot groups. As long as it is close, you have to be really shadowing the scope to introduce parallax error even if the parallax isn't set perfect. Like you have to be way off the to side so you see the black.

 

[Wrench]

Mark it if you want to, its up to you and what you like. But, I never would. I can't see how it would make it faster to set parallax taking an extra step to dial it close. For me, it is either fuzzy or focused. Taking time to dial it to a number isn't any faster than turning it to focused.

I always try to have it at 200ish yards, so whenever I am going to dial for long range, it is always the same direction.

I have listened to the pros talk about parallax, and it is a bigger issue at close range when you are trying to zero or shoot groups. As long as it is close, you have to be really shadowing the scope to introduce parallax error even if the parallax isn't set perfect. Like you have to be way off the to side so you see the black.

To piggyback on that, rifle fit becomes very important. If a rifle mounts properly your error factor becomes very low.

 

[hereinaz]

To piggyback on that, rifle fit becomes very important. If a rifle mounts properly your error factor becomes very low.

Amen. I spent a ton of time learning how to get comfortable behind a rifle and fitting it is absolutely required.

I have helped buddies fit rifles since, and I have seen how much forcing them to abandon all the things they thought they knew.

I don’t worry about “cheek weld” because my head and body goes to the same relaxed comfortable position. And, my rifle is set up in between prone and seated, because that matters a ton.

I also pull a butt spacer if I am going to be hunting in the cold where I will be using a thick jacket.

 

[Carl Ross]

I absolutely prefer reference points to put me in the ballpark.

When I'm zeroing or testing, I'll actually take the time to dial it out properly.

When I'm shooting things that count (competitions which have fixed time limits, or animals that have unknown time limits) I've never dialed it out like that. I spin the parallax to the reference mark I think it should be, and if the image is fuzzy and I think I have time I'll tweak it from there but it's quick and dirty.

 

[hereinaz]

I absolutely prefer reference points to put me in the ballpark.

When I'm zeroing or testing, I'll actually take the time to dial it out properly.

When I'm shooting things that count (competitions which have fixed time limits, or animals that have unknown time limits) I've never dialed it out like that. I spin the parallax to the reference mark I think it should be, and if the image is fuzzy and I think I have time I'll tweak it from there but it's quick and dirty.

Competitions I do the same really, but it’s no biggie to dial it really close and leave it for the day except the further targets.

Hunting, I have always had the time to dial it out.

 

[MaraviaDave]

I also pull a butt spacer if I am going to be hunting in the cold where I will be using a thick jacket.

An idea, for you to consider, would be to unzip your jacket and put your recoil pad directly on your base layer. This has worked well for me….whether I’m wearing a T-shirt, rain jacket or heavy insulation layers….the rifle to shoulder connection is always the same.