OPINIONS WANTED Bergara Semi-custom

[<cascadehunter>]

Hey all,
Looking for opinions on a semi-custom Bergara. The first rifle I ever bought was a Bergara in 6.5cm and, while I was happy with the rifle, I decided I wanted a magnum cartridge. I choose a tikka in 7mmrm for its smooth stainless action and light weight. Now I almost feel the rifle is TOO light at 7.5# fully loaded. I’ve put close to 400 round through this gun. Some days I’m consistently ringing an 8 inch gong at 500, other days I can not for the life of me hit a 10inch at 400. I’ve read that a heavier rifle is more forgiving, so I’m exploring the idea of putting together something in the 10.5# range. Would this help cover some of my inconsistencies or am I trying to throw gear at a skill problem?

If I go this route it would likely look like this:
Bergara Ridge in 7mmrm or 300wm
Iota EKO stock
APA little bastard
Vortex Razor LHT 3-15
Should come in close to 10.5 scoped.

I guess this is two separate questions, one regarding shootability and weight, the other regarding the rifle components in question.
Apologies for being so long winded. I have many questions. Thanks for any input.

 

[hodgeman]

Heavier rifles tend to be easier to shoot and harder to pack.

I hunt more than I shoot, I'll take a light rifle every time. You might go the middle route and add a heavier stock and brake to your existing Tikka.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Some days I’m consistently ringing an 8 inch gong at 500, other days I can not for the life of me hit a 10inch at 400. I’ve read that a heavier rifle is more forgiving, so I’m exploring the idea of putting together something in the 10.5# range. Would this help cover some of my inconsistencies or am I trying to throw gear at a skill problem?

Sounds like you have a flinching problem. A heavier gun will soak up more recoil, but that brake will add a significant amount of muzzle blast, which can be just as flinch inducing. Rather than just get a heavier gun, work on removing the flinch. If you don't it will carry over.

A couple of things you can try. If you are shooting from a bench, get a set-up that allows for you to sit higher (with your back more straight up and down). This will allow you to absorb that recoil better.
Dry-fire practice. One of the things that I do regularly is sit on my couch, put a rifle in a bipod or tripod, cycle the bolt, get settled and pull the trigger. I do it 100-200 times, just working on getting the feel of the rifle shouldered and getting consistent trigger pull. This will help you to concentrate on the process of the shot rather than the anticipation of the recoil.
One final thing I can add is to always wear double hearing protection. As I stated above, muzzle blast can induce flinching almost as much as recoil. Putting in double hearing protection ensures that noise won't be a problem.

 

[<cascadehunter>]

Heavier rifles tend to be easier to shoot and harder to pack.

I hunt more than I shoot, I'll take a light rifle every time. You might go the middle route and add a heavier stock and brake to your existing Tikka.

I have had a brake on the tikka almost it’s whole life but I have thought about this option as well. Something I’ve been curious about: is all weight on a a rifle created equal? As in will a rifle with a carbon fiber stock and a heavy steel barrel shoot the same as a rifle with a heavy stock and a pencil barrel if their total weights are the same? Another gripe I have about my tikka is that you’re limited to 3 round groups and a very long cool down, particularly on an 85 degree day in the summer when I’m doing most of my shooting.

 

[<cascadehunter>]

Sounds like you have a flinching problem. A heavier gun will soak up more recoil, but that brake will add a significant amount of muzzle blast, which can be just as flinch inducing. Rather than just get a heavier gun, work on removing the flinch. If you don't it will carry over.

A couple of things you can try. If you are shooting from a bench, get a set-up that allows for you to sit higher (with your back more straight up and down). This will allow you to absorb that recoil better.
Dry-fire practice. One of the things that I do regularly is sit on my couch, put a rifle in a bipod or tripod, cycle the bolt, get settled and pull the trigger. I do it 100-200 times, just working on getting the feel of the rifle shouldered and getting consistent trigger pull. This will help you to concentrate on the process of the shot rather than the anticipation of the recoil.
One final thing I can add is to always wear double hearing protection. As I stated above, muzzle blast can induce flinching almost as much as recoil. Putting in double hearing protection ensures that noise won't be a problem.

This is all good advice. I almost always dry fire a few times at the range before chambering a round but I’m sure doing hundreds of repetitions at home would be best.
I agree that the blast from a brake, while different than recoil, has its own way of affecting you as the shooter. Are there some brakes that are more pleasant to shoot? Is there a give and take between recoil dampening and how much blast washes back on the shooter? I’m shooting a basic radial right now.
Side note: help me understand this one. Last time I was at the range I sat down and shot a beautiful .5 inch group at 100. Let it cool off to the touch (it was in the 40s). My next group (and two that followed) were at 200 and were 4-5 inches. What the hell is going on there? I’ve shot like that before and it always leaves me scratching my head. Eventually I had to call it good enough as Im extremely short on ammo and trying to close out the hunting season.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Side note: help me understand this one. Last time I was at the range I sat down and shot a beautiful .5 inch group at 100. Let it cool off to the touch (it was in the 40s). My next group (and two that followed) were at 200 and were 4-5 inches. What the hell is going on there? I’ve shot like that before and it always leaves me scratching my head. Eventually I had to call it good enough as Im extremely short on ammo and trying to close out the hunting season.

What scope are you using? In most cases, if you are shooting small groups at 100 and the groups open up significantly at 200 it is either shooter induced (you are not consistant) or you have a parallax problem.
I was having the same issue with a standard SFP plex scope. Switched it out with a higher end FFP scope with parallax adjustments and the problem went away immediately.

 

[<cascadehunter>]

What scope are you using? In most cases, if you are shooting small groups at 100 and the groups open up significantly at 200 it is either shooter induced (you are not consistant) or you have a parallax problem.
I was having the same issue with a standard SFP plex scope. Switched it out with a higher end FFP scope with parallax adjustments and the problem went away immediately.

Right now the rifle is topped with a Razor LHT 3-15. I wouldn’t expect that to be the problem but I’m far from an expert (or even mediocre) shooter. On that note, I find my self rarely if ever using the top 5x of the magnification. Would it benefit me to move down to a stouter scope with less magnification on my next rifle? I’ve been looking at the NF NXS 2.5-10x42. I have the budget for it but I want to ensure it’s worthwhile.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

have you removed the barrel bumps from your tikka stock?

If it were me, I'd be upgrading the tikka (starting with the scope and only making more changes if necessary), or adding a smaller cartridge, not buying a heavier magnum. Anyhow, you might want to read the 223 hunting thread, the scope testing forums, th 6mm and 6.5mm kill threads before spending $.

 

[Harvey_NW]

The only Bergara I ever owned didn't shoot worth a shit and was the only rifle I've ever had to try multiple load combos for to get it to shoot acceptable, and after I got a load it had a tight chamber so it required a body sizing collet die just to reload for, and my buddies Ridge is the exact same way (both 7RM). If you only shoot factory, might work for you.

I love Tikkas, I have a few customs built on their actions. I suggest putting that money toward a solid carbon stock, and a quality prefit (or even better send it to Kampfeld Customs to outfit it perfectly) in a little heavier contour. To give you an Idea of a combo and weight, my Tikka-280ai has a straight fluted Bartlein #3 contour 24" barrel w/ brake, Mesa precision stock, Talley rings, Zeiss V4 - 8lbs 5.5oz without bipod, 9lbs 2oz with. It's not an anchor to carry, and is a very solid platform for me.

Take into consideration that Tikka limits the potential of a true long action cartridge, so if you reload or plan to reload, you'll want to stick to a short mag or medium length cartridge (Tikka length and 7PRC are gonna go together like peanut butter and jelly). If you only shoot factory ammo a 7RM, or 280ai for even more manageable recoil, will fit the bill.

 

[<cascadehunter>]

have you removed the barrel bumps from your tikka stock?

If it were me, I'd be upgrading the tikka (starting with the scope and only making more changes if necessary), or adding a smaller cartridge, not buying a heavier magnum. Anyhow, you might want to read the 223 hunting thread, the scope testing forums, th 6mm and 6.5mm kill threads before spending $.

I don’t want to start a cartridge debate since that’s been beat to death for as long as hunting forums have existed…. but I’m set on something .284 or 30 cal. I’ve killed stuff with .243 and 6.5. Based on my experiences in the woods, I want a little more horsepower. As far as “barrel bumps” is that the recoil lugs you’re referring to? I’ve read about people removing them or changing them out to steel but I’m not well knowledged on their function or how that might change the performance. Educate me? And as far as the scope goes I would entertain going down in magnification an up in build quality. Is there something wrong specifically with the razor LHT? I’ve been checking out the NF NXS

 

[Harvey_NW]

As far as “barrel bumps” is that the recoil lugs you’re referring to?

No, there are 2 contact points in the barrel channel that support the barrel. Typically barrels shoot best completely free floated. Tikkas are known for shooting great out of the box. I removed them once, and things went a little haywire, so I advise proceeding with caution if you decide to do that.

Another issue Tikkas can have is if the action screws get loose and isn't firmly seated against the recoil lug. I'd pull it apart and clean and degrease everything, make sure there's no debris, then reassemble and torque it down. When you reassemble put the action screws in and just barely snug them up making sure the recoil lug is in the slot (you'll feel it click when you're setting it in, or you can slide it back and forth a bit to be sure) and drop it on the butt on the ground a couple times from a few inches to seat it. Then torque, unbedded in a composite factory stock 40in/lb usually does the trick for me.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

if you take your tikka a part a little bit, there are 2 plastic bumps in the forearm that contact the barrel. they can cause POI issues. remove them - but if you're flinching it won't make a bit of difference. Trying to make the gun heavier so you can flinch with less effect seems like a worse strategy than trying to fix your flinch, but it's your life and $, so do whatever I guess.

Razor LHT is a lightning rod scope, just like the Mark 5 on this site.

Vortex Razor HD LHT 4.5-22x50mm Field Eval

Ryan Avery asked if I would review this scope in the same vein as the Meopta Optika 6 and Tanget Theta evaluations and I agreed. I get queried about these scopes almost as much as any, and even though I have seen poor performance from the prior LHT’s, this is a different design and will be...

www.rokslide.com

 

[<cascadehunter>]

if you take your tikka a part a little bit, there are 2 plastic bumps in the forearm that contact the barrel. they can cause POI issues. remove them - but if you're flinching it won't make a bit of difference. Trying to make the gun heavier so you can flinch with less effect seems like a worse strategy than trying to fix your flinch, but it's your life and $, so do whatever I guess.

Razor LHT is a lightning rod scope, just like the Mark 5 on this site.

Vortex Razor HD LHT 4.5-22x50mm Field Eval

Ryan Avery asked if I would review this scope in the same vein as the Meopta Optika 6 and Tanget Theta evaluations and I agreed. I get queried about these scopes almost as much as any, and even though I have seen poor performance from the prior LHT’s, this is a different design and will be...

www.rokslide.com

Circling back two years later to say that you were right and I was wrong. Some flavor of 6.5 is in the works…..

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Suppressed 6.5 creed shoots pretty soft, but suppressed 223 is even more fun.

 

[<cascadehunter>]

Suppressed 6.5 creed shoots pretty soft, but suppressed 223 is even more fun.

What’s your personal bullet choice for a 6 or 6.5? 147 eld-m made 2 VERY satisfactory wound channels at 330 on a bear from a 24 inch PRC last year. Now I have a can so it will be coupled with whatever cartridge gives adequate velocity out of a 20”.
.223 is not legal for big game in my home state

 

[ResearchinStuff]

6.5 Creedmoor/260 for Deer, Elk, and whatever else.....

Seeing that the 223 thread is such a success, I thought maybe I would start one for the Creedmoor/260. Seems like people are asking a lot about using them and various bullets, especially for elk. I've used mine for the last few years almost exclusively. I have some pics of bullet damage, albeit...

rokslide.com

Basically any eld 130gr+, or the 130 tmk.

Terminal range is wherever you drop to 1800 fps. For me, with 130 tmk or 140 eld, that's 600-650 yards with an 18" creed depending on elevation

 

[<cascadehunter>]

6.5 Creedmoor/260 for Deer, Elk, and whatever else.....

Seeing that the 223 thread is such a success, I thought maybe I would start one for the Creedmoor/260. Seems like people are asking a lot about using them and various bullets, especially for elk. I've used mine for the last few years almost exclusively. I have some pics of bullet damage, albeit...

rokslide.com

Basically any eld 130gr+, or the 130 tmk.

Terminal range is wherever you drop to 1800 fps. For me, with 130 tmk or 140 eld, that's 600-650 yards with an 18" creed depending on elevation

My self imposed max right now is 400 but I have aspirations to reach 6.
Sounds like a 147eldm would suit me perfectly, particularly since I do not handload and they are widely available
Increasingly I’m seeing that 6.5cm could have been a one-gun solution for hunting AND range days from the very jump.
I’m young and naive. It’s too bad I pissed away so many dollars to come to the same conclusion that’s so widely supported here.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I've been through it too.

 

[SloppyJ]

My buddy picked up a carbon barreled Bergara and is having a hell of a time with it sticking cases in the chamber. As a result the bolt broke off and he had to weld it back on. It happened on hornady and federal loads so my money is that there is something wrong with the chamber. It needs to go back. After witnessing this, I'm not sure I'd give them my money.