New to Archery: So many questions

philcox

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Nov 27, 2018
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Auburn, CA
I am new to Archery, and getting into this, I have a ton of questions, so figure I'd post them here to get some input:
My setup: Hoyt PowerMax (60-70), FastEddie XL Single Pin adjustable, GoldTip Hunter arrows (shop prefetched) with field tips, trigger release. I have it set to 70#, have a 27.5 draw length. I have a set of Rice Bales with a target in the middle, and can get up to about 55 yards for practice (that is as far back as I can get). I try to shoot about 18-20 arrows a day at 20-30 yards. So with that, I'd be interested on thoughts

  1. How easy should it be for me to draw the bow. At 70#, there is a bit of strain to pull straight back. I'd like to shoot at 70, and figured that it would build some strength as well, but I don't know if it will cause form issues?
  2. What techniques, are there to steady my bow arm? I feel like I can hold it pretty solid for a few seconds right after the draw, but then it starts to "wander" a bit.
  3. Should I get a poundage and sight in the FastEddie right now, or just shoot close for a while and sight is in later?
  4. Is it wise to start shooting from different positions this early in the learning curve?
Anything other early habits a new archer should develop would be helpful as well.

A couple pics of my setup are attached: My Hoyt, Hoyt and the 3 arrows I use to practice with (I only shoot 3 at a time), my target, my 30 and 55 yard views, and my set at 20 yards.

Thanks,

Phil
 

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GregB

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Drop your poundage to 60 and learn proper form and technique. If you're comfortable shooting past 20 then go ahead and sight in at those ranges. It's natural for your pin to float while you are aiming. I would wait until form and technique are good before shooting from different positions. Once you are good with form technique and strength you can up the poundage and adjust your pins. There are a lot of good form and technique videos on the internet. Better yet if you can get a good coach it it will make life easier.
 

taz_gerstman

Lil-Rokslider
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Nov 27, 2017
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alabama
First let me say congrats to a very exciting and rewarding hobby or life style. I have been bow hunting for over 25 years or more and I love it. It seems to me that you have a very good setup from an equipment standpoint. I am no expert but I can offer some advice. #1 now that you have entered into this sport everyone you know and even the ones you don't know think they are experts so take what they say with a grain of salt. haha. Harvesting an animal is all about shot placement and the only way to get really good shot placement is to practice. Sometimes a good quality practice is not shooting 20 arrows a day. Sometimes it is shooting only maybe 2 or 3. Remember that you only get, most times, only get 1 shot so make that one count. Practice technique. I would recommend finding either someone you trust or a local archery specialist and take some 1 on 1 classes. Things that can help are stance, breathing, form, etc. Don't think your alone because my arm starts to wander as well. A lot of times I start my practice by shooting really close to the bag, I am usually working on form or breathing or I have a tendency to be too fast on the trigger so I work on slowing that down and trying to slow my brain down. It gives me a chance to loosen up a bit as well. I always stretch before I shoot. Nothing too in depth. I personally think 70# is over kill. I have taken many game at 55lbs however a lot of that depends on your hunting. I am not a speed junkie. I wont optimal performance and sometimes its not 400fps. I want to keep my shoulders in place so I can hunt for a long time. There are days when i will go out and shoot say 3 arrows at 20 yards and feel great about it and i am done. I feel that sometimes if you practice too much at one time you over exhaust yourself and muscles and you start making more mistakes. Overall it is what is comfortable to you and what makes you happy so you can enjoy the sport and have a great time. it is not a bad idea to do some sort of strengthening exercises just to build up some of those areas that might not get a lot of use or as much as others. I am not saying you have to be on an Arnold program. Watch youtube. lots of great videos by people who hunt for a living and they have great training programs. you can always start at a certain poundage and then set your sight and as you adjust the poundage adjust your sight accordingly. This is just my two cents worth on the things that I do. everyone is different and you may find a few things from others that will work for you. never know. Just practice, have fun and enjoy the highs and the lows because even the lows in hunting are exciting.
 

BDT60x

FNG
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Mar 19, 2019
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Use lower poundage to help develop good forum. Bad habits come quick when you try to force to much weight. Don't worry about where you are hitting right away, even groups don't matter right away. Blank bail shooting is the most underutilized training aids out there. There is a lot of good resources out there on proper shooting technique. Nock On youtube channel and podcasts are a very good tools to help develop good habits.
 

19hunt92

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Mar 21, 2018
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  1. How easy should it be for me to draw the bow. At 70#, there is a bit of strain to pull straight back. I'd like to shoot at 70, and figured that it would build some strength as well, but I don't know if it will cause form issues?
Response: how easy should it be: you should be able, on a cold day, with your hunting clothes on, pull back smoothly without jerking to not scare any game. If that means, 50 lbs at season, shoot 50 lbs. For form, if you can hold comfortably, shoot away, your muscles will only form with pulling the weight repeatedly.
  1. What techniques, are there to steady my bow arm? I feel like I can hold it pretty solid for a few seconds right after the draw, but then it starts to "wander" a bit.
Response: Your muscles will eventually get built up in the areas that keep you steady. Right now, keep a slow, repeatable cycle in your arm drift i.e. a figure 8 or something you can repeat. DO NOT jerk the bow towards the center when you try to release the arrow, you're only as good as your hold and trying to pull the bow in will result in frustration and false results. If you have a 4" group at 20, that's where you are. Some days will be better, some worse but eventually you will have more good days than bad.
  1. Should I get a poundage and sight in the FastEddie right now, or just shoot close for a while and sight is in later?
Response: Start at 20 and build your confidence. 30 if you are feeling good that day. Refer to the previous response in the fact that if you "wonder" at 60 yards in such a big area, you wont be able to reliably set that pin in the center of the group to be perfectly accurate. GET PRECISE, then GET ACCURATE.
  1. Is it wise to start shooting from different positions this early in the learning curve?
Response: don't complicate things early. You have time until season. Eventually you will get close to season, then set up hunting scenarios. You will quickly find your ethical hunting range (paper plate size target) that you can hit every time in certain situations. Learn and get confidence first, then find your limits on the living thing.
 
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philcox

philcox

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Auburn, CA
Appreciate the input so far. Based on the few, I think the following is in order:
  • Drop the weight back to low 60's, as that was more comfortable right now. As I build strength, I can add weight if I want and resight near season.
  • I have a good friend who has bow hunted for years, he offered to go shoot with me. I will take him up on it.
  • I am going to go through the Nock On beginner series on YouTube
  • Just keep shooting in the 20-30 yard range and build muscle memory
  • As for other "training" I am an avid P90X guy (been doing it for years), and I have a "weighted pack" plan April 75#, May 85#, June 95#, July 105#. I figure all of that should get me "there" when the season opens.
Again, thanks for the input!
 

GregB

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I would be careful about doing a lot of heavy rucking. It's hard on the body and joints and increases the chance of injury, either while training or later in life.
 

taz_gerstman

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I really like the statement that 19hunt92 stated about being ethical. As hunters we owe it to the game to be as ethical as possible. With this responsibility comes much practice and preparation. I again don't see the need for 70# of draw weight but that is just me. Like GregB said you want to grow old being able to enjoy the sport you love so go slow and I am a big fan of the blank bail shooting. good luck
 
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philcox

philcox

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I would be careful about doing a lot of heavy rucking. It's hard on the body and joints and increases the chance of injury, either while training or later in life.

Yep. At this time, I am working up to it. Started with about 30# in December. Have some hills to hike with the wife. I am a bit later in life, so trying not to be to hard on the body, but also not get blown up if I have to carry something out this fall.
 
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philcox

philcox

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I really like the statement that 19hunt92 stated about being ethical. As hunters we owe it to the game to be as ethical as possible. With this responsibility comes much practice and preparation. I again don't see the need for 70# of draw weight but that is just me. Like GregB said you want to grow old being able to enjoy the sport you love so go slow and I am a big fan of the blank bail shooting. good luck

Agreed. Time to "back it down" and prepare. My goal is to be proficient for a clean kill. I have no desire to wound an animal because of my lack of preparation. Still might happen, but not because I was being lazy!
 

GregB

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I don't do more than 30-40# for training hikes to build muscular and cardiovascular endurance. This is what will get you through multiple days of hunting and packing out an animal without your legs giving out. Your day pack will weigh 20ish pounds, and when I get an animal down once I get back to camp I strip the pack down to pack out the rest. Randy Newberg has an interesting video where he weights a 5 or 6 point quartered up bone in elk. The rear quarters bone in weighed about 60# each.
 

87TT

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I have the same bow. When I bought it, it was at 60#. My old bow was at what I thought around 67#. I think I started this one at 65# and started the year. I did this until I could draw it smooth and didn't get too tired quickly. After some time, I cranked it up a half turn and repeated. I think I was around the 68# mark and found that if I went up any more I could draw but was only good for a half dozen shots or so. Eventually I got stronger and now am maxed out on the adjustment but can still draw smooth and more importantly for elk hunting especially, can hold full draw for over a minute.
Your target set up reminds me of my old set up when I lived in town. I can tell you that that tight 50 yard shot is just begging for a mishap should you flinch or have some other AD. Don't ask me how I know. Haha
 
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