New rifle build- help me out

[flatlanderhuffandpuff]

I am going to build up a new rifle with the intention to be my western hunting go-to. Weight is not nece I have a .270 for eastern hunting in a very budget friendly Winchester model 70.

My dad got a Tikka t3x in .270 and I am very impressed with it from both a weight and accuracy standpoint. It is real smooth gun. It was shooting close to 3/4 MOA out of the box.

My thought was to go with the same model in a 300 win mag to better handle larger game. I am a pretty big guy and recoil isn't something that typically bothers me. I am more curious about the accuracy of a larger caliber in a light rifle. I currently have a Vortex viper PST on my .270 and would consider moving it to the larger platform. It would be heavier than I would need it to be but with such a light rifle it's probably only going to help.

Obviously this is not a bench rifle but I would like to use it for some long range shooting.

Bipod is optional.

Bottom line, is the Tikka as good in the larger calibers as the smaller and will an 8-8.5 lb build be too light to shoot?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Tikkas are solid factory rifles in any chambering, a heavier recoiling rifle is pretty much always going to be more difficult to shoot but it's not impossible.

Your 270 will work just as well out west as it does in the east though, there's nothing in the lower 48 that it won't kill effectively.

I would spend the $$ upgrading the glass on your current rifle vs another rifle. Vortex Vipers aren't exactly world class reliable.

 

[wildwilderness]

When I read “Build” I assume a custom rifle not a factory Tikka. As mentioned I don’t see a need for you to get a Tikka when you already have a better .270 that’s more than adequate.


Now if you are ready to talk a “build” let’s discuss which defiance action, manners vs McMillan, proof barrel? Trigger tech, timney? And maybe a 300 PRC for those 1000 yd shots

 

[atmat]

Tikka’s are generally accurate regardless of caliber. You definitely don’t need a 30cal magnum as a Western gun. Many folks here shoot very low-recoiling cartridges and do just fine.

If you DO want to “upgrade” the Tikka, I’d get a nicer scope; Vipers have nice glass but aren’t very rugged. There’s also $100 DIY options that’ll improve your stock quite a bit, as well as aftermarket entirely CF stocks for only $500. Or spend the money cutting your barrel down and adding a suppressor.

When all is said and done, I’ll be at $4250 for a stainless T3x in aftermarket stock with a custom short 6creed barrel, TBAC suppressor, NF scope, and Sportsmatch rings. It’s not a “true custom”, but it’ll be very lightweight, a joy to shoot, and capable of taking elk out west. Money can go a really long way Tikkas.

 

[DaleW]

A 300 win mag tikka without a brake is gonna have some gnarly recoil(ask me how I know). With all the bullets available you would have no problem wacking an elk with your 270. As some others have stated, I would put the money into a scope. Holding zero and turret tracking become more important out west.

 

[davsco]

A 300 win mag tikka without a brake is gonna have some gnarly recoil(ask me how I know).

yes, punishing for sure but of course you feel it at the bench but not in the woods. the hellfire brake i put on makes it very manageable.

after seeing my two elk show almost no signs of being shot with my 300wsm and 180tbt bullets, i'd be hesitant to recommend anything less. i mean, they both died and i realize plenty have fallen to 270, 6.5 creed and lower power rounds. but still if you have the $ for a new gun, that would be my rec in a 300mag or 7 prc/stw.

 

[f16jack]

Focus on the bullet in addition to the gun. I've taken 19 elk with a 7mm Rem Mag. But it wasn't the rifle that killed them. It was the bullet. On the last 7 elk I used 180 grain Berger VLD's. The elk dropped where they stood (except one, who went 10'). With the same caliber the previous 9 elk took multiple shots using 175 grain Nosler Partitions. A well placed Berger from a .270 will do the job.

Muzzle brakes are made for 1) losing your hearing, and 2) blowing everything off the bench next to you at the range. No need for them in the field. When shooting at an animal you'll never feel recoil. At the range a lead sled reduces recoil to nothing. The only reason you shoot that big rifle at the range is to sight it in and verify MOA settings. Marksmanship can be done with a .22, and the shells are a lot cheaper. Use a nice bolt action .22 with a scope. Go through hundreds of shells improving your breathing and trigger feel.

Bipods: make the rifle harder to sling and carry. Adds weight. I'd recommend some shooting sticks instead if you feel they are necessary (I've used them for all hunting after my first African safari 20 years ago).

Scope: Focus here (pun intended). You want one that is made for long range hunting, with appropriate adjustable power, good glass, durability, with MOA/MIL turrets. Low profile turrets are nice also so you don't get hung up on stuff. My current scope is a Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x44 CDS-ZL2. The ZL stands for Zero Lock, a "must have." You need to be able the rezero the scope at any time without looking at it, knowing it will stop at the zero setting. The scope has the MOA adjustments for the long range shots, illuminated firedot (which I have never used), low turrets, and small diameter (44 mm) objective. It's nice while hunting to always have the scope down at a low power (3x), and then be able to dial it to a higher power (generally around 9 or so) if able prior to taking a longer range shot. You could save some moolah by getting their VX-5HD in 3-15x44. You just lose the MOA windage adjustments (I have never used MOA windage, only the MOA elevation , which I use all the time).

Weight: I've both a Kimber Mountain Ascent and a Remington 700 in Stainless/Synthetic (both in 7mm Rem Mag). The Kimber setup is about 3 pounds lighter than the Remington setup. Joy to carry the Kimber, no problem at the range or in the field with recoil. (full disclosure, instead of a muzzle brake I have a suppressor, which has a side benefit of reducing felt recoil). On my backpack wilderness hunts I love the Kimber, and I have the other rifle available as a backup or to loan.

 

[Jon C]

I am going to build up a new rifle with the intention to be my western hunting go-to. Weight is not nece I have a .270 for eastern hunting in a very budget friendly Winchester model 70.

My dad got a Tikka t3x in .270 and I am very impressed with it from both a weight and accuracy standpoint. It is real smooth gun. It was shooting close to 3/4 MOA out of the box.

My thought was to go with the same model in a 300 win mag to better handle larger game. I am a pretty big guy and recoil isn't something that typically bothers me. I am more curious about the accuracy of a larger caliber in a light rifle. I currently have a Vortex viper PST on my .270 and would consider moving it to the larger platform. It would be heavier than I would need it to be but with such a light rifle it's probably only going to help.

Obviously this is not a bench rifle but I would like to use it for some long range shooting.

Bipod is optional.

Bottom line, is the Tikka as good in the larger calibers as the smaller and will an 8-8.5 lb build be too light to shoot?

180gr kicks 165 isn’t bad at all 200gr is nasty in my experience. Shot both 300 wsm and 300 win mags. Never shot a 200gr out of win mag or 165gr out of wsm. Buddies 300 win was pleasant shooting a box of ammo. I cringed with my 300 wsm shooting a box of 200 gr.

 

[desullivan87]

Blaser R8 in 270 WIN is my go to for most game.