Multi-pin slider: which is your rover?

UtahJimmy

WKR
Joined
Jul 6, 2016
Messages
887
Location
SLC, UT
Thanks for the feedback a few weeks ago on sights. I ended up getting the MGB Ascent Verdict 3-pin which I'm stoked on! Got my sight last night, installed it, and shot a few arrows in the basement to get my windage dialed in. I gapped my pins based for now based on the chrono speed tapes until I actually verify where they are hitting at 20 30 and 40.

I'm finding that most use the bottom pin for their rover for the longer shots. Is the reasoning so that you have sight housing/fletching clearance at distance?

Question for you multi-pin slider guys: Which pin do you use and why?

While I was tinkering last night I thought the middle might be a good pin to float so that you have a reference if the animal comes in closer or farther than you originally thought. The pin gaps will always be less than 10 yards once you move the sight, and I would plan on knowing exact distances once moving but just a thought? Say you have a bull on the move which you think you'll have come through at 45 yards. Slide middle pin from 30 to 45 and you'll probably now have pins at say: 37 45 and 53. Which allows you to make minor aiming adjustments without having to touch the slider?

Anybody try running this setup and recommend to stay away?

Thanks for your input!
 
I used my bottom pin as well and had clearance to 110 . Trial153 uses his middle maybe he will chime in . Im curious as to how to set the middle one as well , i thinkim going with the same sight you got


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I use a 5-pin Tommy Hogg and I use the bottom pin as well. I have the option of fixed pins at 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 yards or I can use the bottom pin from 20 to 100 yards with plenty of fletching clearance. In my opinion, if I was still hunting and calling in game to within 60 yards, then I prefer to use my fixed pins so I know exactly what my pin gaps are and I can make adjustments to my aim without letting down. If I am hunting from a stand or spot and stalking relatively stationary game with plenty of time to set up the shot, then I would rather dial in the range. That's why I like multi-pin sliders.....more options.
 
i use the lowest. 3 pin here. right now, twist the scope all the way down and see where it lines up on your tape. i got lucky and mine maxes out at 100. but, i noted my vanes would hit the housing. i think moved the pins down, so i could get the housing up..i just clear.

it would be best to kind of eyeball it now.
 
Thanks for the feedback a few weeks ago on sights. I ended up getting the MGB Ascent Verdict 3-pin which I'm stoked on! Got my sight last night, installed it, and shot a few arrows in the basement to get my windage dialed in. I gapped my pins based for now based on the chrono speed tapes until I actually verify where they are hitting at 20 30 and 40.

I'm finding that most use the bottom pin for their rover for the longer shots. Is the reasoning so that you have sight housing/fletching clearance at distance?

Question for you multi-pin slider guys: Which pin do you use and why?

While I was tinkering last night I thought the middle might be a good pin to float so that you have a reference if the animal comes in closer or farther than you originally thought. The pin gaps will always be less than 10 yards once you move the sight, and I would plan on knowing exact distances once moving but just a thought? Say you have a bull on the move which you think you'll have come through at 45 yards. Slide middle pin from 30 to 45 and you'll probably now have pins at say: 37 45 and 53. Which allows you to make minor aiming adjustments without having to touch the slider?

Anybody try running this setup and recommend to stay away?

Thanks for your input!

I run the same set up for the same reason. It works out excellent and has more practical application then the slight range you lose by not using your your bottom pin.

Really simple math for most bows is 10 below 50 and 5 above fifty.
Meaning any distance you set your floater to below 50 your top and bottom pins are minus 10 and plus 10. And if your floater is over 50 you top pin is minus 5 bottom is plus 5.

It becomes second nature to use. And as an added bonus if your sight is set up correctly your floater will always be center of the housing as well.
 
Why not run a single pin sighted in at 50 yards and use the trick pin system where you just aim a foot low for anything less than fifty yards and then move the slider down for anything beyond 50 yards. It would be simpler, less pins to think about. Sight in distance will vary depending on bow strength and arrow weight.
 
I use a three pin slider, 20, 30, and 50. The extra gap gives me a clearer sight picture with the floater, and the gap between 30 and 50 is small enough that gap shooting 40 is easy. 50 to 60 is also easy to hold over. So this set up gives me everything from 10 to 60 without having to move a thing.


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Trial - Thanks for the confirmation, I'm going to try and run the middle pin float to start. Reading into your second post; I should center my middle pin and sight that pin first then move the top and bottom? Any disadvantage to having the pins slightly below center. Closer to level to make it obvious if I need to correct? Sorry for all the questions, my first sight I just sighted in the top pin and ran with it for a few years!

Piscatory - I'm hesitant to go to a single for now for a few reasons, with the biggest being that I just don't have the experience to have the confidence in myself with a single pin

Looking at fletching clearance, I should have more than enough travel to get to 100 so this should be fun to practice those longer distances.
 
Trial - Thanks for the confirmation, I'm going to try and run the middle pin float to start. Reading into your second post; I should center my middle pin and sight that pin first then move the top and bottom? Any disadvantage to having the pins slightly below center. Closer to level to make it obvious if I need to correct? Sorry for all the questions, my first sight I just sighted in the top pin and ran with it for a few years!

Piscatory - I'm hesitant to go to a single for now for a few reasons, with the biggest being that I just don't have the experience to have the confidence in myself with a single pin

Looking at fletching clearance, I should have more than enough travel to get to 100 so this should be fun to practice those longer distances.

Zero out your sight block so you have a solid repeatable. reference point. I can't emphasize that enough. Then center your middle pin in the housing. Use your gang adjustments at this point to set your middle pin. Once your set then use the individual pin adjustment both above and below for your other pins. I don't like the sight picture if pins are too high or low in the housing, just a personal thing for me. With it centered I then adjust my dovetail in or out to get the peep sight alinement that suits me.
Something I also am fond of doing is setting my tape/ yard markets using the single center pin then adjusting the other pins after as it gives a positive confirmation.
 
I also have the MBG 3 pin ascent. I think it's a great sight. I set mine up for a 20, 30, 50 and use the bottom pin as the floater. I really do not like the look at a whole bunch of pins, I would really have a hard time shooting 5-7 pins, like some guys can, but I also don't think I'd like shooting single pin either (plus I hate the vertical post). I also agree with setting the pins where you like them, I don't like them too high or low in the ring.
 
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