Mathews Atlas with Hamskea Epsilon fletching contact

[Mi_fiveo]

I’m having a hard time eliminating fletching contact on my Mathews Atlas with the new Hamskea Epsilon. My arrows are 4 fletched with AAE max Stealth vanes and the fletching contact is showing on the launcher arm. I was having the same issue with my Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro on this bow. I previously had a VXR with that same rest on it and never had any fletching contact.

I started out with the rope attached at the limb tip with the Hamskea Mathews bracket but had fletching contact. I have moved the rope an inch at a time down the limb and applied chapstick to the launcher arm to check for continued fletching contact. Even with the rope perpendicular to the limb, I’m still having the same contact. As a last resort I attached the rope to the bottom yoke but I’m still getting contact. The rebound dampener is adjusted close to the attachment point and the clamp is within an inch of the pivoting arm on the rest. I might have to try 3 fletch arrows or play with the launcher spring tension. Any other ideas?

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Yoke

 

[Billy Goat]

Have you put it on a draw board? Where is the rest actually timing? Might be you need more tension on the cable, that rubber dampner will stretch pretty good.


I tried several places with one on a v3x 33 and settled on fastening it close to the inside bolt on the limb plate, however trying a bunch of different places I was able to have the recommended timing, just depended a lot on having the right cord tension to begin with. Seems like that might be your problem, with the limbs driving your rest, the launcher has to be out of the way once the fletching gets there.


I tried fastening on the donut for the yoke too, it timed the rest ok, however I didn't like the pull it put on the yoke. Figured that would play hell with tuning if the dampner stretched out any.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

With this particular bow no matter where I put the cord as soon as any tension is applied to the string by drawing it, the launcher arm starts to come up. Which from what I can see means that it will not drop until the string is almost completely back to it’s starting position, hence the fletching contact.

 

[Billy Goat]

Try putting more tension on the cord with the football thing they include. Probably takes 3 hands.

Pull the snot out of the cord towards the rest, stretching the dampner.

I wouldn't mind if the rest moves as soon as you start the draw process, the limb will have it out of the way once your arrow is there, assuming you have the activation cord tight, I'm not meaning just snug, it needs to be pretty tight.

 

[Billy Goat]

Or, your vanes are tall enough that you just don't get clearance from the launcher arm at rest. It does sweep up, what is the launcher arm angle at full draw? Might be that it's down, it's just still not enough clearance. You could try adjusting the launcher angle to get your shaft sitting higher off the pivot.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I’ll try those ideas. I reduced the spring tension on the launcher arm to start with. I’ve been pulling the cord tension pretty tight before clamping the cord. If I hold an arrow level with the Berger button, the vane clearance looks to be about 1/2” with the launcher arm when it’s down.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Also I left the center shot alone and tuned with top hats until I got a bullet hole.

 

[Billy Goat]

This looks to me like the activation cord doesn't have enough tension. Maybe your cord is thicker, but mine lays pretty flat.






Picture of mine.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I replaced the cord that came with it. It’s just d loop cord but I wonder if the thicker cord has something to do with these issues. I’ll snug it down more and see what happens.

 

[OR Archer]

Have you tried changing your spring tension?

 

[sndmn11]

Adam, I agree you need significantly more tension on the cord. I would call @devinhal this week and talk to the man himself.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Have you tried changing your spring tension?

I loosened it up one notch and with the cord straight down to the limb I believe the contact is gone. Need to do some more testing to make sure. Also cinched the cord down tighter.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Adam, I agree you need significantly more tension on the cord. I would call @devinhal this week and talk to the man himself.

I emailed him a few times when I was trying to correct the same issue with the Hybrid Hunter Pro on this bow.

 

[sndmn11]

I emailed him a few times when I was trying to correct the same issue with the Hybrid Hunter Pro on this bow.

Do you have the original cord?

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Yes I’ll probably be installing it to see how that affects the fletching contact. I like trial and error until I can confirm any contact is gone.

 

[bigW]

Also I left the center shot alone and tuned with top hats until I got a bullet hole.

how can you be confident that this is a real bullet hole when you have fletching contact? ...your nock point might be too low and the fletching contact is just enough to correct it...with the Mathews the knock point should be a little bit (approx. 1/8 - 1/4") above the burger hole...

 

[Mi_fiveo]

That’s why I want to verify I’m no longer getting any contact and then check it again through paper for fine tuning. I’m always super tuning

 

[bigW]

That’s why I want to verify I’m no longer getting any contact and then check it again through paper for fine tuning. I’m always super tuning

without the fletching contact you would very likely have a tail low tear, which could mean that your knock point would be too low...

Eta: what do you get for paper tuning when you shoot a bareshaft?

Eta: ...or your rest respectively the launcher is too high....

 

[Billy Goat]

how can you be confident that this is a real bullet hole when you have fletching contact? ...your nock point might be too low and the fletching contact is just enough to correct it...with the Mathews the knock point should be a little bit (approx. 1/8 - 1/4") above the burger hole...

With the new Mathews, you are best to put the loop centered between the axles.

I start with the arrow through the Berger hole with the rest, when tuning if it needs an adjustment for nock high or low I adjust the rest and leave the loop centered between the axles.