Making heavy bullets work in a 300 Rum

I have a Christensen carbon extreme in the pile. I had good luck with 215's at mag length. I've made moa hits to the mile with the combo.
 
I have an older Christensen Carbon Classic in 300 RUM and I love it. Light to carry, manages the Rum recoil well, it even has a reputation in my circle of friends as a killer and has not only harvested dozens of animals for me it has done the same in their hands as well as it is barrowed often. With 180 grn. accubonds factory ammo it shoots 1/2 MOA-ish (which is all I shoot in it now) once you feed it 200s or 210 ABLR or Bergers it opens up. With it's least favorite being the HSM 210 bergers that I could never get to group better than an 1"-1-1/4", even when I ran them out to 400 yard hoping they would "stabilize". I don't reload but would like to it's just with kids, work, travel and life makes me think I would drop the coin on the equipment, and it would all collect dust.

I run Kenton dials on a Zeiss 5 X 25 and am confident with them to 600 YDs but would like to push my shooting further and have been playing with hard dope and a kestrel to push my confident shooting to 800+. That being said running some heavier bullets with higher BCs would be nice. Any ideas, and if it is just reload, maybe some guidance on techniques on finding loads for heavier bullets that have worked for you in the past.
Based on the initial heavy loads you tried, I’d bet lunch no amount of reloading will get that barrel to suddenly fall in love with heavies. I’ve been there and it drives you nuts always wishing and wanting to try something new to hopefully be the secret. Bullet stabilization is probably the issue regardless of the twist. Something, maybe rifling irregularities, or oversized bore, or something else is spitting out bullets just barely stabilized at 180 gr and anything heavier simply requires a touch better.

I’d love to be wrong and just a different powder or seating depth is all that’s required, but I simply haven’t seen that personally. The guys in this situation who seem to have put in the work to find a sweet spot reloading, usually admit it’s a picky solution on the verge of wandering outside the sweet spot. You don’t have to know today, but keep in the back of your mind there may be a point of calling it, tapping out, and moving onto to a different barrel. It’s hard to give up on something that’s almost what you want, but sometimes, “the enemy of the best is the good.” You have a whole lot of new found fun reloading, so messing with it more than you should is still worthwhile as a learning experience.
 
Based on the initial heavy loads you tried, I’d bet lunch no amount of reloading will get that barrel to suddenly fall in love with heavies. I’ve been there and it drives you nuts always wishing and wanting to try something new to hopefully be the secret. Bullet stabilization is probably the issue regardless of the twist. Something, maybe rifling irregularities, or oversized bore, or something else is spitting out bullets just barely stabilized at 180 gr and anything heavier simply requires a touch better.

I’d love to be wrong and just a different powder or seating depth is all that’s required, but I simply haven’t seen that personally. The guys in this situation who seem to have put in the work to find a sweet spot reloading, usually admit it’s a picky solution on the verge of wandering outside the sweet spot. You don’t have to know today, but keep in the back of your mind there may be a point of calling it, tapping out, and moving onto to a different barrel. It’s hard to give up on something that’s almost what you want, but sometimes, “the enemy of the best is the good.” You have a whole lot of new found fun reloading, so messing with it more than you should is still worthwhile as a learning experience.

Possible but I wouldn't take a rifles performance with factory loaded 210 VLD or 210 ABLRs as strong evidence it wont shoot any of them well. VLDs can be jump sensitive and ABLR are known as a finicky bullet.

For the OP, getting started in reloading i'd avoid all the voodoo reading that led you to primer pocket work, neck turning, and "tuning" at longer range and just try bullet/powder combos seated 50 thou off the lands until something works.
 
I'm inclined think Taperpin is on to something but I know I'd want to try a few hand loads just to be certain.

I'd try a 215 or 230 Berger Hybrid at .020 or .030 off the lands. I say specifically the hybrids as they're the least sensitive to seating depth IMO.

I'd run a ladder test at 300 then pick a couple of charge weights to test. You'll know quickly if it's worth pursuing.

FWIW, I ran 230's in a 10 twist 30 Nos at sea level with no issues out to 800 yards. I really wish I still had that rifle, it was a great shooter.
 
Possible but I wouldn't take a rifles performance with factory loaded 210 VLD or 210 ABLRs as strong evidence it wont shoot any of them well. VLDs can be jump sensitive and ABLR are known as a finicky bullet.

For the OP, getting started in reloading i'd avoid all the voodoo reading that led you to primer pocket work, neck turning, and "tuning" at longer range and just try bullet/powder combos seated 50 thou off the lands until something works.
That’s good advice all around.
 
Dropped $2K on reloading equipment but still trying to find the time to actually make some cartridges. The heavy factory loads don't shoot well in my rifle so I am going to start .020 off the lands with a few bullet/powder combinations and develop from there.
 
Dropped $2K on reloading equipment but still trying to find the time to actually make some cartridges. The heavy factory loads don't shoot well in my rifle so I am going to start .020 off the lands with a few bullet/powder combinations and develop from there.

IF i was you, I'd set the seating die according to factory ammo you found that shoots in your gun and slowly work to a longer load. It leaves you with room to load longer and longer as you erode the throat.
 
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