- Joined
- May 1, 2024
- Messages
- 356
This is long.
Background:
At the end of summer I decided to put together a light weight bolt rifle for an upcoming CO cow elk hunt. I usually hunt with AR based systems in AZ, but have also hunted with a semi-custom tikka in 30-06 with a Maven 1.2 (see 1st pic). I did not want to bring an AR on this trip nor use my current tikka as my primary because it is just shy of 10lbs.
As a tikka fan (before I even joined this forum) I quickly went into action since my time to complete the build by the hunt was very limited. I grabbed a SS super light in 6.5CM, had the barrel chopped to 16” and threaded. Sent the bolt to Kampfeld for fluting, added an OMR handle/knob, and put the rifle into a Stockys stock I bought on the classifieds here (see pic)
Optic choice:
I am a fan of the Maven 1.2 and had a second one to use for this rifle, but I wanted something lighter, more compact, that would sit lower on the rifle since I am using a sporter style stock. I read Form’s review of the Mk4HD 2.5-10 and his not so well findings, but decided to take a risk and bought one with the illuminated FFP TMR.
I mounted the scope in UM low tikka rings, and that worked out great, having the optic very low and just high enough to allow for an AADland flip up cap.
Initial impressions were all positive. Scope met all the criteria I had from a form-factor standpoint. Glass is pretty damn good, reticle is totally useable, etc. For a lightweight rifle (7.5lbs complete with optic and can) that I intended to shoot 500 yards and in, it fit.
Mounting:
As mentioned I used UM low tikka rings. These rings are the best rings I have used. Just robust as can be when pinned and using the tikka dovetail. I see zero reason to ever use a pic rail again on a tikka. I followed the proper mounting protocol of first checking alignment, then degrease, thread locker and proper torque, then nail polish the bolt heads and paint pen witness marks. However, I have always done one more step, which is the use of rosin inside the rings, both bottom and top, for added friction. This is an old school trick I adopted after having continual slippage issues on a big bore AR project.
Experience/real world use:
By the time I had the rifle put together, I was running super short on time (as in two weekends before I leave) to do load dev, field testing etc. I whipped up a quick load ladder with Staball 6.5 and 130gr TMK. Every charge shot great right out of the brand new barrel. I don’t do barrel break in, never believed in it, even before Form. There is no logic behind it. I ended up choosing the 45.5gr load at 2750fps, loaded up 50, hit the desert the Sunday before I left and made final adjustments put 4 shots into the bulls. (Pic; shots with sticks in them was some factory Hornady ammo I tried for fun and it sucked, with super high ES)
I did not follow the 10-shot group best practices in this case. Time and resource short, as I would not have time to make more ammo.
I also did not have time to validate dope properly, instead I lazed a rock at 480, dialed and smoked it, then called it good.
My other tikka accompanied me for the trip as my back up rifle. That rifle has been thoroughly vetted, shot to 1k, and has three kills on it. I have a lot of time/rounds on it.
The mk4HD equipped rifle spent 14 hours in a trailer for the drive there. I arrived one day before opener, so I hit the local range real quick. It was packed, so I got in and fired 5 shots at 100yds. Each shot landed exactly where I broke the shot, not the best shooting cause I was strung out and had braked rifles going off around me. But shots in bulls or just out of. Good to go.
I spent 9 days in the bush, and did over 800 miles in a jeep off-roading with the rifle mostly outside of the case bouncing and banging into other crap (see pics of stock banged up and scope/turret cap). The rifle spent MILES a day being carried in hand, slung over shoulder or in the backpack carrier.
It was snowed on, rained on and while not dropped directly, it took a nice slam when I ate shit in the snow and banged up my knee.
After many elk sightings, a couple unsuccessful stalks, I ambushed a small herd who were crossing a field about 20 mins before sundown. They all stopped in this little bordering clearing surrounded by timber, milling around with some staring our way.
Laying prone on some dirt in a slightly elevated position, using a spartan bipod, and my bino harness as a rear bag, I lazed my target cow at 302 yards. I dialed the turret 1.2 mils and shot. At 10x I was able to stay in the scope. I saw my impact and her rear legs drop and her slide down a little snowy hill she was on. Without any hesitation, bolt was cycled and another round was put in her lungs. Her front legs were kicking around a bit and her head was up so I move my reticle to center line of her neck and shot. Instant limp.
The bold lines of the reticle and floating center dot made shooting fast and precise. While not as nice as the 1.2 reticle, it is much preferred to a standard duplex or a cluttered x-mas tree. Very intuitive. The glass in the low light was more than adequate, and dare I say good. Happy camper I was.
With Form’s review on my mind, after the 14 hour return trip home, the next weekend I took the rifle out to the desert just to see where it shot; if there was in fact any loss of zero after all this use. I was quail hunting with my wife and kids, so was under a time crunch to get my testing done, then go kill some birds. After adjusting the scope back to zero (it was still at 1.2 from shooting the elk) I shot two three round groups at 100. See pics. Looks good to me, especially being jacked up on coffee with no food, and the pressure of everyone wanting me to hurry the hell up…
Conclusion:
While not an exhaustive test, I am satisfied so far. I need to load more rounds, shoot 10 round groups, take it to distance etc. and I will. But I feel very confident in it with my experience so far. The size, weight, reticle is good and with the abuse it took on this trip and not showing signs of zero shift, if this trend continues, I will be getting another for sure.
Background:
At the end of summer I decided to put together a light weight bolt rifle for an upcoming CO cow elk hunt. I usually hunt with AR based systems in AZ, but have also hunted with a semi-custom tikka in 30-06 with a Maven 1.2 (see 1st pic). I did not want to bring an AR on this trip nor use my current tikka as my primary because it is just shy of 10lbs.
As a tikka fan (before I even joined this forum) I quickly went into action since my time to complete the build by the hunt was very limited. I grabbed a SS super light in 6.5CM, had the barrel chopped to 16” and threaded. Sent the bolt to Kampfeld for fluting, added an OMR handle/knob, and put the rifle into a Stockys stock I bought on the classifieds here (see pic)
Optic choice:
I am a fan of the Maven 1.2 and had a second one to use for this rifle, but I wanted something lighter, more compact, that would sit lower on the rifle since I am using a sporter style stock. I read Form’s review of the Mk4HD 2.5-10 and his not so well findings, but decided to take a risk and bought one with the illuminated FFP TMR.
I mounted the scope in UM low tikka rings, and that worked out great, having the optic very low and just high enough to allow for an AADland flip up cap.
Initial impressions were all positive. Scope met all the criteria I had from a form-factor standpoint. Glass is pretty damn good, reticle is totally useable, etc. For a lightweight rifle (7.5lbs complete with optic and can) that I intended to shoot 500 yards and in, it fit.
Mounting:
As mentioned I used UM low tikka rings. These rings are the best rings I have used. Just robust as can be when pinned and using the tikka dovetail. I see zero reason to ever use a pic rail again on a tikka. I followed the proper mounting protocol of first checking alignment, then degrease, thread locker and proper torque, then nail polish the bolt heads and paint pen witness marks. However, I have always done one more step, which is the use of rosin inside the rings, both bottom and top, for added friction. This is an old school trick I adopted after having continual slippage issues on a big bore AR project.
Experience/real world use:
By the time I had the rifle put together, I was running super short on time (as in two weekends before I leave) to do load dev, field testing etc. I whipped up a quick load ladder with Staball 6.5 and 130gr TMK. Every charge shot great right out of the brand new barrel. I don’t do barrel break in, never believed in it, even before Form. There is no logic behind it. I ended up choosing the 45.5gr load at 2750fps, loaded up 50, hit the desert the Sunday before I left and made final adjustments put 4 shots into the bulls. (Pic; shots with sticks in them was some factory Hornady ammo I tried for fun and it sucked, with super high ES)
I did not follow the 10-shot group best practices in this case. Time and resource short, as I would not have time to make more ammo.
I also did not have time to validate dope properly, instead I lazed a rock at 480, dialed and smoked it, then called it good.
My other tikka accompanied me for the trip as my back up rifle. That rifle has been thoroughly vetted, shot to 1k, and has three kills on it. I have a lot of time/rounds on it.
The mk4HD equipped rifle spent 14 hours in a trailer for the drive there. I arrived one day before opener, so I hit the local range real quick. It was packed, so I got in and fired 5 shots at 100yds. Each shot landed exactly where I broke the shot, not the best shooting cause I was strung out and had braked rifles going off around me. But shots in bulls or just out of. Good to go.
I spent 9 days in the bush, and did over 800 miles in a jeep off-roading with the rifle mostly outside of the case bouncing and banging into other crap (see pics of stock banged up and scope/turret cap). The rifle spent MILES a day being carried in hand, slung over shoulder or in the backpack carrier.
It was snowed on, rained on and while not dropped directly, it took a nice slam when I ate shit in the snow and banged up my knee.
After many elk sightings, a couple unsuccessful stalks, I ambushed a small herd who were crossing a field about 20 mins before sundown. They all stopped in this little bordering clearing surrounded by timber, milling around with some staring our way.
Laying prone on some dirt in a slightly elevated position, using a spartan bipod, and my bino harness as a rear bag, I lazed my target cow at 302 yards. I dialed the turret 1.2 mils and shot. At 10x I was able to stay in the scope. I saw my impact and her rear legs drop and her slide down a little snowy hill she was on. Without any hesitation, bolt was cycled and another round was put in her lungs. Her front legs were kicking around a bit and her head was up so I move my reticle to center line of her neck and shot. Instant limp.
The bold lines of the reticle and floating center dot made shooting fast and precise. While not as nice as the 1.2 reticle, it is much preferred to a standard duplex or a cluttered x-mas tree. Very intuitive. The glass in the low light was more than adequate, and dare I say good. Happy camper I was.
With Form’s review on my mind, after the 14 hour return trip home, the next weekend I took the rifle out to the desert just to see where it shot; if there was in fact any loss of zero after all this use. I was quail hunting with my wife and kids, so was under a time crunch to get my testing done, then go kill some birds. After adjusting the scope back to zero (it was still at 1.2 from shooting the elk) I shot two three round groups at 100. See pics. Looks good to me, especially being jacked up on coffee with no food, and the pressure of everyone wanting me to hurry the hell up…
Conclusion:
While not an exhaustive test, I am satisfied so far. I need to load more rounds, shoot 10 round groups, take it to distance etc. and I will. But I feel very confident in it with my experience so far. The size, weight, reticle is good and with the abuse it took on this trip and not showing signs of zero shift, if this trend continues, I will be getting another for sure.
