Is my nocking point too high?

[Yard Candy]

I paper tuned my bow for the first time today. I was good on tail left/right... the only issue was tail low. I raised my tie-on nocking points a little bit at a time until I was getting a single hole in the paper.

So I go back inside and put my bow square on to see what my new nocking point measurement is, and it was off the scale! I had to hold up a measuring tape to the square to extend the measurements.

The bottom of my top nocking point is exactly 1" up, from my rest. Is that OK?! I mean, I was grouping my shots. I was shooting fine. It just seems a little high to me especially because it extends past the bow squares measurements.

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[oldgoat]

That's not normal in my experience. Have you checked the tiller yet? So many things go into arrow flight, finger pressure etc, very few people paper tune stick bows, most group tune or just watch their arrow flight. What bow is it and what grip is it tillered for, split or 3 under?

 

[Beendare]

.ymmv

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[Halleywood]

I think whether you shoot split finger or 3 under and what your bow is tillered for makes a difference. I shoot 3 under and I get best arrow flight at 3/4 - 7/8". It could be my form is off but I can group well and get good arrow flight with fp's and bh's so I dont worry.

 

[Yard Candy]

That's not normal in my experience. Have you checked the tiller yet? So many things go into arrow flight, finger pressure etc, very few people paper tune stick bows, most group tune or just watch their arrow flight. What bow is it and what grip is it tillered for, split or 3 under?

It's a SinoArt 58" Takedown Recurve

Tiller is 0 (6-13/16" both top and bottom)

Brace height is 7-1/8"

I'm shooting 3 under

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[Yard Candy]

Agreed, Something isn't right. Is it a one piece or 3 piece?

I would adjust the bolts on a 3 pice to get tiller even then start with the bottom edge of your top tied in knocking point at 5/8" about square. Thats probably too high but its important to work in one direction so you don't get a false reading.

You could be bouncing arrows off the shelf...try different distances to see if you get the same reading.

My ILF bows at even tiller shoot well for me right around 1/8" over square...ymmv

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It's a SinoArt 58" takedown recurve. It doesn't have a tiller adjustment.

I guess I could be bouncing off the shelf. I didn't really think about that.

I was paper tuning at 2 yards and move back progressively to 6 yards.

Tiller is even currently.

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[Yard Candy]

I think whether you shoot split finger or 3 under and what your bow is tillered for makes a difference. I shoot 3 under and I get best arrow flight at 3/4 - 7/8". It could be my form is off but I can group well and get good arrow flight with fp's and bh's so I dont worry.

It's so interesting how everyone has different feedback. My tiller is even but it's also not adjustable. I'm shooting 3 under.

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[oldgoat]

Even tiller with 3 under isn't odd, I'm not at all familiar with that bow though, but that seems like a very low brace hight height for a typical recurve. You are going to see a lot of different responses because these bows are all different and multiple things can cause similar in appearance problems or the same problem manifesting itself differently! Unless that's the recommended brace height, I'd try it around 8"and see what that does

 

[Yard Candy]

Even tiller with 3 under isn't odd, I'm not at all familiar with that bow though, but that seems like a very low brace hight height for a typical recurve. You are going to see a lot of different responses because these bows are all different and multiple things can cause similar in appearance problems or the same problem manifesting itself differently! Unless that's the recommended brace height, I'd try it around 8"and see what that does

The recommended brace height from the manufacturer is 6.8"-7.8". I arbitrarily picked a number that would be in the middle somewhere since I didn't know where to start, and have just left it there.

I can try increasing the brace height. Basic geometry has me guessing that by increasing the brace height I would need to lower the nock point to keep "straight" shooting arrow?

FYI I recorded some "super slow-mo" this evening at ~10' and with my current setup (the 1" high nock point) the arrow is indeed coming off the bow and flying in a perfectly straight line.

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[Brando']

You need to shoot field points and broad heads together to see how they group. In my opinion this is the easiest way to tune a traditional bow. There is just too much user error involved when you paper tune and bare shaft tune.

Basic Tuning

For our first entry here I'm going to put up a document about basic bow tuning. Later I will also add some more advanced information. This one is long, but well worth the read. Bow Tuning By O.L. Adcock Before we jump into this, what I'm about to say and recommend is contrary to what you'll...

www.fenderarchery.com

Just follow these instructions and don't question it; it's right. I simply cut out the bare shaft section because I have poor shooting form and bare shafting is essentially useless for me.

Good luck.

 

[Btaylor]

You need to shoot field points and broad heads together to see how they group. In my opinion this is the easiest way to tune a traditional bow. There is just too much user error involved when you paper tune and bare shaft tune.

Basic Tuning

For our first entry here I'm going to put up a document about basic bow tuning. Later I will also add some more advanced information. This one is long, but well worth the read. Bow Tuning By O.L. Adcock Before we jump into this, what I'm about to say and recommend is contrary to what you'll...

www.fenderarchery.com

Just follow these instructions and don't question it; it's right. I simply cut out the bare shaft section because I have poor shooting form and bare shafting is essentially useless for me.

Good luck.

Curious what broadhead you use for tuning?

 

[bjfoxhoven]

Lots of things will affect where the nock point needs to be. Simple form can have a dramatic change in arrow flight. Difference in finger pressure will adjust it quite a bit. Grip pressure, release/follow through also. For how you are shooting, the bow set up, it must need it there.

It is quite high though, and the bow may be a little less efficient because of it. But if you have good arrow flight; then don’t stress over it.

If you want to see if you could change it, you could go to a little negative tiller, adjust finger pressure a bit on your hook to what is recommended (I just do what’s comfortable), or vary your grip slightly. But I wouldn’t do this stuff if arrow flight, tune, noise and vibration you are happy with.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

is there a formula for knocking point? or is it preference or is a part of tuning? The bows I've had in the past have all come with knocking points and when I have installed them on new strings I always just measured and put them in the same place. Now I have a few new bows on the way, I want to learn more.

 

[ozyclint]

Curious what broadhead you use for tuning?

biggest, widest 2 blade you can find. Then drop back to what ever you prefer and confirm tune.

 

[oldgoat]

is there a formula for knocking point? or is it preference or is a part of tuning? The bows I've had in the past have all come with knocking points and when I have installed them on new strings I always just measured and put them in the same place. Now I have a few new bows on the way, I want to learn more.

There's no formula I know of, it's generally 5/8" inch on virtually every bow I've tuned, it's a matter of that's where it will need to be because of the way bows are tillered, you may see a little variation from there and that's why you tune. This isn't something I figured out on my own, learned it from the experts at rmsgear watching them setting up hundreds of bows over the years and it's always rang true on bows I set up too.

 

[Btaylor]

biggest, widest 2 blade you can find. Then drop back to what ever you prefer and confirm tune.

Yep, I was just curious what head he used.

 

[oldgoat]

Yep, I was just curious what head he used.

I don't know what he used, but if you can get your hands on some glue on Simmons safaris, you could various weight broadhead adapters to make a wide range of heads to tune with, that fit that bill

 

[Btaylor]

I don't know what he used, but if you can get your hands on some glue on Simmons safaris, you could various weight broadhead adapters to make a wide range of heads to tune with, that fit that bill

I was thinking the glue on tree shark that's a shade over 2" wide. Get that one tuned up and you should be golden. Any of those Simmons head should fit the bill though.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

There's no formula I know of, it's generally 5/8" inch on virtually every bow I've tuned, it's a matter of that's where it will need to be because of the way bows are tillered, you may see a little variation from there and that's why you tune. This isn't something I figured out on my own, learned it from the experts at rmsgear watching them setting up hundreds of bows over the years and it's always rang true on bows I set up too.

Thanks, so 5/8th inch on that measuring device thing?

 

[Rob5589]

Thanks, so 5/8th inch on that measuring device thing?

Yep, on that measuring device thing (bow square)