Grip question

[jm1607]

Was debating about moving from the standard wooden grips to side plates on my Spyder Turbo..

How will the added draw length effect me? Will it change my anchor point?

 

[justin davis]

I don't think it will change your anchor. Maybe a touch.

I prefer the one piece grips on Hoyt's. But everyone is different.

 

[charvey9]

If anything, you may need to reduce your draw length to maintain same anchor. You are not changing the distance the string travels from rest to full draw by switching to side plates. You are changing how deep your bow hand rests in the grip by about 1/4". This makes it "feel" like your draw length is slightly longer, but does not actually change your draw length or any other specs on the bow as far as performance is concerned.

I was right on the bubble with a 29" draw and stock Hoyt grips. When I switched to side plates I went down to a 28.5" draw, but like the way the bow feels in my hand better with the plates.

 

[MattB]

As stated, it will add ~ 1/4" to your draw length, which may or may not matter. If you haven't properly adjusted your release to get the trigger engagement correct, you might get all you need there.

One other thing to consider is just shooting without either the grips or side plates. Personally, I see no use at all for side plates and just shoot of the riser.

 

[charvey9]

As stated, it will add ~ 1/4" to your draw length, which may or may not matter. If you haven't properly adjusted your release to get the trigger engagement correct, you might get all you need there.

One other thing to consider is just shooting without either the grips or side plates. Personally, I see no use at all for side plates and just shoot of the riser.

Because they look awesome!

 

[jmez]

I shoot mine off the riser. Hoyt riser is the best grip out there IMO. Guys using side plates, I assume these are basically for looks?

 

[Where's Bruce?]

Nuther Hoyt fan, totally dead in the hand.

View attachment 20410

 

[boom]

As stated, it will add ~ 1/4" to your draw length, which may or may not matter. If you haven't properly adjusted your release to get the trigger engagement correct, you might get all you need there.

One other thing to consider is just shooting without either the grips or side plates. Personally, I see no use at all for side plates and just shoot of the riser.

What about running a super short d-loop instead if messing with the release?

 

[MattB]

What about running a super short d-loop instead if messing with the release?

I am of the opinion there is a "correct" length for both the loop and the release (draw length even moreso) in terms of how those aspects affect your anchor point and facial references, and I bring up the release because IMO most bowhunters do not have their releases adjusted correctly and could both benefit from doing so from a shooting form-perspective. Many bowhunters have their releases set so they engage the trigger with the tip segment of their finger (like a rifle) whereas it should properly be engaged with the middle segment to reduce the propensity to punch rather than using back tension. With that, if the release is set "wrong" and making it right will improve the anchor point, I would do that.

With respect to shooting a loop shorter than optimal, by my way of thinking you wouldn't have room to fit the release hook/jaws as well as the arrow nock if you shortened up the loop. If you have room to decrease the loop while still maintaining adequate space for both, I would submit you may be running your loop too long. Too long a loop (depending on the bow's ATA), can result in the loss of facial references or dipping one's head to forward to gain references which degrades form.

 

[RosinBag]

Regarding the loop, if you have a very short loop you can induce torque on the string if your anchor or hand turns slightly. A longer loop will allow you to turn your hand to your desired anchor without that affecting the torque being applied to the string. The loops length will allow the loop itself to turn, but not turn it pinch the string or arrow.

 

[boom]

Thanks. I've seen some long loops. I like some clearance between jaws and nock. But not a lot.

Thanks. I love the learning process.

 

[boom]

Regarding the loop, if you have a very short loop you can induce torque on the string if your anchor or hand turns slightly. A longer loop will allow you to turn your hand to your desired anchor without that affecting the torque being applied to the string. The loops length will allow the loop itself to turn, but not turn it pinch the string or arrow.

So guys that shoot loop less really have to watch this I suppose. Thanks!

 

[RosinBag]

You can actually look for it and see if torque is being applied to the arrow or string.

 

[wapitibob]

You set your bows draw length to fit your face and adjust the loop length to set your draw arm position with a given release. If your draw length and loop are correct with the grip on, adjust the bows length when you take it off. A few twists of the string will put you right where you need to be.

 

[MattB]

Regarding the loop, if you have a very short loop you can induce torque on the string if your anchor or hand turns slightly. A longer loop will allow you to turn your hand to your desired anchor without that affecting the torque being applied to the string. The loops length will allow the loop itself to turn, but not turn it pinch the string or arrow.

I presume that is more an issue with a handheld hinge or thumb trigger-style release? Most of the contemporary wrist strap/caliper-style releases have a mechanism built into the release between the wrist strap and head to mitigate that effect.

 

[RosinBag]

Yes Matt, I shoot a Stan Shootoff. The hand held a are more problematic in this regard.